Men’s Aran Sweater Knitting Pattern
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.In this post, you will see a men’s Aran sweater knitting pattern.
This raglan sweater is knit in several cable stitch patterns with ribbed lower bands, neck, and cuffs.
Scroll down to view the free pattern, or grab the inexpensive printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.
Where Do Aran Sweaters Come From?
This type of sweater design is also known as a fisherman’s sweater.
They originated in the Aran Islands in Connemara, off the west coast of Ireland.
The sweaters were traditionally knit in sheep’s wool in a natural color – either off-white or cream.
Make Your Aran Sweater
The Men’s Aran Sweater Knitting Pattern is a timeless celebration of traditional heritage stitches and the authentic Aran craftsmanship that has been passed down through previous generations.
Each stitch carries a different meaning deeply rooted in the history of the Wild Atlantic Coast of Ireland.
These traditional stitches, inspired by Celtic art and the rugged island environment, symbolize the strength, resilience, and spirit of our ancestors.
The sweater is designed with a strong element of flexibility, offering a gentle stretch for a lifetime of comfort and a perfect fit to the chest of your favorite sweater.
Made from natural wool, it embodies a unique quality that ensures warmth and durability while honoring the authenticity of genuine Aran designs.
Whether you’re knitting this for yourself or as a meaningful gift, the pattern’s texture and famous heritage provide a famous look inspired by sweater history.
A Symbol of Typical Irish Sweaters
Originally, this type of sweater was knit by family members for the island men who worked as fishermen and farmers.
They used pure new wool – sheep’s wool as it retained natural oils, making it waterproof and perfect for a day on the boat in the Irish weather.
Many knitters have designed garments with Irish knitwear as their main inspiration, looking at both the warmth and comfort these particular pieces can bring.
The yarn I used
I made the sweater using Lion Brand Wool-Ease in the color Natural Heather.
The yarn weight is medium #4 and is a blend of fibers – 80% acrylic and 20% wool.
You can match any yarn to be used with the needle sizes given in the pattern (4 mm/US 6 and 5 mm needles/US 8 needles).
The Design Inspiration
This fisherman knit sweater design was inspired by an Aran knit sweater seen worn by actor Graham McTavish in the TV show Men In Kilts.
Although this type of sweater is seen to belong more to Aran Island knitwear than Scottish clans, they have, on occasion, been seen worn with a kilt.
Instead of the honeycomb cable, I used a diamond cable for the main design feature.
Alongside the main diamond cable in the center of each panel, there are simple cable twists (fisherman’s ropes) on either side, then moss stitch borders.
The details in the men’s Aran sweater…
The sleeves of the sweater are raglan, which means that each sleeve extends in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone.
Cable stitch patterns are used for the main panel detail as you can see in the photographs.
The neckline is created by picking up stitches once the pieces are sewn together, then knitting in 1×1 ribbing to create the neck.
The seams are sewn together using the mattress stitch for an invisible join.
You can see the full instructions and measurements in inches and cm below (including the chest circumference).
What Do The Stitches In Aran Knitting Represent?
The most commonly seen stitch pattern in an Aran sweater is the cable, which has many variations.
These are said to symbolize fishermen’s ropes, often knit in vertical columns.
Lattice or Basket stitches represent the fisherman’s basket, giving the hopes of safety and good luck while at sea.
The diamond stitch represents the shapes of fishing net mesh and is a traditional symbol of wealth and good fortune.
The moss stitch is used to symbolize abundance and growth. It is often used as a filler in diamonds, but in this design, it is used on either side of each main piece.
How To Wear An Aran Sweater?
This fisherman sweater is a timeless design that can be worn repeatedly during autumn or winter.
Wear it with your favorite pair of jeans, boots, and an accessory like a beanie or cap while walking with your dog.
The wearer will be warm and cozy; this original hand-knit sweater will be perfect when there is a chill in the air.
Almost as if you are in the Irish countryside, in Dublin, Kilkenny, or County Donegal, you can wear your Aran crafts with pride when you go out and about in your sweater.
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern
This pattern is great for any intermediate knitters.
