How To Substitute Yarn In A Knitting Pattern (An Easy Guide)

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This blog post will look at how to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern (an easy guide).

Substituting yarn in any knitting pattern will help you transition from beginner to more advanced and allow you to be more creative with your knitting.

This will give you the ability to experiment with a variety of different yarn colors and finishes.

Learning the skill of yarn substitution will allow you to explore a range of fibers other than those recommended in each knitting pattern.

This guide will give you all the information you need to make the right yarn choice for your project. 

yarn filled shelves for how to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern

Why Would You Choose To Substitute The Yarn?

Let’s say you have too much yarn of a specific type of yarn in your stash, but it’s not recommended and used in the pattern.

Wouldn’t it be great to use the yarn you have at home?

Also, let’s say you are allergic to a particular fiber, for example, alpaca fibers.

Yarns often go out of stock or are discontinued by the yarn companies. 

A common problem with vintage patterns

This is a common problem when knitting vintage patterns, as the yarns are out of production. 

Plus, not all yarns are available everywhere in the world. 

Does that mean you can’t make specific patterns using this yarn? No…

It means you are going to learn to substitute this yarn with one that you can use/like. 

Yarn in a bag

Where to Find Essential Yarn Information

You can find all the essential information about a yarn, the ball band, on its label. 

This includes the weight category (such as DK, worsted, or bulky), which helps determine the thickness of the yarn and the fiber content, which affects the stretch, warmth, and drape of your project. 

The yarn label 

The label also details yardage and skein weight, allowing you to calculate how much yarn you’ll need. 

Additionally, it lists the recommended needle size and gauge, which are crucial for ensuring that your stitches match the pattern’s intended size.

Care instructions are also included, informing you whether the yarn is machine washable or requires special handling. 

Learn how to read a yarn label here – How To Read A Yarn Label (Step By Step)

Additional yarn resources

Beyond the label, manufacturers often provide additional details on their websites, including suggested patterns, descriptions of the yarn’s characteristics, and real-life photos from users who have worked with it.

If you need more in-depth comparisons, online databases such as Ravelry and Yarn Sub are excellent resources. 

These platforms offer extensive yarn databases with user reviews, gauge information, and substitution recommendations based on weight, fiber, and texture. 

Yarn Stores

Many online yarn shops also list detailed product descriptions, helping you assess fiber content and recommended uses. 

Visiting a local yarn store or craft store can be beneficial as well, as knowledgeable staff can offer insights into yarn behavior and suitable substitutes. 

If you already have the yarn and want to check how it behaves, knitting a small gauge swatch is the best way to test its stretch, drape, and overall fabric feel before starting your project.

Yarn Substitution Made Easy…

Yarn substitution can be a scary idea for anyone less experienced with reading knitting patterns; however, it’s easier than it seems!

Once you’ve mastered how to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern, you will be well on your way to creating a wide range of items in different colors and finishes.

To work out what you can use instead of the yarn suggested by your pattern, simply follow these three simple checks outlined below.

Tip – Many knitting patterns include a list of alternative yarns, so you don’t have to go out of your way to find a good match. 

How to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern

1. Check The Gauge And Weight

The first step in yarn substitution, and to ensure you have the correct weight or thickness of yarn, is to check the pattern’s size gauge.

From here, you can establish exactly how many stitches and rows per inch your substituted yarn will need to match.

If your new thread is a good substitute, it should knit to the same size.

yarn basket for substituting yarn

The gauge is important

Your gauge will usually say something like “8 sts and 17 rows, to 10 x 10 cm using size 9 mm knitting needles,” which would tell you that your yarn should measure 10 centimeters by 10 centimeters for every 8 stitches and 17 rows that you knit (using 9 mm needles).

Whichever option you decide to substitute your original yarn for, make sure it matches your gauge – if it doesn’t, your finished item could end up a very different size.

In addition to using the knitting pattern’s gauge, the yarn specified in your instructions should also give you an indication of the ideal weight and thickness required.

Most designs that supply details for the gauge will also give you the weight.

