Free Dog Sweater Pattern (Easy Knit Striped Coat)
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.This free dog sweater pattern has three sizes, so you can make something that will fit your dog’s breed.
Small dogs love their knitted sweaters; not only do they look really cute, but it stops them from shivering in the cold weather.
Obviously, if you have a really large dog, you must measure the largest size to see if it will fit.
Make your dog a cozy knit for the colder months they will love!
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Free Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern
Grab your inexpensive, ad-free, PDF printable pattern here.
Grab 12 dog sweater patterns in my discounted bundle here!
Notes
Skill Level – Easy (advanced beginners)
- This striped dog sweater knits up quickly, and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
- Your pet (fur kid or pup) will love wearing this sweater for extra warmth on cold days.
- Cozy sweaters are perfect for early morning winter walks or a trip to the dog park.
- You can make this easy-knit dog sweater for dogs of all sizes, and the small size may even fit a cat (if they wear a cat sweater, that is!).
- Remember to measure your dog to check which size will make the perfect fit (including the chest circumference).
- You can use straight or circular needles to knit this sweater, but it is knit flat (back and forth) on the needles, not in the round.
*Please note there is a small amount of crocheting needed for the edging of the sweater. This is to give the edges a more finished look. But it is not absolutely necessary, so if you can’t crochet, don’t worry!
Copyright
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this free knit pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern to support your furry friend.
- Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.
Gauge
23 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm/4″ square over stocking stitch using double knitting/DK yarn on 4 mm (US 6) needles.
Size / Dog’s Measurements >
There are three different sizes to make for your four-legged friends, including small size dogs (like small Yorkies), medium size dogs, and large size dogs.
Measure the back length and chest size (at the widest part)…
- Length (excluding collar) – small 29 cm / medium 34 cm / large 44 cm
- (Small-12” Medium- 14” Large- 17.5” inches)
- Chest (at widest part) – small 35 cm / medium 41 cm / large 44 cm
- (Small – 14” Medium – 16” Large – 17.5” inches)
The Supplies You Need
Yarn
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn A)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn B)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn C)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn D)
- Any Double Knitting (DK)/Light Worsted/8 Ply Yarn.
- Yarn Weight Guide (+ Conversion Chart)
Needles
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holder
Dog Coat Abbreviations
Knitting Abbreviations And Terms (US And UK)
- Alt – alternate
- Beg – beginning
- CO – Cast on
- Cont – continue
- Dec – decrease by knitting the next 2 stitches together
- Foll – following
- Inc – increase by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch
- K – knit
- LHN – left-hand needle
- M1 – make a stitch by picking up yarn before the next stitch and knitting into the the back of the made loop.
- P – purl
- PM – Place marker
- Rem – remaining
- RHN – right-hand needle
- S1 – slip next stitch
- Stockinette (stocking stitch) st-st – row 1 knit, row 2 purl
- Sts – stitches
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
Crochet Abbreviations
- S-st – slip stitch
- dc – double crochet (Tutorial – how to double crochet (dc) for beginners)
Free Knitting Pattern Instructions
Start at the collar edge
- Using 4 mm needles and Yarn A, cast on 68 (80:88) sts.
- Row 1: (RS of the collar, WS of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- Row 2: (WS of the collar, rs of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- Repeating 1st and 2nd rows form 1×1 rib.
- Cont in rib until collar measures 11 (11.5:11.5) cm (or 4.3” / 4.5”:4.5”) inches ending with RS of the collar facing for next row.
- Next row (RS of the collar, WS of coat) rib 11 (15:17), m1k, rib to end. 69 (81:89) sts.
Divide for back and belly >
- Row 1: (RS of coat) k 57 (65:71) sts for the back of the sweater, and work on these stitches only.
- Leave rem 12 (16:18) sts on a holder for the belly.
- Row 2: Purl.
- Row 3: (Lead hole row) (RS) k 26 (30:32), k1, sl 1, pass k1 over sl 1, * sl 1, pass next st on RHN over the stitch just slipped; rep from * 4 (4:6) times. Slip last st on RHN back to LHN. Turn (WS facing). Cast on 6 (6:8) sts. Cast on 1 more stitch, bringing yarn between the needles from back to front before putting the stitch onto LHN. Turn (RS facing). K1 and pass next st on RHN over the k1 just worked. Knit to end. 57 (65:71) sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Break Yarn A and join Yarn B.
- Next row (RS) knit.
- Next row (WS) purl.
- Repeating last 2 rows forms stocking stitch.
- Work 2 more rows in st-st.
- Break Yarn B and join Yarn C.
- Beg with a knit row work 4 rows st-st.
- Break Yarn C and join Yarn D.
- Beg with a knit row work 4 rows in st st.
- Breaking and joining yarns as required, cont. in st-st working the stripe sequence:
- 4 rows Yarn A.
- 4 rows Yarn B.
- 4 rows Yarn C.
- 4 rows Yarn D.
- Until back of coat measures: approx. 26 (31:41) cm or 10” (12”/ 16”) inches (from the start of st-st, ending after the 4th row of a stripe and rs facing for next row.
- Break the current yarn and join Yarn A.
- Row 1: (RS) knit.
- Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
- Row 3: k1, *p1, k1: rep from * to end.
- 2nd and 3rd rows form 1 x 1 rib.
- Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm, or 2” inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Cast off in rib.
- Pm at each end of the back between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows, between 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows and between 45th and 46th (54th and 55th: 60th and 61st) rows.
- Sew ends not required for seaming into their own color.
Belly/Underside >
- With RS facing, join Yarn C to 12 (16:18) sts left on a holder.
- Beg with a knit row work 6 rows st-st.
- Row 7: (RS) k1, m1k, knit to last 1 st, m1k, k1. 14 (18:20) sts.
- Work 2 rows st-st.
- Row 10: (WS) p1, m1p, purl to last st, m1p, p1. 16 (20:22) sts.
- Cont in st-st, inc 1 st at each end of 13th, 16th, 19th, 23rd, 27th and 31st rows. 28 (32:34) sts.
- Cont in st-st until the 36th (46th: 52nd) row has been completed from the start of st-st (belly measures approximately 12 (15:17) cm, or 5”(6:7) inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Break Yarn C and join Yarn A.
- Row1: (RS) knit.
- Row 2: *k1, p1: rep from * to end.
- Repeating 2nd-row forms 1×1 rib.
- Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm or 2 inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Cast off in rib.
- Pm at each end of the belly between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
Lead hole edging >
- Using a 4 mm/G-6 crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 round of edging all round lead hole as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of each stitch, work 1 dc into each cast-off stitch of the hole, work 1 dc at the side edge of the hole, work 1 dc into each cast-on stitch of the hole, work 1 dc between at side edge of the hole, 1 Sl-st into the first-stitch round. Fasten off.
Back edging >
- Using a 4 mm/G-6 crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 sl-st into each row edge stitch of the 3cm/2 inches of rib, and work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st stripes.
- The collar does not have crochet edging.
Belly edging >
- Using a 4 mm/G-6 crochet hook and Yarn C, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st.
- The rib and the collar do not have crochet edging.
Making up the sweater
- Pin the sweater to the measurements given, opening out the rib of the collar and at the tail and belly.
- Press following the instructions on the skein/ball band, or cover with damp cloths and leave until dry.
- Stocking stitch has a natural tendency to curl towards the wrong side at the sides.
- Adding the crochet edging and blocking the sweater as instructed will help to minimize this, but some yarns will maintain the curl more than others.
- With RS of the collar (WS of the sweater) facing, using mattress stitch and Yarn A, join the collar seam for 5.5 (6:6) cm or 2.1”(2.5:2.5) inches, taking one stitch into the seam at each side so that the 1×1 rib is continuous all the way around.
- Reverse the sweater.
- With RS of the sweater (WS of collar) facing, using mattress stitch and yarn a, continue to join the collar seam to the end of the 1×1 rib, again taking one stitch into the seam at each side.
- Fasten off Yarn A.
- Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam from the top of the 1×1 rib of the collar to the marker between the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows (joining the 9th (9th and 12th) rows ends the seam), taking the crochet edging into the seam at each side.
- Fasten off Yarn C.
- For the leg openings – Leave the seam open between the markers at the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
- Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam, starting at the markers at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows (joining the 35th(43rd: 50th) rows starts the seam) and ending at the last row of the belly rib, matching the belly to the back row for row.
- Take the crochet edging into the seam at each side along the stocking stitch and half a stitch at the side edge for the belly rib.
- Join the other side edge of the belly to the other side edge of the back to match.
- Fold collar in half to RS of the sweater.
Grab The Ad-Free Printable PDF Pattern Here
An Easy Dog Sweater To Make
This is an easy pattern for those of you who are at the advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are casting on, casting off, knitting, purling, and slipping stitches.
You can make this sweater for a small dog, medium-sized dog, or large dog; the measurements are listed in the pattern information.
You can knit with the stripes or without, using one block color if you prefer.
There is also a bit of crochet knowledge needed for the edging of the sweater, but if you do not know how to crochet, you don’t have to add that.
The Yarn I Used For The Dog Sweater Pattern
I made the dog sweater using DK – double knitting yarn; this is light worsted/8 ply yarn.
I used 4 different colored yarns in an acrylic blend.
Any DK/light worsted/8 ply yarn will be okay for this pattern.
What kind of yarn is good for dogs?
When selecting yarn for projects intended for dogs, it’s crucial to prioritize safety and comfort.
Here are some factors to consider when choosing yarn for dog-related items:
- Natural Fibers: Opt for yarn made from natural fibers such as cotton, wool, or bamboo. These materials are generally soft, breathable, and less likely to cause irritation or discomfort to a dog’s skin.
- Non-Toxic: Ensure that the yarn is free from harmful chemicals or dyes that could be toxic to dogs if ingested. Look for yarn labeled as non-toxic and safe for pets.
- Washable: Choose a yarn that is machine washable and easy to clean. Dog-related items, such as sweaters, blankets, or toys, may need frequent washing due to dirt, hair, or other messes.
- Durable: Select yarn that is durable and able to withstand the wear and tear associated with dog activities. Dogs may chew on toys or pull on sweaters, so a sturdy yarn will help ensure longevity.
- Avoid Loosely Spun Yarns: Yarns with a loose or fluffy texture may shed fibers, which can pose a choking hazard if ingested by dogs. Opt for yarns with a tighter twist to minimize shedding.
- Consider Allergies: Some dogs may have sensitivities or allergies to certain fibers. If your dog has known allergies, avoid using yarn made from allergenic materials such as wool.
- Softness: Choose a yarn with a soft texture to ensure your dog’s comfort, especially for items like blankets or beds where they will be in direct contact with the yarn.
- Weight and Thickness: Consider the weight and thickness of the yarn based on the intended use of the item. For example, thicker yarn may be more suitable for blankets or beds, while thinner yarn may be better for sweaters or toys.
By considering these factors, you can select a yarn that is safe, comfortable, and suitable for your dog’s needs.
Always supervise your dog when they are interacting with yarn-related items to prevent accidents or ingestion of yarn fibers.
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
This pattern is great for any advanced beginner knitters.
- Knitting cast-on methods
- Knitting Lessons
- How to cast on knitting
- How to cast off knitting for total beginners (step by step)
- How to knit garter stitch
- How to knit the purl stitch (for beginners + a video tutorial)
- How to knit stockinette stitch (for beginners)
- How to read knitting patterns for beginners
- Knitting abbreviations and terms (US and UK)
- How to knit rib stitch patterns (1×1 and 2×2 ribbing)
- How to knit two stitches together – K2tog
More Dog Sweaters
For more free dog sweater knitting patterns, you may be interested in this post, which features a roundup of 17 fall dog sweaters – 17 Beautiful Fall Dog Sweater Knitting Patterns
You may also like these free patterns for dog sweaters modeled by my own furry babe, Jason:
- Cable Knit Dog Sweater Pattern
- Dog Jumper Knitting Pattern – Rainbow Stripes
- Knitted Dog Sweater Pattern – Ribbed Dog Sweater/3 Sizes
- Large Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern
- Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern | Mischief Managed
- Puppy Sweater Knitting Pattern (XS Puppy)
- Baby Yoda Pattern – Dog Sweater
- Christmas Dog Sweater
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