- Knitting cast-on methods
- Knitting Lessons
- How to cast on knitting
- How to cast off knitting for total beginners (step by step)
- How to knit garter stitch
- How to knit the purl stitch (for beginners + a video tutorial)
- How to knit stockinette stitch (for beginners)
- How to read knitting patterns for beginners
- Knitting abbreviations and terms (US and UK)
- How to knit rib stitch patterns (1×1 and 2×2 ribbing)
- KFB knitting – How to make an increase
- How to knit two stitches together (K2tog)
- 8 Cable Stitch Knitting Patterns
Men’s Aran Sweater Knitting Pattern
Grab your inexpensive, ad-free, PDF printable pattern in my shop here.
Grab The Men’s Pattern Bundle Here With 10 Patterns
Notes
Skill Level – Intermediate
This Aran sweater knitting pattern will work into the perfect cable knit you need to stay cozy!
The sweater features an intricate cable design on the front, back, and sleeves with ribbed lower bands, cuffs, and a ribbed collar.
If you like this pattern, you may also enjoy Free Men’s Sweater Knitting Pattern (Roger’s Sweater).
You can view all of the other Outlander Men’s Knits Here.
*Please note this pattern had an update in May 2025.
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, please provide a link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.
Size Information
Adult/Woman/Man
To fit bust/chest size as follows:
- 34 inches/86 cm
- 36 inches/91 cm
- 38 inches/97 cm
- 40 inches/102 cm
- 42 inches/107 cm
- 44 inches/112 cm
Actual Measurement
- 38.5 inches/98 cm
- 40 inches/102 cm
- 43.75 inches/111 cm
- 45.25 inches/115 cm
- 47.25 inches/120 cm
- 48.75 inches/124 cm
Full Length
- 27.25 inches/69 cm
- 27.25 inches/69 cm
- 28.25 inches/72 cm
- 28.25 inches/72 cm
- 29.25 inches/74 cm
- 29.25 inches/74 cm
Sleeve Length
- 17.25 inches/44 cm
- 17.75 inches/45 cm
- 18 inches/46 cm
- 19 inches/48 cm
- 19 inches/48 cm
- 19 inches/48 cm
*Please note the sleeve length is adjustable.
In the photographs, the model is wearing a size – 42 inches/107 cm).
The pattern is written for all sizes, starting with the smallest size and with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.
To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
Pattern Notes
- The sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and 2 Sleeves.
- Each piece is worked from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a ribbed lower band.
- Circular needles are used to accommodate the number of stitches.
- Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.
The Supplies You Need
Yarn
- Lion Brand Wool-Ease – (85g/197 yds/180m) in Natural Heather x 6, (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls.
- Yards of worsted weight yarn = 1,182 (1,379, 1,379, 1,576, 1,576, 1,773).
- Medium Yarn #4
- This yarn is 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool.
Needles
- 4 mm (US 6) knitting needles.
- 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles.
- Cable needle.
- I used my set of interchangeable circular needles as there were many stitches to cast on, and it was easier.
- I also used spare cables with end caps to hold spare stitches when needed.
- This is the needle set I use for most projects – Interchangeable Circular Needle Set
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle
- Scissors
- Stitch holders x 3 or spare cables with end caps
Gauge – 18 sts x 24 rows = 4×4 inches /10×10 cm over moss stitch – with the 5 mm (US 8) needles.
Abbreviations
- Beg = Beginning
- CO = Cast on
- Cont = Continue(ing)
- Dec = Decrease
- Foll = Following
- Inc = Increase (normally with KFB)
- KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch
- K = Knit
- K2tog = Knit the next two stitches together
- K3tog = Knit the next three stitches together
- M1PL = Make one stitch purlwise left
- P = Purl
- P2tog = Purl the next two stitches together
- PM = Place marker
- PSSO = Pass slipped stitch over
- Rem = Remaining
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right side
- SL = Slip one stitch
- SSK = Slip, slip, knit
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- SM = Slip marker
- WS = Wrong side
- Work each stitch in the manner it presents = This means to work each stitch as it faces you – you will knit the knit stitches and purl the purls.
Cable Stitch Abbreviations
- C4B – (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
- C6B – (cable 6 back) – slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
- C4L – Cable 4 left by slipping the next 3 sts to the front on cable needle, K1, K3 from the cable needle.
- C4R – Cable 4 right by slipping the next st to the back on the cable needle, K3, K1 from the cable needle.
- C4LP – Cross 4 left by slipping the next 3 sts to the front on the cable needle, P1, K3 from the cable needle.
