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Linen Stitch Knitting Tutorial (Free Printable)

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The linen stitch is a simple yet stunning technique that creates a dense, woven fabric using slipped stitches.

It’s ideal for projects that need structure and texture — from dishcloths to placemats, scarves, and blankets.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to knit linen stitch both flat and in the round, with detailed instructions and a free printable dishcloth pattern to practice your skills.

How to knit the linen stitch

Before You Begin

Here are a few helpful things to know about linen stitch:

  • The stitch creates a firm, flat fabric that doesn’t curl, making it ideal for edges and home decor.
  • It’s known for its woven texture and often compared to seed stitch or moss stitch on the wrong side.
  • You can knit it flat or in the round.
  • It works well in solid or striped colors and is perfect for beginners wanting to experiment with slipped stitches.

Materials & Tools

Yarn

  • 1 x ball of Lilly Sugar’n Cream Cotton yarn
    (2.5 oz / 70.9 g / 120 yds / 109 m)
    → Makes two dishcloths
  • OR 1 x 50g ball of DK/light worsted or worsted/aran weight yarn (cotton preferred)

Needles

Notions

Size + Gauge

  • Gauge: 17 sts x 30 rows = 4×4″ / 10×10 cm in pattern
  • Finished Size: 8×8″ / 20×20 cm

How To Knit The Linen Stitch

The linen stitch is mostly created by slipping stitches, resulting in a firm, almost woven-like structure.

Flat (Back and Forth on Straight Needles)

You can cast on an even or odd number of stitches.

Below are both versions:

Even Number of Stitches

  • Row 1 (RS): K1, SL1 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat to end
  • Row 2 (WS): P1, SL1 purlwise with yarn in back; repeat to end

Odd Number of Stitches

  • Row 1 (RS): SL1 purlwise, K1, yarn to front, SL1 purlwise, yarn to back, repeat to end
  • Row 2 (WS): P1, yarn to back, SL1 purlwise, yarn to front, repeat to last stitch, P1

Repeat these 2 rows until your project reaches the desired length.

In the Round (On Circular Needles)

Always worked with the right side facing.

  • Round 1: K1, SL1 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat around
  • Round 2: SL1 purlwise with yarn in front, K1; repeat around

Tip: The slipped stitches with floating yarns create the signature woven look.

Pattern Instructions: Linen Stitch Dishcloth

Skill Level: Beginner

This pattern is great for beginners learning to slip stitches and maintain tension.

Notes

  • Cast on an odd number of stitches
  • Always slip stitches purlwise

Dishcloth Pattern

Cast On: 37 stitches.

Then work the following 2-row repeat:

  • Row 1 (RS): SL1 purlwise, K1, yarn to front, SL1 purlwise, yarn to back, repeat to end
  • Row 2 (WS): P1, yarn to back, SL1 purlwise, yarn to front, repeat to last stitch, P1

Repeat Rows 1–2 until your piece measures 8 inches / 20 cm.

Bind off and weave in ends.

Video Tutorial

Watch the video tutorial below to learn how to knit the linen stitch step-by-step.

This easy-to-follow guide will help you master the stitch’s woven texture, making it perfect for scarves, blankets, and more.

FAQs & Tips

→ Does linen stitch use more yarn?
Yes. Due to the slipped stitches and floats, it consumes more yarn per inch than stockinette or garter.

→ Can I change colors in linen stitch?
Absolutely! Change colors on every odd-numbered row for a two-color pattern. Try striping or blocks for different effects.

→ What does it look like on the back?
The reverse side resembles seed stitch, offering a lovely texture even on the “wrong” side.

Linen Stitch

Free Printable

Want to print and stitch offline?

Grab the free printable version of this linen stitch dishcloth pattern to keep beside your yarn basket or take on the go.

Yield: A dishcloth

Linen Stitch Knitting Tutorial

Linen Stitch

Learn how to knit the linen stitch with this easy step-by-step tutorial and free pattern.

Create a beautiful textured dishcloth using just knit, slip, and purl stitches—perfect for beginners.

Prep Time 30 minutes
Active Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Additional Time 30 minutes
Total Time 2 hours 30 minutes
Difficulty Basic/Beginner
Estimated Cost $10

Materials

  • 1 x ball of Lilly Sugar’n Cream Cotton yarn.
  • This yarn is 2.5 oz/70.9 g/120 yds/109 m.
  • You can make 2 dishcloths with this amount of cotton yarn.
  • Or – 1 x 50g ball of cotton yarn suitable for needle size = 4.5 mm (US 7) – check the yarn ball band for this info.
  • Any DK weight/light worsted/8 ply yarn or Aran/worsted/10 ply yarn.
  • I would recommend using cotton.