Yarn weights

Yarn weight will be listed under a variety of different types, for example:

  • Jumbo
  • Super Bulky Weight Yarn
  • Bulky Weight Yarn 
  • Worsted Weight Yarn/Aran Weight Yarn 
  • DK Weight Yarn
  • Lightweight Yarn
  • Sport Weight Yarn 
  • Sock Weight Yarn
  • Fingering Weight Yarn
  • Lace Weight Yarn
colourful yarn collection

Know your yarn weights

Knowing the weight of the yarn that you require will help narrow down your search and will make shopping for your substitute yarn much easier.

If you’d like to know more about the different yarn weights, read my guide – Yarn Weight Guide (+ A Conversion Chart).

You can also check out this handy yarn weight chart below for you to pin for future reference.

Yarn weights and categories

2. Check The Fibre

As each ball of yarn will behave very differently from the next, it’s essential to find out the composition of the original yarn.

For example, a woolen hat you would want to wear for insulation in winter won’t do the same job if made from lighter-weight cotton yarn.

Acrylic fibers can also feel very different from natural wool, so it’s always best to check the exact material composition before you buy.

The fiber content is key; you can’t expect a 100% wool yarn to produce the same elasticity and fabric as an acrylic blend yarn.

Related Post – Yarn Types Explained: A Guide To Different Fibers

yarn and knitting needles

Common Yarn Fiber Substitutes

Here’s how different yarn fibers compare and what to consider when making a swap:

  • Wool

Good substitutes: Alpaca, Acrylic, Cotton Wool Blends 

  • Alpaca 

Good substitutes: Wool, Acrylic Bamboo 

  • Cotton 

Good substitutes: Linen, Bamboo, Blends of Wool/Cotton

  • Linen

Good substitutes: Cotton, Hemp, Bamboo

  • Silk

Good substitutes: Bamboo, Tencel, Blended Yarns 

  • Acrylic 

Good substitutes: Wool, Cotton, Wool/Acrylic Blends

Steps to substitute yarn fibers

Identify the properties of the original yarn – Check if the pattern calls for a fiber that is warm, elastic, drapey, or firm. 

Choose a substitute with similar properties – Match warmth, drape, and stretch as closely as possible.

Check yardage and weight – Some fibers are denser or fluffier, so the number of yards per skein might be different.

Knit a Swatch – Test how the new fiber behaves and check if the gauge is similar.

Consider Washing and Blocking Differences – Some fibers shrink, stretch, or behave differently after washing.

Tips for successful fiber substitutions

For Stretchy Projects (hats, socks, sweaters) → Choose a fiber with good elasticity, like wool. Avoid cotton or linen unless blended with wool.

For Lightweight and Breathable Projects (summer tops, shawls) → Bamboo, silk, or cotton are great choices.

For Warmth (cozy sweaters, winter accessories) → Wool, alpaca, or wool-blend yarns work best.

For Durability (baby blankets, machine-washable items) → Acrylic, superwash wool, or cotton/acrylic blends are easy to care for.

yarn with acrylic fibres

3. Check The Length

A knitting pattern will always state how many balls or skeins of yarn it will require; however, this will usually change when substituting yarn for a different type.

Not all yarn balls are created equal, and they often have very different lengths.

If you can’t find the yardage on the pattern page, it’s always available on the yarn shop page if you are shopping online or on the yarn label if you are visiting your yarn store. 

To work out the total length you will need of your substitute yarn, use this simple two-step calculation to establish the length and how many balls you will need:

Calculate the original total length

  • Take the number of skeins required for the pattern and then find the length of one of those balls of yarn.
  • For example, your knitting instructions state 8 balls of yarn, with one ball measuring 100 meters.
  • Next, multiply that individual length by the total number of balls required: 8 x 100 = 800 meters.
knitting needles and yarn

4. Yarn Texture & Ply

Yarn texture and ply affect the final appearance of your knitting. 

Even if you match weight and gauge, different textures can significantly impact your project.

1. Smooth vs. Fuzzy Yarns

  • Smooth yarns (silk, cotton, tightly spun wool) provide crisp stitch definition and are great for cables and textured patterns.
  • Fuzzy yarns (mohair, angora, alpaca) soften stitch definition and create a halo effect.