- C4RP – Cross 4 right by slipping the next st to back on the cable needle, K3, P1 from the cable needle.
Video Tutorials
Stitch Pattern Notes
1 x 1 ribbing
K1, P1 (It is obtained by alternating knit and purl stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row.
This means that we make a knit stitch when the previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch when the previous looks like a bump.)
Cast On: even number of stitches.
- Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows.
Moss Stitch
British Moss Stitch / Seed Stitch requires you to alternate knit and purl stitches row-by-row.
For an odd number of cast-on stitches, you simply start the next row with the stitch you ended with on the previous row.
Be careful if you end on a knit stitch and start on a purl stitch; you’ll end up creating a rib stitch pattern.
Cast on an even number of stitches (multiples of two).
1st Row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.
2nd Row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Continue repeating rows 1 – 2 until you have completed your desired number of rows.
Men’s Cable Knit Sweater Pattern
Back
With 4 mm (US 6) knitting needles, CO 86 (90, 98, 102, 106, 110) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge.
Change to 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles and proceed as follows;
Foundation Row 1 (RS): *P1, K1 – rep from * 9 (11, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts, PM, P4, K6, P4, PM, P2, K4, P2, PM, P9, K6, P9, PM, P2, K4, P2, PM, P4, K6, P4, PM, *K1, P1 – rep from * 9 (11, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts to end.
Foundation Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1 – rep from * 9 (11, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K9, P6, K9, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, *P1, K1 – rep from * 9 (11, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts to end.
Now, you will continue in the following cable pattern:
- Row 1 (RS): P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P9, C6B, P9, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 2 (WS): Work in moss stitch (K1, P1) to the first marker, SM, then work each stitch in the manner it presents, slipping the markers until you get to the final marker, SM, and work in moss stitch (P1, K1) to end.
- Row 3: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4R, C4L, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 4: Rep Row 2.
- Row 5: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P7, C4R, K2, C4L, P7, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 6: Rep Row 2.
- Row 7: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P6, C4R, K4, C4L, P6, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 8: Rep Row 2.
- Row 9: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P5, C4R, K6, C4L, P5, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 10: Rep Row 2.
- Row 11: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, C4R, K8, C4L, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 12: Rep Row 2.
- Row 13: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P3, C4R, K10, C4L, P3, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 14: Rep Row 2.
- Row 15: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P2, C4R, K12, C4L, P2, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 16: Rep Row 2.
- Row 17: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P2, C4LP, K12, C4RP, P2, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 18: Rep Row 2.
- Row 19: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P3, C4LP, K10, C4RP, P3, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 20: Rep Row 2.
- Row 21: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, C4LP, K8, C4RP, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 22: Rep Row 2.
- Row 23: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P5, C4LP, K6, C4RP, P5, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 24: Rep Row 2.
- Row 25: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P6, C4LP, K4, C4RP, P6, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 26: Rep Row 2.
- Row 27: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P7, C4LP, K2, C4RP, P7, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 28: Rep Row 2.
- Row 29: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4LP, C4RP, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
- Row 30: Rep Row 2.
Rows 1-30 form the cable pattern; rep those rows until your back piece measures 17.25 (17, 17.25, 17, 17.25, 17) inches, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
Still working in the cable pattern as established…
- Row 1 (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 82 (86, 93, 97, 100, 104) sts.
- Row 2 (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 78 (82, 88, 92, 94, 98) sts.
- Row 3 (RS): K1, SSK, work in patt to the last 3 sts K2tog, K1.
- Row 4 (WS): P2, work in patt to the last 2 sts, P2.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 working in the established pattern and forming new patterns as the stitches decline until you have 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts left.
Leave these rem sts on a spare needle/stitch holder or cable with end caps.
Front
Work as given for back until you have 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts.
Shape Neck
Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, work in patt for 13 sts, leave rem 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts on a stitch holder.
Working on these 13 sts only, proceed as follows:
Next row: (WS): P1, P2tog, patt to last 2 sts P2.
Work 4 rows, dec 1 st at the raglan edge as before in every row, AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at neck edge in every row.
Next Row: K1, SL, K2tog, PSSO.
Next Row: P2tog. Fasten off.
With the right side facing work on the rem 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts, slip 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts onto a stitch holder, rejoin the yarn to the rem 14 sts and work in patt to the last 3 sts, dec 1 stitch at the raglan edge as before, K2tog, K1.
