This cute pullover dog sweater is ideal for wearing on those cold winter walks. It has a snug easy fit and is comfy enough for your dog to sleep in. Knitted with 4mm needles and double knit yarn, the dog jumper is a good pattern for beginner knitters as well as the more experienced.
This free knitting pattern is a good project to keep you busy during the cold nights, with three sizes available. You can knit with the stripes or without, using one block colour.
Your dog is going to love his/her new knitted sweater!
50 (100:100g) any double knitting (dk) yarn, colour (yarn A)
50 (100:100g) any double knitting (dk) yarn, colour (yarn B)
50 (100:100g) any double knitting (dk) yarn, colour (yarn c)
50 (100:100g) any double knitting (dk) yarn, colour (yarn D)
Pair 4mm knitting needles
Crochet hook 4mm
Length (excluding collar) – small 29cm / medium 34cm / large 44cm
(Small-12” Medium- 14” Large- 17.5”inches)
Chest (at widest part) – small 35cm / medium 41cm / large 44cm
(Small – 14” Medium – 16” Large – 17.5” inches)
Knitted Dog Sweater Pattern
Start at collar edge.
Using 4mm needles and yarn A, cast on 68 (80:88) sts.
Row 1: (RS of collar, ws of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: (ws of collar, rs of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Repeating 1st and 2nd rows form 1x1 rib.
Cont in rib until collar measures 11 (11.5:11.5) cm (or 4.3” / 4.5”:4.5”)inches ending with rs of collar facing for next row.
Next row (rs of collar, ws of coat) rib 11 (15:17), m1k, rib to end. 69 (81:89) sts
Divide for back and belly
Row 1: (rs of coat) k57 (65:71) sts for back of sweater, and work on these stitches only. Leave rem 12 (16:18) sts on a holder for belly.
Row 2: purl
Row 3: (lead hole row) (rs) k26 (30:32), k1, sl 1, pass k1 over sl 1, * sl 1, pass next st on RHN over the stitch just slipped; rep from * 4 (4:6) times. Slip last st on RHN back to lhn. Turn (ws facing). Cast on 6 (6:8) sts. Cast on 1 more stitch bringing yarn between the needles from back to front before putting the stitch onto lhn. Turn (rs facing). K1 and pass next st on rhn over the k1 just worked. Knit to end. 57 (65:71) sts.
Row 4: purl
Break yarn A and join yarn b.
Next row (rs) knit
Next row (ws) purl
Repeating last 2 rows forms stocking stitch.
Work 2 more rows in st-st
Break yarn b and join yarn c
Beg with a knit row work 4 rows st-st
Break yarn c and join yarn d
Beg with a knit row work 4 rows in st st
Breaking and joining yarns as required, cont. in st-st working the stripe sequence
4 rows yarn A
4 rows yarn b
4 rows yarn c
4 rows yarn d
Until back of coat measures
Approx. 26 (31:41) cm or 10” (12”/ 16”)inches (from start of st-st, ending after a 4th row of a stripe and rs facing for next row.
Break current yarn and join yarn a.
Row 1: (rs) knit
Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1
Row 3: k1, *p1, k1: rep from * to end
2nd and 3rd rows form 1 x 1 rib.
Cont in rib until rib measures 3cm,or 2” inches ending with rs facing for next row.
Cast off in rib.
Pm at each end of back between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows, between 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows and between 45th and 46th (54th and 55th: 60th and 61st) rows.
Sew ends not required for seaming into their own colour.
With rs facing, join yarn c to 12 (16:18) sts left on a holder.
Beg with a knit row work 6 rows st-st
Row 7: (rs) k1, m1k, knit to last 1 st, m1k, k1. 14 (18:20) sts.
Work 2 rows st-st
Row 10: (ws) p1, m1p, purl to last st, m1p, p1. 16 (20:22) sts.
Cont in st-st, inc 1 st at each end of 13th, 16th, 19th, 23rd, 27th and 31st rows. 28 (32:34) sts
Cont in st-st until the 36th (46th: 52nd) row has been completed from start of st-st (belly measures approximately 12 (15:17) cm, or 5”(6:7) inches ending with rs facing for next row.
Break yarn c and join yarn a
Row1: (rs) knit
Row 2: *k1, p1: rep from * to end
Repeating 2nd row forms 1x1 rib
Cont in rib until rib measures 3 cm or 2 : inches ending with RS facing for next row. Cast off in rib.
Pm at each end of belly between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
Lead hole edging.
Using a 4mm crochet hook and yarn a, with rs facing, work1 round of edging all round lead hole as follows:
Inserting hook into center of each stitch, work 1 dc into each cast off stitch of hole, work 1 dc at side edge of hole, work 1 dc into each cast –on stitch of hole, work 1 dc between at side edge of hole, 1 sl-st into first-stitch round. Fasten off.
Using 4mm crochet hook and yarn a, with rs facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
Inserting hook into center of row edge stitch, work 1 sl-st into each row edge stitch of the 3cm/2 inches of rib, and work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4 row edge stitches of the st-st stripes. The collar does not have a crochet edging.
Using a 4mm crochet hook and yarn c, with rs facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
Inserting hook into center of row edge stitch, work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4 row edge stitches of the st-St. the rib and the collar do not have crochet edging.
Making up the sweater
Pin the sweater to the measurements given, opening out the rib of the collar and at the tail and belly. Press following the instructions on the skein/ball band, or cover with damp cloths and leave until dry.
Stocking stitch has a natural tendency to curl towards the wrong side at the sides. Adding the crochet edging and blocking the sweater as instructed will help to minimize this but some yarns will maintain the curl more than others.
With rs of collar (ws of sweater) facing, using mattress stitch and yarn a, join the collar seam for 5.5 (6:6) cm or 2.1”(2.5:2.5) inches taking one stitch into the seam at each side so that the 1x1 rib is continuous all the way round. Reverse the sweater.
With rs of sweater (ws of collar) facing, using mattress stitch and yarn a, continue to join the collar seam to the end of the 1x1 rib, again taking one stitch into the seam at each side. Fasten off yarn a.
Using mattress stitch and yarn c, join the belly and back seam from the top of the 1x1 rib of the collar to the marker between the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows (joining the 9th (9th and 12th) rows ends the seam), taking the crochet edging into seam at each side. Fasten off yarn c.
Leave the seam open between the markers at the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows. Using mattress stitch and yarn c, join the belly and back seam, starting at the markers at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows (joining the 35th(43rd: 50th) rows starts the seam) and ending at the last row of the belly rib, matching the belly to the back row for row. Take the crochet edging into the seam at each side along the stocking stitch and half a stitch at the side edge for the belly rib.
Join the other side edge of the belly to the other side edge of the back to match.
Fold collar in half to rs of sweater.
Alt – alternate
Beg – beginning
Cont – continue
Dec – decrease by knitting the next 2 stitches together
Foll – following
Inc – increase by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch
K – knit
Lhn – left hand needle
M1 – make stitch by picking up yarn before next stitch and knitting into the back of made loop.
P – purl
Rem – remaining
Rhn – right hand needle
S1 – slip next stitch
Stockinette (stocking stitch) st-st – row 1 knit, row 2 purl
Sts – stitches
Rs – right side
Ws – wrong side
For more knitted dog sweater patterns take a look at the knitting page here:
What are you making this week? Are you going to make your dog a sweater? Let us know in the comments below! xoxo