Example:

  • If a pattern calls for smooth worsted wool, substituting with fuzzy mohair will blur intricate stitch details.
  • If the pattern uses laceweight mohair, replacing it with smooth fingering-weight yarn will lose the soft, airy look.

2. Single-Ply vs. Multi-Ply Yarns

Ply refers to the yarn construction; the number of plies (strands twisted together) affects stitch definition, durability, and how the yarn behaves.

  • Single-ply yarns (e.g., Malabrigo Worsted, Manos del Uruguay Maxima) create a soft, slightly fuzzy texture but may pill more.
  • Multi-ply yarns (e.g., Cascade 220, Rowan Pure Wool) provide better stitch definition, making them ideal for cables and textured stitches.
cascade 220 yarn

Substituting With A Different Weight Of Yarn 

You can substitute with a lighter yarn in a knitting pattern, but you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure your project turns out as expected.

How to successfully substitute with a lighter yarn in a knitting pattern

1. Understand yarn weight differences

If the pattern calls for a heavier yarn (e.g., worsted weight) and you want to use a lighter yarn (e.g., DK or sport weight), you need to account for the difference in gauge and fabric structure.

2. Check the gauge

  • Lighter yarns usually create a looser fabric if you use the same needle size as the original pattern.
  • To match the pattern gauge, you may need to use smaller needles and adjust the stitch count.
  • Always knit a gauge swatch in the new yarn to compare against the pattern’s stitch count per inch.

3. Adjust for gauge differences

If your gauge does not match:

  • If you get more stitches per inch (tighter fabric): You may need to use a larger needle or cast on more stitches.
  • If you get fewer stitches per inch (looser fabric): Use a smaller needle or adjust the pattern to work with the new gauge.

4. Adjust the stitch count

If the new yarn results in a different stitch gauge, you’ll need to recalculate the stitch count:

  • Divide the total width of the finished piece by your new stitch gauge (stitches per inch). This will give you the number of stitches you need to cast on.
  • Example: If the pattern calls for 20 sts per 4 inches, but your new yarn gives you 24 sts per 4 inches, you’ll need to adjust the stitch count accordingly.

5. Consider fabric drape and texture

  • A lighter yarn will produce a different fabric feel.
  • If the pattern has cables or lace, check how they look in the new yarn weight.
  • Garments may have less structure if knit with a finer yarn.

6. Adjust the pattern size if needed

  • If you can’t match the gauge exactly, try knitting a larger size in the pattern.
  • Measure frequently as you knit to ensure the correct fit.

7. Yardage considerations

  • Lighter yarns usually have more yardage per skein.
  • Check how many yards/meters the pattern calls for and ensure you have enough in the substitute yarn.

8. Swatch, swatch, swatch!

Before committing to the full project, always make a test swatch and wash/block it as you would for the finished piece.

Use two strands together

One method to make a lighter yarn work without drastically altering the pattern is to hold two strands of the lighter yarn together. 

This can create a gauge closer to the original yarn weight while maintaining the softness and texture of the chosen fiber. 

If using a single strand, swatching is essential to determine whether the new gauge requires pattern adjustments. 

Be mindful that using two strands affects yardage requirements—double the amount of yarn is needed when holding two strands together. 

Additionally, consider the overall look and feel, as some fibers blend better when doubled, while others may create an uneven texture.

Related Post: How To Knit With Two Strands Of Yarn Together

How to successfully substitute with a heavier yarn in a knitting pattern

You can substitute yarn in a knitting pattern with a heavier yarn, but it requires some adjustments to ensure the final piece maintains the desired size, drape, and structure. 

When using a heavier yarn, your stitches will be larger, which means your gauge (the number of stitches per inch) will change. 

This can result in a larger finished project if not accounted for. 

To make the substitution work, you’ll need to adjust your needle size, modify the stitch count, or adapt the pattern to accommodate the new yarn. 

Additionally, fabric characteristics such as drape and elasticity may differ with a heavier yarn, so it’s important to consider the type of project you’re making. 

