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Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern

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This dog sweater knitting pattern has three sizes, so whatever dog breed you have, you can make something that will fit.

Smaller dogs love their knitted sweaters, not only do they look really cute, but it stops them from shivering in the cold weather.

Obviously, if you have a really large dog – you will have to measure the largest size to see if it will fit.

Make your dog a cozy knit for the colder months that they will love!

Scroll down for the free pattern or you can grab your printer-friendly, ad-free PDF here.

Dog+sweater+pattern

An Easy Dog Sweater To Make

This is an easy pattern for those of you who are advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are casting on, casting off, knit, purl, and slipping stitches.

You can make this sweater for a small dog, medium-sized dog, or large dog, the measurements are listed below in the pattern information.

You can knit with the stripes or without, using one block color if that is your preference.

There is also a little bit of crochet knowledge needed for the edging of the sweater, but if you do not know how to crochet, you don’t have to add that.

Free dog sweater knitting pattern

The Yarn I Used For The Dog Sweater Pattern

I made the dog sweater using DK – double knitting yarn, this is light worsted/8 ply yarn.

I used 4 different colored yarns in an acrylic blend.

Any DK/light worsted/8 ply yarn will be okay to use for this pattern.

dog sweater pattern

Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:

This pattern is great for any advanced beginner knitters.

dog-sweater-knitting-pattern

More Dog Sweaters

For more dog sweater knitting patterns you may be interested in this post, which features a roundup of 10 fall dog sweaters.

You may also like these free patterns for dog sweaters modeled by my own furry babe Jason:

dog jumper with rainbow stripes

Notes

This striped dog sweater knits up quickly and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.

*Please note there is a small amount of crocheting needed for the edging of the sweater.

This is to give the edges a more finished look. But it is not absolutely necessary, so if you can’t crochet, don’t worry!

Copyright

  • Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern. 
  • If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
  • You may sell items produced using this pattern.
  • Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
  • For the copyright T&C please read my Terms of Use.

Skill Level – Easy

Gauge

23 sts and 30 rows = 10cm/4″ square over stocking stitch using double knitting/DK yarn on 4mm(US 6) needles.

Size / Measurements >

  • Length (excluding collar) – small 29cm / medium 34cm / large 44cm
  • (Small-12” Medium- 14” Large- 17.5” inches)
  • Chest (at widest part) – small 35cm / medium 41cm / large 44cm
  • (Small – 14” Medium – 16” Large – 17.5” inches)

The Supplies You Need

Yarn

Needles

Notions

Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern

Abbreviations / Knitting Abbreviations List

  • Alt – alternate
  • Beg – beginning
  • CO – Cast on
  • Cont – continue
  • Dec – decrease by knitting the next 2 stitches together
  • Foll – following
  • Inc – increase by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch
  • K – knit
  • LHN – left-hand needle
  • M1 – make a stitch by picking up yarn before next stitch and knitting into the back of made loop.
  • P – purl
  • PM – Place marker
  • Rem – remaining
  • RHN – right-hand needle
  • S1 – slip next stitch
  • Stockinette (stocking stitch) st-st – row 1 knit, row 2 purl
  • Sts – stitches
  • RS – right side
  • WS – wrong side

Crochet Abbreviations

Grab The Ad-Free Printable PDF Pattern Here

Pattern Instructions

Start at the collar edge.

  • Using 4mm needles and Yarn A, cast on 68 (80:88) sts.
  • Row 1: (RS of the collar, WS of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
  • Row 2: (WS of the collar, rs of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
  • Repeating 1st and 2nd rows form 1×1 rib.
  • Cont in rib until collar measures 11 (11.5:11.5) cm (or 4.3” / 4.5”:4.5”) inches ending with RS of the collar facing for next row.
  • Next row (RS of the collar, WS of coat) rib 11 (15:17), m1k, rib to end. 69 (81:89) sts.