Next Row (WS): Work in patt to the last 3 sts at the neck edge, P2tog, P1.
Work 4 rows, dec 1 st at neck edge in every row AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at the raglan edge as before in every row.
Next Row: K3tog, k1.
Next Row: P2tog. Fasten off.
Sleeves (Make 2 The Same)
With 4 mm (US 6) knitting needles CO 38 (38, 42, 42, 46, 46) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending with a RS row.
Next row: Rib 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7), (M1PL, Rib 1) 32 times, Rib 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7). 70 (70, 74, 74, 78, 78) sts.
Change to 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles and proceed as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts, PM, P4, C6B, P4, PM, P2, C4B, P2, PM, P9, C6B, P9, PM, P2, C4B, P2, PM, P4, C6B, P4, PM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
- Row 2 (WS): Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts to marker, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K9, P6, K9, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
- Row 3: Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4R, C4L, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
- Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Keeping continuity of patt set (following the original cable pattern for the back piece) and working the moss st patt set at the beg and end of each row.
Starting with the 5th row you will now increase.
Row 5: Inc 1 st at each end of next row (working in cable patt as established).
Cont to increase 1 st at each end of every foll 8th (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row to 82 (84, 90, 92, 94, 96)sts. Make new moss st patts at either side of the main cable patt as you increase.
Cont without shaping until the sleeve measures 17.25 (17.5, 18, 19, 19, 19) inches or the length required, ending with a WS row.
*Please note – you can adjust the sleeve length here to make it longer or shorter according to your own preferences.
Shape Raglan
Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts in patt at beg of next 2 rows. 74 (76, 80, 82, 82, 84) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K1, SSK, work in patt to the last 3 sts K2tog, K1.
Row 2 (WS): P2, work in patt to the last 2 sts, P2.
Cont to work rows 1 and 2 until you have 28 sts on the needle.
Leave the rem 28 sts on a st holder.
Making Up / Finishing
Seaming Tutorial
You can find a mattress stitch tutorial here – The Mattress Stitch – How To Seam Knitting
Tip
It’s best to work on a large surface (like a dining table or desk) so you can lay the pieces out flat and see where you will be seaming.
Blocking
I would recommend blocking the pieces before seaming or after, but blocking will make sure the size is correct.
Related Post: Blocking Knits – How To Block Knitting Guide
Step 1
Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 2
Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 3
Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 4
Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.
With the RS of work facing you, use the 4mm (US 6) knitting needles and do the following:
Work across the 28sts left on the st holder at the top left sleeve as follows: (K1, K2tog) 9 times, K1, pick up and knit 6 sts evenly along the left side of neck, work across 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30)sts left on the stitch holder at front of the neck as follows: K1 (2, 3, 0, 1, 2), K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6) times, K1 (2, 3, 0, 1, 2), pick up and knit 6 sts evenly along the right side of neck, work across the 28 sts left on the st holder at the top right of the sleeve as follows: (K1, K2tog) 9 times, K1 and work across 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts left on the stitch holder at the back of the neck as follows: K3 (4, 5, 2, 3, 4), K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8)times, K3 (4, 5, 2, 3, 4). 90 (94, 98, 98, 102, 106) sts.
Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 4 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.
Step 5
Join rem back raglan seam and cont up the neck ribbing (reversing the seam for the rem half, so it looks neat when turned over).
Step 6
Fold neck ribbing in half to WS and catch down loosely on the WS. This creates a folded-over collar (crew neck) with a neat edge.
Step 7
Join side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.
Then, you can weave in any leftover loose ends.
I also like to use a lint roller to clean the garment afterward in case of any fluff, pet hair, etc.
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Scroll down to view the free pattern that includes the stitch glossary and the full details, or grab the inexpensive printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.
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Sized to your needs, the pattern includes details to create a specific size sweater, ensuring every stitch reflects the key elements of our ancestors while offering a traditional yet modern pullover neck.
The design ties closely to clan Aran knitting patterns, evoking imagery of clan scarves, clan baby blankets, clan cushion covers, and clan throws.
Perfect for any knitter seeking to create something with both authenticity and enduring charm, this pattern offers the chance to bring the meaning of Aran stitches to life in a way that connects you to the rich history and traditions of Ireland.
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I’d love to see your work!
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