A heavier yarn can create a denser, warmer fabric, which may be great for winter garments but less ideal for lightweight or delicate projects.

1. Check the pattern’s gauge

Look at the recommended stitches per inch in the pattern and compare it with the gauge of your heavier yarn.

2. Swatch with different needles

Knit a gauge swatch using the heavier yarn with different needle sizes to see if you can match the pattern’s gauge.

3. Adjust needle size

If the heavier yarn results in too large stitches, try using smaller needles to bring the gauge closer to the original.

4. Modify stitch count

If matching gauge is impossible, calculate how many stitches per inch your new yarn gives and adjust the pattern accordingly.

5. Consider yardage requirements

Heavier yarns have different yardage per skein, so you may need fewer skeins overall but more total weight.

6. Check drape and fabric feel

A thicker yarn might change the way the fabric moves; test it to ensure it fits the intended use of the project.

7. Alter pattern dimensions If necessary

If the new yarn changes the size significantly, you may need to modify shaping, length, or other structural details.

By following these steps, you can successfully substitute a heavier yarn while maintaining control over your knitting project’s outcome. 

Can you substitute novelty yarns?

You can substitute novelty yarns, but it requires careful consideration because these yarns have unique textures, fibers, and structures that affect how the finished project looks and feels. 

Novelty yarns include fuzzy mohair, eyelash yarn, ribbon yarn, boucle, and other textured or specialty yarns that add visual interest. 

When substituting, the key is to match the texture and effect as closely as possible while maintaining a similar weight and gauge. 

Since novelty yarns don’t always knit up the same way as standard yarns, a swatch is essential to test how the fabric behaves, especially if the yarn has variations in thickness or structure.

Replacing the novelty yarn

If you’re replacing a novelty yarn with a smoother one, you may lose the original texture and effect, so consider holding a strand of a fine fuzzy yarn (like mohair) alongside a smooth yarn to mimic the look. 

Conversely, if switching from a smooth yarn to a novelty yarn, be mindful that highly textured yarns can obscure stitch patterns, making intricate lace or cablework less visible. 

Adjustments may also be needed for stitch counts, as some novelty yarns create a denser or looser fabric. 

Checking reviews, pattern notes, and experimenting with different substitutions can help ensure the new yarn maintains the integrity and style of the original design.

Should a new knitter substitute the yarn in a knitting pattern?  

For new knitters, it’s generally a good idea to stick with the recommended yarn in a pattern, as it ensures the project turns out as intended without the extra challenge of adjusting for differences in weight, fiber content, or gauge. 

Substituting yarn can affect the size, texture, and drape of the final piece, which may lead to unexpected results if not carefully accounted for. 

However, if a substitution is necessary—such as price range or yarn availability—a beginner should choose a yarn with the same weight and similar fiber content as the original and always knit a gauge swatch before starting the project. 

In which projects you shouldn’t substitute yarn?

There are certain knitting projects where substituting yarn is not recommended because the original yarn plays a crucial role in the final outcome. 

For example, in fitted garments like sweaters, socks, and gloves, substituting a yarn with a different fiber composition or elasticity can affect the fit, stretch, and durability. 

Similarly, in structured projects like cables and lace patterns, using a yarn with a drastically different texture or drape may cause the design to lose its definition. 

Additionally, felting projects require yarns made from non-superwash wool to properly shrink and mesh together, so substituting with superwash wool, acrylic, or cotton will prevent felting from occurring. 

Tightly knit items like stuffed toys also rely on a specific yarn structure to hold their shape, and substituting with a softer or stretchier yarn can cause the stuffing to show through or result in a misshapen toy. 

Good luck with your substituting adventures, and happy knitting! 

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10 Comments

  1. Hi Louise,
    Thank you!
    My question – how to substitute a different type of yarn unlike suggested pattern yarn to fit.?