Divide for back and belly >

  • Row 1: (RS of coat) k 57 (65:71) sts for back of the sweater, and work on these stitches only.
  • Leave rem 12 (16:18) sts on a holder for the belly.
  • Row 2: Purl.
  • Row 3: (Lead hole row) (RS) k 26 (30:32), k1, sl 1, pass k1 over sl 1, * sl 1, pass next st on RHN over the stitch just slipped; rep from * 4 (4:6) times. Slip last st on RHN back to LHN. Turn (WS facing). Cast on 6 (6:8) sts. Cast on 1 more stitch bringing yarn between the needles from back to front before putting the stitch onto LHN. Turn (RS facing). K1 and pass next st on RHN over the k1 just worked. Knit to end. 57 (65:71) sts.
  • Row 4: Purl.
  • Break Yarn A and join Yarn B.
  • Next row (RS) knit.
  • Next row (WS) purl.
  • Repeating last 2 rows forms stocking stitch.
  • Work 2 more rows in st-st.
  • Break Yarn B and join Yarn C.
  • Beg with a knit row work 4 rows st-st.
  • Break Yarn C and join Yarn D.
  • Beg with a knit row work 4 rows in st st.
  • Breaking and joining yarns as required, cont. in st-st working the stripe sequence:
  • 4 rows Yarn A.
  • 4 rows Yarn B.
  • 4 rows Yarn C.
  • 4 rows Yarn D.
  • Until back of coat measures: approx. 26 (31:41) cm or 10” (12”/ 16”)inches (from the start of st-st, ending after the 4th row of a stripe and rs facing for next row.
  • Break current yarn and join Yarn A.
  • Row 1: (RS) knit.
  • Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
  • Row 3: k1, *p1, k1: rep from * to end.
  • 2nd and 3rd rows form 1 x 1 rib.
  • Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm, or 2” inches ending with RS facing for next row.
  • Cast off in rib.
  • Pm at each end of the back between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows, between 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows and between 45th and 46th (54th and 55th: 60th and 61st) rows.
  • Sew ends not required for seaming into their own colour.

Belly >

  • With RS facing, join Yarn C to 12 (16:18) sts left on a holder.
  • Beg with a knit row work 6 rows st-st.
  • Row 7: (RS) k1, m1k, knit to last 1 st, m1k, k1. 14 (18:20) sts.
  • Work 2 rows st-st.
  • Row 10: (WS) p1, m1p, purl to last st, m1p, p1. 16 (20:22) sts.
  • Cont in st-st, inc 1 st at each end of 13th, 16th, 19th, 23rd, 27th and 31st rows. 28 (32:34) sts.
  • Cont in st-st until the 36th (46th: 52nd) row has been completed from the start of st-st (belly measures approximately 12 (15:17) cm, or 5”(6:7) inches ending with RS facing for next row.
  • Break Yarn C and join Yarn A.
  • Row1: (RS) knit.
  • Row 2: *k1, p1: rep from * to end.
  • Repeating 2nd-row forms 1×1 rib.
  • Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm or 2 inches ending with RS facing for next row.
  • Cast off in rib.
  • Pm at each end of the belly between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.

Lead hole edging >

  • Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 round of edging all round lead hole as follows:
  • Inserting hook into the center of each stitch, work 1 dc into each cast-off stitch of the hole, work 1 dc at the side edge of the hole, work 1 dc into each cast-on stitch of the hole, work 1 dc between at side edge of the hole, 1 Sl-st into the first-stitch round. Fasten off.

Back edging >

  • Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
  • Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 sl-st into each row edge stitch of the 3cm/2 inches of rib, and work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st stripes.
  • The collar does not have crochet edging.

Belly edging >

  • Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn C, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
  • Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st.
  • The rib and the collar do not have crochet edging.

