Free Kids Elf Christmas Sweater Knitting Pattern (Sizes 2–10 Years)

If you’ve been looking for a cute kids’ Christmas sweater knitting pattern to go with your elf hat projects, this one’s for you.

This child’s elf sweater is a cozy raglan jumper with green ribbing and white-and-red stripes, designed to match my Striped Elf Hat/Elf Beanie pattern.

It’s knit flat in four pieces and seamed, with a comfy folded neckband that feels soft and non-scratchy for little necks.

The pattern is worked in worsted/aran-weight yarn (I used Alize Lanagold Classic) on 6 mm (US 10) needles, and includes five children’s sizes: 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 years – perfect for siblings, cousins, or matching Christmas morning photos.

Please scroll down to view the free pattern or grab your ad-free printable PDF in my shop here.

Before You Get Started

A few helpful notes before you cast on:

• Skill level: Confident beginner / easy–intermediate.
  You’ll need to know how to knit, purl, work simple decreases (ssk, k2tog), and sew seams.
• Construction: The sweater is worked flat in pieces – Back, Front, and two Sleeves – and then seamed as a classic raglan. The neckband is picked up and knit at the end and folded over for a neat finish.
• Fit & ease: The sweater is designed with approx. 3–4″ / 7.5–10 cm of positive ease so it’s roomy enough to wear over a T-shirt or pyjamas. If in doubt between sizes, I’d size up – kids grow fast!
• Stripes: Ribbing is worked in green, then the body and sleeves both start with white, followed by 6 rows white / 6 rows red in stocking stitch. You can easily swap to other festive colours (think candy cane pinks or icy blues).
• Swatching: I know, I know… but do knit a quick gauge swatch. The pattern is written for 15 sts and 22 rows = 10 × 10 cm / 4″ × 4″ in stocking stitch with 6 mm needles. If your gauge is very different, your sweater might come out too tight or too huge.

Materials Needed

Yarn

Yarn such as Alize Lanagold Classic (100 g ≈ 240 m / 262 yds), or any similar yarn that gets you to gauge.

Yarn Substitute: Wool of The Andes Bulky Yarn

You’ll need three colours:

• Color A – Green: for ribbing (hem, cuffs, neck)
• Color B – Red: for stripes
• Color C – White/Cream: for stripes

Approximate total yardage (all colours combined):

• Size 2 (1–2 yrs): ~700 yds / 640 m (≈ 3 × 100 g balls)
• Size 4 (3–4 yrs): ~800 yds / 730 m (≈ 4 × 100 g balls)
• Size 6 (5–6 yrs): ~900 yds / 820 m (≈ 4 × 100 g balls)
• Size 8 (7–8 yrs): ~950 yds / 870 m (≈ 4 × 100 g balls)
• Size 10 (9–10 yrs): ~1,075 yds / 980 m (≈ 5 × 100 g balls)

Colour balance guide:

• Red and white are used in roughly equal amounts for the stripes.
• Green is only for ribbing – one ball of green is usually enough for all sizes, with the rest split between red and white.

Needles

• 6 mm (US 10) straight needles or circulars used flat (for Back, Front, Sleeves)
• 6 mm (US 10) circular needle, 40 cm / 16″ length (for neckband)
• Or the size needed to obtain the gauge.

Notions

• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends
• Stitch markers (optional, for raglan edges and measuring length)
• Measuring tape and scissors

Size Info

The pattern is written in US children’s sizes 2 (4, 6, 8, 10).

Ages are approximate – always go by body measurements when you can.

All measurements are finished garment measurements, with the sweater lying flat.

Size	Approx age	Finished chest	Back length (hem to neck)	Sleeve length to underarm*
2	1–2 yrs	~24.5″ / 62 cm	~13″ / 33 cm	~8″ / 20 cm
4	3–4 yrs	~26.5″ / 67 cm	~14″ / 35.5 cm	~9″ / 23 cm
6	5–6 yrs	~28.8″ / 73 cm	~15″ / 38 cm	~10″ / 25.5 cm
8	7–8 yrs	~30.9″ / 78.5 cm	~16″ / 40.5 cm	~11″ / 28 cm
10	9–10 yrs	~33.1″ / 84 cm	~17″ / 43 cm	~12″ / 30.5 cm

*Sleeve length is measured from the cuff to the underarm seam.

