Men’s Chunky Knit Jumper Pattern {Staghorn Cable}
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.You will see a men’s chunky knit jumper knitting pattern in this post.
This thick sweater is a great project for intermediate knitters who love big squishy cables on jumpers.
Scroll down to view the free pattern or you can grab the printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.
A Cozy Chunky Men’s Knit Jumper
This taupe-colored sweater has a staghorn cable design that can be worn repeatedly during autumn/winter.
Pair it with jeans, your favorite pair of boots, and a hat while going for a coffee with friends or a walk around town with your dog.
Oversized and comfy, this sweater will feel extra cozy when there is a chill in the air.
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Grab the printable PDF pattern
Scroll down to view the free pattern or you can grab the printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.
Grab The Ad-Free Printable PDF Pattern Here
The yarn I used for the chunky sweater
I made the sweater using The Wool from We Are Knitters in the color taupe.
They have lots of great colors to choose from, so you can choose your favorite!
The yarn weight is number 6, super bulky/super chunky/14 ply.
Chunky sweaters and chunky knits in general are great for the winter months.
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
This pattern is great for intermediate knitters who love knitting cables.
- Knitting cast-on methods.
- Knitting Lessons
- How to cast on knitting.
- How to cast off knitting.
- How to knit the garter stitch.
- How to knit the purl stitch.
- How to knit stockinette stitch.
- How to read knitting patterns.
- Knitting abbreviations and terms.
- How to knit rib stitch.
- How to K2tog.
- 8 Cable stitch patterns.
Men’s Chunky Knit Jumper Pattern
Grab your inexpensive ad-free, PDF printable pattern in my shop here.
Grab The Pattern Bundle With 10 Men’s Patterns Here
Notes
This sweater knitting pattern will work up into the perfect slouchy warm knit you need to stay cozy!
The sweater features a large staghorn cable design on the front, with ribbed cuffs and a high ribbed collar.
If you like this pattern you may also enjoy this women’s pattern – Oversized chunky knit sweater pattern.
And…if you prefer a simple sweater you may like this men’s sweater pattern (garter stitch).
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- Do NOT use copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C please read my Terms of Use.
Skill Level – Intermediate
Sweater Size Information
Adult/Woman/Man
S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
To fit bust/chest size as follows:
- S – 32 inches/80 cm
- M – 36 inches/90 cm
- L – 40 inches/100 cm
- XL – 44 inches/100 cm
- 2XL – 48 inches/120 cm
- 3XL – 52 inches/130 cm
In the photographs, the model is wearing a large size (L – 40 inches/100 cm).
The pattern is written for all sizes starting with the small size – with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.
To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
Pattern Notes
- The sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and 2 Sleeves.
- Each piece is worked in one stitch pattern from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a ribbed lower band.
- Circular needles are used to accommodate the number of stitches.
- Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.
Gauge – 6 sts x 8 rows = 4×4 inches /10×10 cm in stocking stitch – with the 15mm (US 19) needles.
The Supplies You Need…
Yarn
- Super bulky yarn/Super chunky yarn/14-ply yarn.
- We Are Knitters – The Wool (200g/87 yds/80m) in Taupe x 6, (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls.
- Learn how to substitute yarn here.
Needles
- 12mm (US 17) knitting needles.
- 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- I used my set of interchangeable circular needles and a set of 15mm (US 19) circulars also, as there were many stitches to cast on and it was easier to use the cables.
- I also used spare cables with end caps to hold spare stitches when needed.
Notions
Abbreviations
- Beg = Beginning
- CO = Cast on
- Cont = Continue(ing)
- Dec = Decrease (Cast off or K2tog/P2tog)
- Foll = Following
- K = Knit
- K2tog = Knit the next 2 stitches together
- P = Purl
- P2tog = Purl the next 2 stitches together
- Rem = Remaining
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right side
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- St, St = Stocking Stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row)
- WS = Wrong side
Stitch Explanation
1 x 1 ribbing = K1, P1 (It is obtained by alternating knit and purl stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row.
This means that we make a knit stitch when the previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch when the previous one looks like a bump.
Cast On: even number of stitches.
- Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows.