Making up the sweater

  • Pin the sweater to the measurements given, opening out the rib of the collar and at the tail and belly.
  • Press following the instructions on the skein/ball band, or cover with damp cloths and leave until dry.
  • Stocking stitch has a natural tendency to curl towards the wrong side at the sides.
  • Adding the crochet edging and blocking the sweater as instructed will help to minimize this but some yarns will maintain the curl more than others.
  • With RS of the collar (WS of the sweater) facing, using mattress stitch and Yarn A, join the collar seam for 5.5 (6:6) cm or 2.1”(2.5:2.5) inches taking one stitch into the seam at each side so that the 1×1 rib is continuous all the way around.
  • Reverse the sweater.
  • With RS of the sweater (WS of collar) facing, using mattress stitch and yarn a, continue to join the collar seam to the end of the 1×1 rib, again taking one stitch into the seam at each side.
  • Fasten off Yarn A.
  • Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam from the top of the 1×1 rib of the collar to the marker between the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows (joining the 9th (9th and 12th) rows ends the seam), taking the crochet edging into the seam at each side.
  • Fasten off Yarn C.
  • Leave the seam open between the markers at the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
  • Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam, starting at the markers at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows (joining the 35th(43rd: 50th) rows starts the seam) and ending at the last row of the belly rib, matching the belly to the back row for row.
  • Take the crochet edging into the seam at each side along the stocking stitch and half a stitch at the side edge for the belly rib.
  • Join the other side edge of the belly to the other side edge of the back to match.
  • Fold collar in half to RS of the sweater.

Share your work with us…

I love seeing your finished projects.

If you enjoyed making the dog sweater I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme. 

If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook page and share a photo.  

I’d love to see your work! 

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31 Comments

  1. For row 3 in the 2nd section are we supposed to cast off after slipping the stitches over? If not how exactly are you supposed to do it?

    1. Hello, in the divide for back and belly – row 3 – you ‘(lead hole row) (rs) k26 (30:32), k1, sl 1, pass k1 over sl 1, * sl 1, pass next st on RHN over the stitch just slipped;’ so when you pass the next st on the RHN over the stitch just slipped, you are decreasing those stitches, effectively casting them off. You rep that as many times for the size you are making and then follow th rest of that rows instructions. This is to make the hole for the lead. I hope that helps! πŸ™‚

        1. Hello Tina,
          Do you mean Row 3 for the lead hole in the divide for the back and belly?
          This is a long section of instructions for creating the lead hole. If you do not want to have a lead hole you can miss this out and just knit this row.
          The instructions are telling you how to create that hole – looking at this knitting and abbreviations guide may help you with understanding this a little better – https://www.handylittleme.com/knitting-abbreviations/
          Just take it one step at a time and stick to the instructed number for your size, the smallest size is first, followed by the medium and then the large.
          I hope that helps!
          Louise

  2. Confused about placing markers for legs, shouldn’t there only be a market for top of hole and one for the bottom?

    1. Hello Dawn, the markers are there to help you to match up the back of the sweater and front, so that you can see where to seam – leaving the holes for the legs. In the making up instructions, this is all explained. Thanks for visiting πŸ™‚

  3. Thank you for sharing this! I’ve been wanting to learn how to knit, and this is definitely in my bucket list of things to knit! The sweaters are so adorable, and they’ll be perfect for my Pebbles! I’m thinking of making something homemade for her for a change, so this is perfect!

    1. Hello Emilie, there are three sizes to choose from in this pattern, small, medium and large. The measurements are listed before the pattern. I hope that helps! Thanks for visiting πŸ™‚

  4. I just wanted to say to everyone reading this. That this lady is amazing as our dogs chest is 81cm and she went out of her way to help me . And I’ve never known a designer to get back to anyone so quick .
    I’m only upto 3 inches of the rib but looking so forward to finishing it xx

    1. Hi Amanda, thank you for your kind words and no worries, all of our fur babies need to show off our knitting skills in winter πŸ™‚ If you need further help with anything, just send me a message. Happy knitting!

  5. Can you please give a Stitch Gauge on this pattern I see a row gauge of 5 rows to the inch, but no stitch gauge

    1. Hello, I have updated the gauge/tension and you can see it is as follows:
      23 sts and 30 rows = 10cm/4β€³ square over stocking stitch using double knitting/DK yarn on 4mm(US 6) needles.
      I hope that helps πŸ™‚

  6. Hi there, trying to determine the sizing for my dog (a Havanese) as this is such a cute sweater! I have measured her and her back is measuring about 15″ long while the circumference around her chest is 21″. I worry if I cast on 112 stitches I calculated to accommodate a 21.5″ chest, the neck will be huge as she’s only about 22lb do you have any suggestions? Should I go ahead with 112 stitches or keep it smaller and do several increases on the last row of the neck? Also is it possible that I’m not reading the pattern right and the sizing for the chest is the measurement across the chest only if the sweater is lying flat (not the circumference around the dog’s widest part?) Thanks!