The sweater is designed with positive ease.

If you want a slimmer fit, you can knit a size down (as long as the chest still has a bit of room).

Gauge

• 15 sts and 22 rows = 10 × 10 cm / 4″ × 4″ in stocking stitch (stockinette)
• Using 6 mm needles, after light blocking.
• You must match this gauge for the sizes to come out as written.

Abbreviations

• k – knit
• p – purl
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• kfb – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase 1)
• k2tog – knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• RS – right side
• WS – wrong side
• rep – repeat

Pattern Instructions

Printable PDF: If you prefer to knit from a printable version or like to keep patterns in a folder, you can purchase the ad-free PDF of this elf sweater pattern in my shop.

Notes

• Sweater is worked flat in pieces: Back, Front, Sleeves; then seamed.
• It uses a simple raglan: you cast off a few stitches at the underarm and then decrease at each end of RS rows.
• Ribbing (hem, cuffs, neck) is in Green (A) in 1×1 rib (K1, P1).
• Body stripes: start with White after hem rib, then alternate 6 rows white / 6 rows red in stocking stitch.
• Sleeve stripes: after green cuff, start with White, then alternate 6 rows white / 6 rows red.
• Sizes are given as: 2 (4, 6, 8, 10)
• When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Stripe Pattern

Body (Back & Front) – in stocking stitch:

• With C (White): work 6 rows.
• With B (Red): work 6 rows.

These 12 rows form the stripe pattern. Repeat throughout body.

Sleeves – in stocking stitch:

• With C (White): work 6 rows.
• With B (Red): work 6 rows.

Repeat for sleeve stripes.

Back

With A (Green) and 6 mm/US 10 needles, cast on 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts.

Hem ribbing

Work in 1×1 rib (K1, P1) for 2″ / 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Body

Change to stocking stitch and begin body stripe pattern:

• 6 rows White (C),
• 6 rows Red (B),
• Repeat these 12 rows.

Work straight in stripe pattern until the piece measures: 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)” / 20 (23, 25.5, 28, 30.5) cm from the cast-on edge (including hem), ending after a WS row.

Shape raglan (back) / Underarm shaping

• Next row (RS): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
• Next row (WS): Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

You now have: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) sts.

Raglan shaping

• Next row (RS) – raglan decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (2 sts decreased)
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.

Repeat these 2 rows, keeping the stripes correct, until 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts remain.

When you have 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts left:

Work 1 more WS row purl.

Place the remaining sts onto a stitch holder on the next RS row.

Set Back aside.

Front

Worked almost the same as the Back, with added neck shaping.

With A (Green) and 6 mm/US 10 needles, cast on 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts.

Hem ribbing

Work in 1×1 rib for 2″ / 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Body

Work in stocking stitch and body stripe pattern as for Back, until the Front measures the same length as the Back to the underarm, ending after a WS row.

Shape raglan – lower part (before neck)

Shape underarm exactly as for Back:

• Next row (RS): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
• Next row (WS): Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

You now have: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) sts.

Begin raglan shaping:

• Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.

Repeat these 2 rows until you have: 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts remaining.

Shape neck and continue raglan

We’ll now split for the neck and continue decreasing only at the raglan edges, keeping the neck edges straight.

You have 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts on the needle.

Neck split row (RS)

Work as follows: K1, ssk, K 5 (6, 6, 7, 7), slip next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) sts onto a stitch holder for the front neck, attach a second ball of yarn, K 5 (6, 6, 7, 7), k2tog, K1.

You now have: 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts for the left front, 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) sts on a holder for the centre front neck, 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts for the right front.

This row also worked 1 raglan decrease at each outer edge.

Next row (WS)

With WS facing, using both balls of yarn:

• Purl across first front side,
• Then purl across second front side.

You will now continue to work both front sides at the same time, each with its own ball of yarn.

Continue raglan shaping

From here on:

• On every RS row: decrease only at the outer raglan edge of each front.
• On every WS row: purl all sts.
• Do not decrease at neck edges – they are worked straight in stocking stitch.