Tools

  • 4.5 mm (US 7) Knitting needles
  • Tape measure
  • Darning needle/yarn needle
  • Scissors

Instructions

Dishcloth Pattern

  • Cast on an odd number of stitches.
  • When you slip stitches, slip purlwise (with the needle in front of the slip stitch – not behind).

Cast on 37 sts.

Now you will start the 2-row repeat pattern:

  1. Row 1 (RS) – SL1 (purlwise), *K1, bring yarn to the front – SL1 (purlwise), bring yarn to the back, rep from * to the end of the row. Turn.
  2. Row 2 (WS) – *P1, bring yarn to the back, SL1 (purlwise), bring the yarn to the front, rep from * to the last st, P1. Turn.

Rep rows 1-2 until the piece measures 20 cm/8 inches from the cast-on edge.

Cast off.

Weave in all loose ends.

Notes

Size Info

Gauge – 17 sts x 30 rows = 4×4 inches/10×10 cm in the pattern.

Size – 20×20 cm/8×8 inches.

Abbreviations

  • CO – Cast on
  • Cont – Continue
  • K – Knit
  • P – Purl
  • SL1 – Slip one stitch
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)
  • Rep – Repeat
  • RS – Right side
  • WS – Wrong side

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Instagram

© Louise Bollanos
Project Type: Knitting / Category: Knitting Stitch Patterns

More Dishcloth Knitting Patterns

Looking for more patterns to practice your skills? Try these next:

Crocheter? Try the Linen Stitch Crochet Tutorial

Could you share your work with us?

I’d love to see your finished dishcloths!

Tag @handylittleme or use #handylittleme on Instagram.

Join the Handy Little Me Facebook Group and share your photos with other makers!

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6 Comments

  1. Hi! What difference does it make casting on an even or odd amount for the linen stitch? Is there any difference? I find it easier to not mess up when casting an even amount and can’t tell any difference visually.

    Reply

    1. Hello Lisa,
      Casting on an even number of stitches or an odd number can alter the appearance of the stitch pattern.
      Even Number of Cast-On Stitches: When working the Linen Stitch back and forth in rows with an even number of stitches, you’ll typically start each row with the same sequence (e.g., k1, slip 1 with yarn in front), ending with a knit stitch. This creates a consistent pattern on both sides, making it essentially reversible.
      Odd Number of Cast-On Stitches: With an odd number of stitches, each row starts and ends with a knit stitch, but the sequence within the row alternates between rows. For example, if you start Row 1 with a knit stitch followed by slip 1 with yarn in front, k1, you’ll end with a slipped stitch. On the return row, to maintain the pattern, you’ll start with a knit stitch but then immediately slip the next stitch, creating an alternating pattern. This can make the two sides of the work look slightly different, as the edges may have a more staggered appearance.
      I hope that helps,
      Louise

      Reply

        1. Hello Lisa,
          It depends on the pattern…but I prefer casting on an odd number of stitches.
          Happy knitting!
          Louise

          Reply

  2. This is a great tutorial, thank you! I want to make a jacket using this stitch so I’ve done 3 sample squares in different yarns to get the feel of it. The problem is that one side of each square (always the side at the end of the knit row/start of the purl row) is longer than the other side. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong… Have you found this to be a problem at all? Any ideas on how to prevent this? Thanks 🙂

    Reply

    1. Hi Jean,

      Thank you so much — I’m really glad you enjoyed the tutorial! 😊 It’s wonderful that you’re planning to use the linen stitch for a jacket — such a beautiful, textured choice, and it sounds like your swatching process is already off to a great start.

      What you’re describing — where one edge of your sample appears longer than the other — can sometimes happen with linen stitch, especially when there’s uneven tension between the knit and slipped stitches. It’s quite common, and you’re definitely not alone!

      Here are a few tips that might help:

      Check your tension: Try to keep your tension consistent between rows, especially on the edge where you transition from knit to purl. Sometimes pulling slightly tighter on the yarn when slipping stitches can help even things out.

      Use a smaller needle size for swatching: Some knitters find that dropping down a needle size just for their swatch helps them get more consistent edges and reduce distortion.

      Blocking: Linen stitch really benefits from a good block! A wet or steam block can help relax the stitches and even out any edge imbalance — especially important before making jacket panels.

      If it still feels uneven, you might also try slipping the first stitch of each row purlwise to create a neater edge that’s less prone to stretching.

      I hope that helps — and I’d love to see how your jacket turns out!
      Happy knitting,
      Louise

      Reply