Here you will find an extensive list of knitting abbreviations and terms including both US and UK terminology.
When you first read a knitting pattern you may think that it has been written in another language.
And it sort of has been – but it is a simple enough language to understand.
Patterns use abbreviations that are shortened ways of telling you what techniques to do.
Knitting Abbreviations Explained
For example, knit is abbreviated to K, and purl is abbreviated to P.
The letters are often next to a number that will tell you how many stitches you should knit.
For example, K6 means ‘knit 6 stitches’.
This shorthand makes the patterns shorter and simpler for you to follow.
If the instructions were all written in full, then the patterns would be pages and pages long!
What Is The Difference Between US and UK Knitting Terms?
Once you start to learn how to read knitting patterns and practicing knitting techniques you will become more and more used to the shortened abbreviations.
If you see an abbreviation that you don’t understand, you can check the reference guide below (see the downloadable PDF at the bottom of this page).
Knitters in the UK and the US use slightly different terms such as ‘stocking stitch’ in the UK and ‘stockinette stitch’ in the US.
But the biggest difference is that the US and the UK use different systems for yarn weights and needle sizes.
Apart from that, the differences are small so you can use patterns from anywhere!
Get Started – Knitting Abbreviations + Terms List
If you want to learn more about how to start knitting, please visit this post – Knitting Lessons
The list below is a starter guide to general abbreviations and terms.
- There are links to video tutorials for some of the techniques below.
- Download the free PDF at the bottom of this page.
- Take a look at the general terms below to get started.
General
[ ] work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
( ) work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed
* repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
** repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions
” inch(es)
A
alt – alternate
approx – approximately
B
beg – begin, beginning
bet – between
bk2tog – brioche knit 2 together; knit next knit stitch together with its paired yarnover
bk3tog – right-slanting brioche decrease
bp2tog – brioche purl 2 together; purl next purl stitch together with its paired yarnover
bsk2p – left-slanting brioche decrease
C
cable – a decorative stitch that looks like a twisted rope or braid
CC – contrast color
cco – cable cast on
cm – centimeter(s)
cn – cable needle
CO – cast on
cont – continue
D
dec – decrease, decreases, decreasing
dpn – double pointed needles
F
fl – front loop(s)
foll – follow, follows, following
G
g – gram(s)
I
inc – increase, increases, increasing
K
k or K – knit (Video Tutorial)
k1b – knit 1 below
k1fb – knit one front and back; a single-stitch increase (Video Tutorial)
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together; a right-slanting, single-stitch decrease (Video Tutorial)
kitchener stitch – method of grafting lives stitches together
kwise – knitwise
L
LH – left hand
lp(s) – loop(s) (Video Tutorial)
M
m – meter(s)
M1 – make 1 stitch
m1L – make 1 left; left-slanting, single-stitch increase
m1R – make 1 right; right-slanting, single-stitch increase
M1 p-st – make 1 purl stitch
MC – main color
mm – millimeter(s)
O
oz – ounce(s)
P
p or P – purl (Video Tutorial)
p tbl – purl through the back loop
p1b – purl 1 below
p2tog – purl 2 stitches together; a single-stitch decrease
p2tog tbl – purl 2 stitches together through the back loops; also known a ssp; a one-stitch decrease
pat(s) or patt – pattern(s)
pm – place marker
pop – popcorn
prev – previous
psso – pass slipped stitch over
pwise – purlwise
R
rem – remain, remaining
rep(s) – repeat(s)
rev St st – reverse stockinette stitch
RH – right hand
Rib – Knit1, Purl 1 (Video Tutorial)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
S
s2kp – slip 2 together knitwise, k1, pass slipped stitches over (psso); a centered two-stitch decrease
sk – skip
sk2p – slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over (psso), then knit 2 together; a two-stitch decrease
skp – slip, knit, pass stitch over; a single-stitch decrease
sl – slip
sl st – slip stitch(es)
sl1k – slip 1 knitwise
sl1p – slip 1 purlwise
sl1, k1, ppso – slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over; a single-stitch decrease
ssk – slip, slip, knit these 2 stitches together; a left-slanting, single-stitch decrease
ssp – slip, slip, purl; one-stitch decrease; also known as p2tog tbl
sssk – slip, slip, slip, knit these 3 stitches together; a left-slanting, two-stitch decrease
st(s) – stitch(es)
St st – stockinette stitch, stocking stitch (Video Tutorial)
T
tbl – through back loop
tog – together
W
WS – wrong side
wyib – with yarn in back
wyif – with yarn in front
Y
yd(s) – yard(s)
yf or yfwd – yarn forward
yo – yarn over
yrn – yarn around needle
yon – yarn over needle
Pam Gillies says
This is most helpful. Even at 73 I sometimes need to be reminded of abbreviations.