Use this shaping:

• Left front (raglan edge at beginning of RS row): K1, ssk, knit to end.
• Right front (raglan edge at end of RS row): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.

Continue in this way, keeping the stripe pattern in sequence, until:

• The front raglan edges are the same length as the Back raglan, and
• You have approximately 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts remaining on each front side.

Next RS row (each side separately):

• Knit across and cast off those remaining sts knitwise for each shoulder.

You now have:

• Front shoulders cast off, 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) sts on a holder at the centre front.

Sleeves

Sleeves are worked flat from cuff to top and seamed.

With A (Green) and 6 mm/US 10 needles, cast on: 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts.

Cuff ribbing

Work in 1×1 rib (K1, P1) for 2″ / 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Sleeve stripes & increases

Change to stocking stitch and begin the sleeve stripe pattern, starting with White (C):

Sleeve stripe pattern:

• 6 rows C (White),
• 6 rows B (Red),
• Repeat.

At the same time, begin shaping the sleeve with increases on Row 1 of the next 5 stripes.

You have 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts after the cuff.

Stripe 1 (Rows 1–6) – White (C)

• Row 1 (RS) – Increase row for all sizes:
• K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. Sts after this row: 24 (26, 28, 30, 32)
• Rows 2–6: Work in stocking stitch.

Stripe 2 (Rows 7–12) – Red (B)

• Row 7 (RS) – Increase row:
• K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. Sts after this row: 26 (28, 30, 32, 34)
• Rows 8–12: Work in stocking stitch.

Stripe 3 (Rows 13–18) – White (C)

• Row 13 (RS) – Increase row:
• K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. Sts after this row: 28 (30, 32, 34, 36)
• Rows 14–18: Work in stocking stitch.

Stripe 4 (Rows 19–24) – Red (B)

• Row 19 (RS) – Increase row:
• K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1. Sts after this row: 30 (32, 34, 36, 38)
• Rows 20–24: Work in stocking stitch.

Stripe 5 (Rows 25–30) – White (C)

• Row 25 (RS) – Increase row:
• K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, K1.
• Sts after this row: 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
• Rows 26–30: Work in stocking stitch.

You now have 32 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts on the needle for the sleeve.

From here, continue in stocking stitch and in the same stripe pattern, without further increases, until the sleeve measures: 8 (9, 10, 11, 12)” / 20 (23, 25.5, 28, 30.5) cm from the cast-on edge (including cuff), ending after a WS row.

Underarm cast-offs (all sizes)

• Next row (RS): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
• Next row (WS): Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

You now have:

• Size 2: 28 sts
• Size 4: 30 sts
• Size 6: 32 sts
• Size 8: 34 sts
• Size 10: 36 sts

Shape Sleeve Raglan / SIZE 2 (1–2 YEARS) ONLY

Raglan shaping – Part 1 (28 sts down to 16 sts, via 18 sts)

Work the following 4-row set, keeping the stripe pattern correct:

• Row 1 (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (–2 sts)
• Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts.
• Row 3 (RS – plain): Knit all sts (no decreases).
• Row 4 (WS): Purl all sts.
• Repeat Rows 1–4 a further 4 times

(so you have worked this 4-row set 5 times in total).

After these 5 decrease rows, you will have 18 sts.

Then: Work Rows 1–4 once more (a 6th time).

On Row 1 of this 6th repeat you decrease again: 18 → 16 sts.

Complete Rows 2–4 to keep the stripe pattern and row count correct.

At the end of this section you have: 16 sts remaining.

Raglan shaping – Part 2 (from 16 sts to 8 sts)

From 16 sts, work as follows:

• Next row (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. → 14 sts
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. → 12 sts
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. → 10 sts
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• Next row (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. → 8 sts
• Next row (WS): Purl all sts.
• On the following RS row: Cast off all 8 sts knitwise.

Shape Sleeve Raglan / SIZES 4 (6, 8, 10) ONLY

For larger sizes, use the same 4-row set to slow the shaping at first, then switch to a simple 2-row decrease set.

4-row set (slower shaping):

• Row 1 (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (–2 sts)
• Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts.
• Row 3 (RS – plain): Knit all sts (no decreases).
• Row 4 (WS): Purl all sts.

2-row set (faster shaping):

• Row 1 (RS – decrease row): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (–2 sts)
• Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts.