    1. Hello Linda, you need to make sure you select a yarn that is in the same weight/category as the yarn given in the pattern.
      For example, if the pattern gives you a bulky yarn weight to use, you would also have to substitute it with a bulky weight yarn.
      If you use a different weight, then the end results will be different.
      Sometimes you can make the weight you need by knitting with two strands together, so if you wanted a bulky weight and knit with two strands of worsted or Aran together, that would also be ok to do.
      But you would need more yarn obviously.
      If the pattern does not give you the yarn weight, google the yarn it suggests to find that info or by the needle size given.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise

  2. Do you have the web site of GOOD YARN STORES that have a WIDE VARIETY of good yarns? I would appreciate any you could supply..

    1. Hello Susan,
      You could try the Love Crafts website, they have quite a variety of yarns.
      It depends on your location…in the US you could also look at the Lion Brand website.
      In the UK Wool Warehouse is also good.
      I also really like the yarns from We Are Knitters.
      I hope that helps,
      Louise

  3. This is an EXCELLENT ARTICLE. I needed this today because I am trying to substitute a particular Aran weight yarn. Thank you so very much for these pointers..

  4. My issue is that I have a LOT of yarn that was donated to my Needle Arts Club while I was still teaching. The good stuff came home with me when I retired (the club was folding, sadly) and some of it is without their labels. How do I determine what the weight of mystery yarn? I’ve read something about winding around a pencil and measuring the number of winds in a certain space. Is that a good way? Can you elaborate? THANKS for your site; I’ve already pinned a lot of good information :).

    1. Hello Elaine,

      Determining the weight of a mystery yarn can be a bit challenging without the yarn label or any specific information. However, you can use a few methods to get an approximate idea:

      Visual Comparison: Compare the mystery yarn to known yarn weights. Hold it up against different yarns you have that are labeled with their weights (lace, fingering, sport, DK, worsted, bulky, etc.). See which weight category it closely resembles in terms of thickness.

      Wraps per Inch: This method involves wrapping the mystery yarn around a ruler for an inch and counting the number of wraps. Then, compare this number to standard yarn weight wraps per inch. For instance, lace weight might have 18 or more wraps per inch, while bulky yarn might have 7 or fewer wraps per inch.

      Yarn Weight Chart: Use a yarn weight chart as a reference to match the thickness of the mystery yarn. There are many online charts available that provide information on yarn weights and their corresponding wraps per inch, recommended needle sizes, and gauge.

      Gauge Swatch: Knit a small swatch using different needle sizes to determine the fabric density and thickness. Compare the resulting fabric to known yarn weights to see which weight it most closely resembles.

      I hope that helps!

      Louise

  5. I have found that it’s really not good to stash yarn. You end up with boxes of yarn in different weights and not enough of the yarn you need. So staying brings about another issue to understand. I crochet, or i;l say, i like to crochet but understanding fibers and weight does not yield the needed gauge. I don’t understand why fibers that are acrylic are not the same. The labels don’t all give the “ply” to try to match it with another acrylic. I need a #5 bulky and in all this yarn, nothing goes together. To get the weight i need. I find this difficult to try to make garments and very frustrating.

    1. Hello Cheryl,

      It sounds like you’re dealing with a very relatable challenge!

      Stashing yarn can be a double-edged sword.

      While it’s great to have options, it can also lead to the frustration of having lots of yarn that doesn’t quite match your project needs.

      When it comes to fiber content and yarn weight, especially with acrylics, you’re right—different brands and manufacturers often have slight variations, even within the same weight category.

      This inconsistency can make matching gauge or finding the right thickness difficult.

      Acrylic yarn, in particular, can vary because of differences in how it’s spun, the density of the fibers, or even how it’s processed.

      The lack of consistent “ply” information can definitely make it harder to pair different acrylics.

      One thing that might help is swatching with multiple strands of thinner yarn to create a bulkier weight.

      For example, holding two strands of worsted weight together might get you closer to a #5 bulky.

      It’s not a perfect solution, but it could be worth experimenting with some swatches to see if it works for your current stash.

      Making garments can be particularly tricky when you’re trying to get an exact weight or gauge, but keep at it!

      Once you find that magic combination of yarn and hook, it can be so rewarding.

      Don’t get discouraged—crocheting is a learning process, and it sounds like you’re already getting a handle on some of the more complex aspects.

      Keep experimenting and good luck with your projects!

      Louise