handylittleme says
Hi Pam! That’s great to know, I too need reminding as there are so many, I always need a list! Thanks for reading 🙂
Pauline McElwain says
Hi there – I am knitting the easy knit cardigan. There are two abbreviations I do not understand. The first one is bind off and the second one which is in the shape the shoulders instructions S – 1-8 etc etc. If you would explain them to me it would be great. I live in Australia so some terms may be different. Thank you. I am enjoying knitting this. Cheers Pauline.
handylittleme says
Hello Pauline, no worries, let me see if I can help you, bind off is the same as cast off. So you need to cast off your knitting when you see that. Rows: S – 1- 8 / M – 1-10 / L – 1-12 / XL – 1-14 / XXL 1-16 – S stands for small – so these are the sizes and the number of rows you need to work for those sizes. So for the small size, you work 1-8 rows – and follow the instructions – so for the first row you cast off 1 st, at the beg of each row, then in row 3 – you work in the pattern until you have 49 sts in row 8. I hope that helps and if you need further help, please send me an email or use the contact page, I will be happy to help! Thanks for checking out my patterns, Louise 🙂
Mary says
I have a lot of British knitting patterns. Almost all have the same list of How-to’s that American patterns do. Yes, sometimes more explanation is necessary and this instruction/comparison will help with that.
I found that the yarn description was the hardest to get my mind around.
I was caring for an elderly parent (I’m not young and was in my 60’s at that time) in England. I asked a friend to buy some “wool” (yarn in the U.S.A.). Wool seemed to be a general term for yarn., not referring to the makeup of the skein. I asked for a 4ply that could be machine washed and dried.
What I got, (the pkg said 4 ply), was more the feel of a thicker than usual sport yarn. It was too thick if I used two strands, but not quite thick enough as it was. I found that the yarn content made the difference in thickness.
It was quite confusing to say the least. I’m a very tactile person, and need to touch and feel before I buy. This isn’t always possible. I can, after many years of knitting (60+) purchase yarn online, always keeping my fingers crossed if it’s a brand I’ve not previously used. So, explaining the differences between the yarn from different countries is extremely helpful.
Thank you
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Mary, thank you so much for your comment, I will definitely write a blog post soon that explains the difference in yarns from the UK/US/AUS. I have it on my to-do list 🙂
I too struggle with ordering online sometimes, as without seeing/feeling the yarns it can be hard to judge if it is exactly what you want for a project.
Happy knitting!
Louise
Colleen says
Hi Louise, I have been trying to find the pattern for the cream baby hat with a knot ,but not having much success,Do you think you could please send to my email address..Stay safe in the bad times🙏
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Colleen,
Here is a link for that hat pattern – I think it is the one that you are looking for – https://www.handylittleme.com/newborn-prop-hat-knitting-pattern/
Thanks,
Louise
Barbara says
I am working on an Irish Knit Cap pattern. It calls for Front Twist(FT) & Back Twist(BT) I cannot find an example of these on the internet.. How do this twists compare to Right Twist & Left Twist in the U.S.? There are several tutorials for these on the internet.
Thank you for your help.
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Barbara,
I have done cable twisted stitches before and perhaps the twists in your pattern are the same as the US terms but use different abbreviations?
One of my tea cosy patterns uses twists and the abbreviations are as follows:
Tw2F – Knit into the second st on the left-hand needle then knit into the front of the first st, slipping both stitches off the needle together.
Tw2B – Knit into the back of the second stitch on the left-hand needle, then knit into the front of the first stitch, slipping both stitches off the needle together.
Maybe you could try those?
I hope that helps!
Louise
Barbara says
Thank you very much, Louise. That is exactly how I do the my Twists, except what I am dancing…LOL!
Marion McNab says
Hi, I’m knitting an easter bunny hat and the first Dec row is saying – *k8, k2tog rep from * to last st (8;5 ) and k1 (8;5). When I get past the *k8,, k2tog part I have 5 stitches left and I don’t know what the bracketed (8;5) means . Can you help please ?
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Marion,
The (8:5) pertains to the size – so if you are making the smallest size you will K8, K2tog* rep from * to last st. If you have 5 sts left, you will knit 5 sts to the end.
The 8 refers to the medium size and 5 to the largest size.
In the size notes it says – This pattern is to fit baby size 0-3 months / 3-6 months / 6-9 months.
The first set of numbers applies to the small size, the second set to the medium size, and the third to the large size.
I hope that helps!
Louise