Cable Stitch Abbreviations
- C4F = (cable 4 front)- slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
- C4B = (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Sweater Pattern
Back
With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Row 1 (RS): K to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): P to the end of the row.
Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
Still working in stocking stitch…
- Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, K to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, P to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.
Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.
End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle/stitch holder or cable with end caps.
Front
With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles and work the following:
- Row 1 (RS): K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14), P2, K4, C4B, C4F, K4, P2, K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14).
- Row 2 (WS): P8, (P9, P10, P12, P13, P14), K2, P16, K2, P8, (P9, P10, P12, P13, P14).
- Row 3: K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14), P2, K2, C4B, K4, C4F, K2, P2, K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14).
- Row 4: Rep Row 2.
- Row 5: K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14), P2, C4B, K8, C4F, P2, K8, (K9, K10, K12, K13, K14).
- Row 6: Rep row 2.
These 6 rows form the cable pattern.
Cont to repeat rows 1 – 6 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
Still working in the established cable stitch pattern…
- Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.
Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.
End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.
- On the next RS row, work in patt for 6 sts, then place the central 8, (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts for the neck onto a stitch holder, then place the remaining 6 sts onto another stitch holder.
- There will be 6 sts on either side of the neck.
- Each side of the neck will now be worked separately.
Shape Neck
Keeping the raglan shaping correct, work the following:
- Row 1: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Row 2: Work in patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2tog twice. (Depending on your rem sts you may have to P2tog twice)
- Row 3: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Cast off rem 4 sts.
With RS of work facing you – place the 6 sts from the st holder onto the needles and rejoin the yarn for the other side of the neck.
Reverse the shaping as follows:
- Row 1: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Row 2: K2tog, K2tog, work in patt to the end of the row. (Depending on your rem sts you may have to P2tog twice)
- Row 3: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Cast off the rem 4 sts.
Left Sleeve
With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 14 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Row 1 (RS): K to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): P to the end of the row.
Cont to knit in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1-2 until the piece measures 4 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Sleeves
Please note – (Cont to work in st, st).
Row 1 (RS): KFB into the first and last stitch of the row. (2 sts increased)
Rep row 1 (increasing 2 sts) on every foll 8th (6th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 4th) row, 3 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5) more times. 22 (24, 24, 26, 30, 30) sts.
Cont to work in patt until sleeve measures 15.5 (16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches from the co edge.
*At this point check that you are happy with the length of the sleeves – they should start just below the underarm. If you need to make them longer, work more rows, but if you prefer a shorter sleeve you may need to pull out (frog) a few rows.
Shape Raglan
Please note – Cont in st, st
- Row 1(RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, work in patt to end.
- Row 2: Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, work in patt to end.
- Row 3: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Row 4: Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Row 5: Dec row (RS): Cast off 1 st, work in patt to last 2 sts, cast off 1 st. (2 sts decreased)
- Row 6: (WS): Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Rep rows 3-6 until you have 14 sts
- Now work in st st – rows 5-6 only until you have 6 sts.
- Cast off 3 sts – work in patt to the end of the row.
- Work in patt to the end of the row.
- Cast off rem 3 sts.
Right Sleeve
Work as for the left sleeve until you have 6 sts left on the needle.
Shape Raglan
- K 3 sts, cast off the rem 3 sts, break yarn, and secure.
- Rejoin the yarn to the first stitch and P to the end of the row.
- Cast off rem 3 sts.
Making Up
Tutorial
You can find a mattress stitch tutorial here – The Mattress Stitch – Sewing up knitting tutorial.
Tip
It’s best to work on a large surface (like a dining table or desk) so you can lie the pieces out flat and see where you will be seaming.
Step 1
Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 2
Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 3
Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 4
Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.
With the RS of work facing you, use the 12mm (US 17) knitting needles and do the following:
- Pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
- Then K across the 8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts from the stitch holder at center front.
- Then pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
- Finally K across the 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts from spare stitch holder at the back.
Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 6 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.
Cast off the rem sts in rib.
Step 5
Join rem back raglan seam and cont up the neck ribbing.
Step 6
Join side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.
Then you can weave in any leftover loose ends.
I also like to use a lint roller to clean the garment afterward in case of any fluff, pet hair, etc!
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