You start this section with:

• Size 4: 30 sts
• Size 6: 32 sts
• Size 8: 34 sts
• Size 10: 36 sts

How many times per size

Size 4 (30 sts):

• Work the 4-row set 5 times,
• then work the 2-row set 6 times.
• You’ll end with 8 sts.

Size 6 (32 sts):

• Work the 4-row set 6 times,
• then work the 2-row set 5 times.
• You’ll end with 10 sts.

Size 8 (34 sts):

• Work the 4-row set 6 times,
• then work the 2-row set 6 times.
• You’ll end with 10 sts.

Size 10 (36 sts):

• Work the 4-row set 7 times,
• then work the 2-row set 5 times.
• You’ll end with 12 sts.

As you work, check the length of the raglan edge (from the underarm cast-offs to the top of the sleeve) against the Back:

• If you reach the correct raglan length but still have more stitches than the target for your size, work one or two extra 2-row sets (decrease RS/purl WS) until you reach the stitch count.
• If you reach the target stitch count but the raglan edge is slightly shorter than the Back, work 1–2 extra plain RS/WS rows (no decreases) before casting off.

When:

• The sleeve raglan length matches the Back raglan, and
• You have roughly the target number of sts for your size,

then:

• Work 1 more WS row purl,
• On the next RS row, cast off all remaining sts knitwise.

Finishing

Block pieces (optional but nice): Gently block all pieces to measurements, taking care not to overstretch the ribbing. Let dry flat.

Weave in all ends on the WS, tidy up any jogs in the stripes if needed.

Step 1:

Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 2:

Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 3 – Neckband Stitches

Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you. Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.

Using A (Green) and 6 mm/US 10 needles:

With the RS of the work facing you, knit across the sts on the stitch holders, and pick up and knit stitches across the remaining neck and shoulder sections, totaling around 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts around the neck.

The exact number isn’t critical; it just must sit smoothly and stretch easily over the head. Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 4 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.

Bind off loosely (go up a needle size for a looser bind off).

Step 4:

Join the remaining back raglan seam and continue up the neck ribbing (reversing the seam for the remaining half, so it looks neat when turned over).

Step 5:

Fold neck ribbing in half to WS and catch down loosely on the WS. This creates a folded-over collar (crew neck) with a neat edge.

Step 6:

Join the side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.

Then you can address any remaining loose ends.

Could you share your work with us?

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I’d love to see your work.

Happy Knitting!

FAQ

Q: What skill level is this sweater pattern?

A: I’d call it confident beginner / easy–intermediate.

If you’ve knit a scarf or hat and are ready to try shaping and seaming, this is a great next step.

You’ll practice increases, decreases, and raglan construction, but all in simple stocking stitch.

Q: Can I knit this sweater in the round instead of flat?

A: This pattern is written to be worked flat in pieces and seamed, which gives the sweater nice structure and makes the raglan shaping very readable.

An experienced knitter could convert it to work in the round (bottom up, joining sleeves to the body for the yoke), but that would mean reworking the instructions and stitch counts, especially around the neck shaping.

Q: Can I change the length of the body or sleeves?

A: Definitely. To make the body longer or shorter, simply work more or fewer rows before you begin the raglan shaping.

For the sleeves, work more or fewer rows in the stripe pattern after you finish the increases and before you start the sleeve raglan shaping.

Just remember to keep your stripes in sequence.

Q: Can I use a different yarn?

A: Yes – any worsted/aran-weight yarn that gets you to gauge (15 sts x 22 rows = 10 cm / 4″) will work.

Choose something soft and washable for kids (wool blends, superwash, or acrylic/wool mixes are ideal).

If your gauge is different, you may need to adjust stitch counts and lengths.

Q: Is the neck stretchy enough to go over a child’s head?

A: Yes. The neck is worked in 1×1 rib in green, with a generous stitch count and a loose bind-off, then folded over for a soft, cosy collar.

As long as you don’t bind off too tightly, it should go over the head comfortably.

Q: Where can I get the matching elf hat pattern?

A: You can find the coordinating Striped Elf Hat / Elf Beanie knitting pattern here: Free Elf Hat Knitting Pattern – Striped Christmas Hat In 7 Sizes

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