    1. Hello Emily, from your dog’s measurements, it seems as though the medium is a good size for the back – at 14 inches you can extend this slightly but you don’t want it to be too long so it should stop a few inches before the tail.
      The chest measurements are for the widest part and this is when the sweater is laying flat – the width of the widest section of the belly.
      At 21 inches it looks like you will have to increase more as the largest size measures 17.5 inches at the widest part.
      You could cast on for the largest size and adjust the back length (make it shorter) and for the belly – increase more stitches so that the belly is wider.
      If you cast on too many stitches to start with the neck will then be very wide.
      It is better to increase gradually, as you would anyway in the belly section of the pattern, just add to that to make that section wider and meet the 21.5 inches you need.
      I hope that helps,
      Louise

      1. Thank you I will give it a try and let you know how it turns out πŸ™‚ nothing better to do these days anyways so I have time to play around with it lol

  7. Hi, thank you for this pattern! Am I right in thinking that if we don’t want holes for a lead then we start the st st pattern on row three? Thank you !

    1. Hello Jessica,
      Yes – if you don’t want to include the lead hole in the sweater you can just leave it out and continue to knit in st st.
      Happy Knitting!
      Louise

  8. Just a couple of comments about dog sweaters that might help newer knitters. Dogs are not particular to knit for. They just want something warm and don’t care about color. So, use a basic pattern like this one to learn and then to show off your skills as you learn. Dogs are harder on their sweaters than people are so expect it to stretch. Too short and a bit too tight is better than too loose and too long. Try on the sweater as you go along (unless it’s going to be a surprise) to get the idea if you need to lengthen or make other adjustments along the way. Some dogs like things around their neck and some do not. Dog sweaters are good projects for using reflective yarn in when you can find it. Even a few stripes of it makes the dog much easier to see at night. Expect to be stopped while you’re out walking too. In these COVID days, take the extra hour or two and make yourself a matching mask.

  9. do you (or anyone) have any easy (beginner knitter) patterns for a sweater for a FEMALE small dog? All the patterns are for Male dogs & don’t cover their bellies. My friend has a Havanese female and wants a sweater that will cover her underneath as well as on top right to her back legs….maybe even a ‘loop’ to go around the back legs to hold it in place. She’d also like it to have ‘sleeves’ for the front legs. She’s low to the ground and gets all wet underneath.
    thanks.
    Laura

    1. Hello Laura,
      I just have the patterns you can see on the site.
      Perhaps you could adapt one of them to make the underside/belly longer?
      And the back piece could easily be adapted to be longer in length.
      Plus if you wanted a knitted strap to connect, you could measure and make that in one long knitted length that could then be sewn to each piece?
      Let me know how it goes, happy knitting!
      Louise

  10. Louise,Please help.l am at an impass as l cannot follow the instruction on pg.19/29 in your dog sweater knitting pattern.
    I am a real beginner and love your
    Patterns-what a pleasurable way to relax during this COVID lockdown.πŸ™πŸΌ

    1. Hello Marita,
      Can you send me an email with the instructions that you are confused about?
      I need more details to be able to help you.
      You can use the contact page on the site.
      Thanks,
      Louise

  11. Hello. I have knit the sweater in one colour and now am having an issue figuring out where to stitch what due to the instructions referring to yarn colours/ABCetc. How do I know where I must do what and how do I also know which parts I can sew together before starting the crocheting.

    I am so confused and trying to make this for a friend. The confusion might also be my pregnancy brain.

    1. Hello Zamo,
      Did you place the markers where it said to in the pattern?
      If you didn’t use markers, you will need to count the rows until you get to the part for the leg holes;
      Leave the seam open between the markers at the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
      You will seam before that and after that without needing to match up any colurs.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise