This dog sweater knitting pattern has three sizes, so whatever dog breed you have, you can make something that will fit.
Smaller dogs love their knitted sweaters, not only do they look really cute, but it stops them from shivering in the cold weather.
Obviously, if you have a really large dog – you will have to measure the largest size to see if it will fit.
Make your dog a cozy knit for the colder months that they will love!
Scroll down for the free pattern or you can grab your printer-friendly, ad-free PDF here.
An Easy Dog Sweater To Make
This is an easy pattern for those of you who are advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are casting on, casting off, knit, purl, and slipping stitches.
You can make this sweater for a small dog, medium-sized dog, or large dog, the measurements are listed below in the pattern information.
You can knit with the stripes or without, using one block color if that is your preference.
There is also a little bit of crochet knowledge needed for the edging of the sweater, but if you do not know how to crochet, you don’t have to add that.
The Yarn I Used For The Dog Sweater Pattern
I made the dog sweater using DK – double knitting yarn, this is light worsted/8 ply yarn.
I used 4 different colored yarns in an acrylic blend.
Any DK/light worsted/8 ply yarn will be okay to use for this pattern.
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
This pattern is great for any advanced beginner knitters.
More Dog Sweaters
For more dog sweater knitting patterns you may be interested in this post, which features a roundup of 10 fall dog sweaters.
You may also like these free patterns for dog sweaters modeled by my own furry babe Jason:
Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern
This striped dog sweater knits up quickly and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
*Please note there is a small amount of crocheting needed for the edging of the sweater.
This is to give the edges a more finished look. But it is not absolutely necessary, so if you can’t crochet, don’t worry!
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
Skill Level – Easy
23 sts and 30 rows = 10cm/4″ square over stocking stitch using double knitting/DK yarn on 4mm(US 6) needles.
Size / Measurements >
- Length (excluding collar) – small 29cm / medium 34cm / large 44cm
- (Small-12” Medium- 14” Large- 17.5” inches)
- Chest (at widest part) – small 35cm / medium 41cm / large 44cm
- (Small – 14” Medium – 16” Large – 17.5” inches)
The Supplies You Need
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn A)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn B)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn C)
- 50 (100:100g) any double knitting (DK) yarn, color (Yarn D)
- Any Double Knitting (DK)/Light Worsted/8 Ply Yarn.
- Yarn weight guide
Abbreviations / Knitting Abbreviations List
- Alt – alternate
- Beg – beginning
- CO – Cast on
- Cont – continue
- Dec – decrease by knitting the next 2 stitches together
- Foll – following
- Inc – increase by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch
- K – knit
- LHN – left-hand needle
- M1 – make a stitch by picking up yarn before next stitch and knitting into the back of made loop.
- P – purl
- PM – Place marker
- Rem – remaining
- RHN – right-hand needle
- S1 – slip next stitch
- Stockinette (stocking stitch) st-st – row 1 knit, row 2 purl
- Sts – stitches
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
- S-st – slip stitch
- dc – double crochet (Tutorial – How to double crochet)
Start at the collar edge.
- Using 4mm needles and Yarn A, cast on 68 (80:88) sts.
- Row 1: (RS of the collar, WS of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- Row 2: (WS of the collar, rs of coat) *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- Repeating 1st and 2nd rows form 1×1 rib.
- Cont in rib until collar measures 11 (11.5:11.5) cm (or 4.3” / 4.5”:4.5”) inches ending with RS of the collar facing for next row.
- Next row (RS of the collar, WS of coat) rib 11 (15:17), m1k, rib to end. 69 (81:89) sts.
Divide for back and belly >
- Row 1: (RS of coat) k 57 (65:71) sts for back of the sweater, and work on these stitches only.
- Leave rem 12 (16:18) sts on a holder for the belly.
- Row 2: Purl.
- Row 3: (Lead hole row) (RS) k 26 (30:32), k1, sl 1, pass k1 over sl 1, * sl 1, pass next st on RHN over the stitch just slipped; rep from * 4 (4:6) times. Slip last st on RHN back to LHN. Turn (WS facing). Cast on 6 (6:8) sts. Cast on 1 more stitch bringing yarn between the needles from back to front before putting the stitch onto LHN. Turn (RS facing). K1 and pass next st on RHN over the k1 just worked. Knit to end. 57 (65:71) sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Break Yarn A and join Yarn B.
- Next row (RS) knit.
- Next row (WS) purl.
- Repeating last 2 rows forms stocking stitch.
- Work 2 more rows in st-st.
- Break Yarn B and join Yarn C.
- Beg with a knit row work 4 rows st-st.
- Break Yarn C and join Yarn D.
- Beg with a knit row work 4 rows in st st.
- Breaking and joining yarns as required, cont. in st-st working the stripe sequence:
- 4 rows Yarn A.
- 4 rows Yarn B.
- 4 rows Yarn C.
- 4 rows Yarn D.
- Until back of coat measures: approx. 26 (31:41) cm or 10” (12”/ 16”)inches (from the start of st-st, ending after the 4th row of a stripe and rs facing for next row.
- Break current yarn and join Yarn A.
- Row 1: (RS) knit.
- Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
- Row 3: k1, *p1, k1: rep from * to end.
- 2nd and 3rd rows form 1 x 1 rib.
- Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm, or 2” inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Cast off in rib.
- Pm at each end of the back between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows, between 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows and between 45th and 46th (54th and 55th: 60th and 61st) rows.
- Sew ends not required for seaming into their own colour.
- With RS facing, join Yarn C to 12 (16:18) sts left on a holder.
- Beg with a knit row work 6 rows st-st.
- Row 7: (RS) k1, m1k, knit to last 1 st, m1k, k1. 14 (18:20) sts.
- Work 2 rows st-st.
- Row 10: (WS) p1, m1p, purl to last st, m1p, p1. 16 (20:22) sts.
- Cont in st-st, inc 1 st at each end of 13th, 16th, 19th, 23rd, 27th and 31st rows. 28 (32:34) sts.
- Cont in st-st until the 36th (46th: 52nd) row has been completed from the start of st-st (belly measures approximately 12 (15:17) cm, or 5”(6:7) inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Break Yarn C and join Yarn A.
- Row1: (RS) knit.
- Row 2: *k1, p1: rep from * to end.
- Repeating 2nd-row forms 1×1 rib.
- Cont in rib until rib measures 5 cm or 2 inches ending with RS facing for next row.
- Cast off in rib.
- Pm at each end of the belly between 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
Lead hole edging >
- Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 round of edging all round lead hole as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of each stitch, work 1 dc into each cast-off stitch of the hole, work 1 dc at the side edge of the hole, work 1 dc into each cast-on stitch of the hole, work 1 dc between at side edge of the hole, 1 Sl-st into the first-stitch round. Fasten off.
Back edging >
- Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn A, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 sl-st into each row edge stitch of the 3cm/2 inches of rib, and work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st stripes.
- The collar does not have crochet edging.
Belly edging >
- Using a 4mm crochet hook and Yarn C, with RS facing, work 1 row of edging along each side edge as follows:
- Inserting hook into the center of row edge stitch, work 1 dc into 3 out of every 4-row edge stitches of the st-st.
- The rib and the collar do not have crochet edging.
Making up the sweater
- Pin the sweater to the measurements given, opening out the rib of the collar and at the tail and belly.
- Press following the instructions on the skein/ball band, or cover with damp cloths and leave until dry.
- Stocking stitch has a natural tendency to curl towards the wrong side at the sides.
- Adding the crochet edging and blocking the sweater as instructed will help to minimize this but some yarns will maintain the curl more than others.
- With RS of the collar (WS of the sweater) facing, using mattress stitch and Yarn A, join the collar seam for 5.5 (6:6) cm or 2.1”(2.5:2.5) inches taking one stitch into the seam at each side so that the 1×1 rib is continuous all the way around.
- Reverse the sweater.
- With RS of the sweater (WS of collar) facing, using mattress stitch and yarn a, continue to join the collar seam to the end of the 1×1 rib, again taking one stitch into the seam at each side.
- Fasten off Yarn A.
- Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam from the top of the 1×1 rib of the collar to the marker between the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows (joining the 9th (9th and 12th) rows ends the seam), taking the crochet edging into the seam at each side.
- Fasten off Yarn C.
- Leave the seam open between the markers at the 9th and 10th (9th and 10th: 12th and 13th) rows and at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows.
- Using mattress stitch and Yarn C, join the belly and back seam, starting at the markers at the 34th and 35th (42nd and 43rd: 49th and 50th) rows (joining the 35th(43rd: 50th) rows starts the seam) and ending at the last row of the belly rib, matching the belly to the back row for row.
- Take the crochet edging into the seam at each side along the stocking stitch and half a stitch at the side edge for the belly rib.
- Join the other side edge of the belly to the other side edge of the back to match.
- Fold collar in half to RS of the sweater.