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Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern

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In this blog post, you will see a crochet beach cover-up pattern.

This beach cover-up is perfect for summer days thrown over swimwear.

Available to make in 8 sizes – XS to 5XL.

Please scroll down to view the free pattern online, or grab the inexpensive, ad-free PDF in my shop here.

crochet beach cover up

What Is The Best Yarn For A Crochet Beach Cover Up?

The best yarn for a crochet beach cover up is typically a lightweight, breathable cotton or cotton-blend yarn.

Cotton is ideal because it’s absorbent, soft against the skin, and holds its shape well—even when wet.

Look for yarns labeled as DK (double knitting), sport, or worsted weight, depending on how airy or structured you want your cover up to be.

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, for example, is a popular choice for its vibrant color range, durability, and smooth finish.

If you prefer added drape or a slightly more luxurious feel, cotton-linen or bamboo blends can also work beautifully.

Always make a swatch to test the yarn’s feel, stretch, and stitch definition before starting your project.

crochet beach cover up pattern

Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern

This stylish crochet cover-up pattern is perfect for advanced beginners looking to add a touch of elegance, comfort, and versatility to their beach attire.

Designed as a lightweight and breathable swimsuit cover up, the garment is made from two long panels (front and back) that are seamed together to create a relaxed yet stylish ensemble.

Whether you’re heading from the beach to a beachside cafe or just lounging poolside, this coverup offers the right amount of cover with beautiful texture and drape.

Pattern Notes

Skill Level – Easy (Advanced Beginner)

The dress is made in two pieces – the front and back.

Both pieces have a double crochet border which adds extra width and length.

The front and back are then seamed together with a double crochet edging added to finish off the armholes and neck.

The pattern is written for all sizes, starting with the XS size – with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.

To follow patterns more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

crochet beach cover up pattern back view

Copyright Info

  • Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern. 
  • If you wish to share this pattern, please provide a link to the pattern page only.
  • You may sell items produced using this pattern.
  • Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
  • For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.

Size information

Gauge

9 treble crochet sts / 5 rows in 4×4 inches using the 5mm (US H/8) crochet hook and the Pima Cotton from WAK in treble crochet.

Measurements/Sizes

  • XS – To fit bust 34 inches.
  • S – To fit bust 36 inches.
  • M – To fit bust 38 inches.
  • L – To fit bust 40 inches.
  • XL – To fit bust 42 inches.
  • 2XL – To fit bust 44 inches.
  • 3XL – To fit bust 46 inches.
  • 4XL/5XL – To fit bust 48 inches.
  • The dress measures – length to shoulders around = 39 (39, 39, 39.5, 39.5, 40, 40, 40.5) inches.
crochet beach cover up close up

The supplies you need…

Yarn

  • 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) x We Are Knitters – The Cotton in the color Natural.
  • This cotton is 100% Pima Cotton/10g/3.05oz/232 yds/212m.
  • Use my code – MGM4VHHAT – for 10 off on your WAK yarn order.

Hook

Notions

crochet beach dress and crochet bucket hat

Abbreviations

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

You can grab a free list of US and UK crochet terms here.

  • ch – chain
  • dc – double crochet
  • sl-st- slip stitch
  • st – stitch
  • tr – treble crochet
  • tr2tog – treble crochet two stitches together
  • RS – right side
  • Rep – repeat
  • WS – wrong side
crochet beach cover up pattern and sun hat

Beach Dress Crochet Pattern Instructions

Back

** Ch 78 (84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120)

Set up

Work 1 dc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc into each ch to end. 77 (83, 89, 95, 101, 107, 113, 119) sts.

Start Pattern

Row 1: 4 ch, for the first tr and ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr into next st, * 1 ch, miss 1 st, 1 tr into next st, rep from * to end.

Row 2: 4 ch for the first tr and ch, 1 tr into next tr, * 1 ch, miss 1 ch, 1 tr into 1 tr, rep from * to end working last tr into 3rd of 4 ch, turn,

Rep row 2 until the work measures: 15 (15, 15, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17,) inches from the setup row.

Next row (decrease row): 4 ch for the first tr and ch, 1 tr into next tr, 1 ch, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, patt to last 7 sts, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, 1 tr into next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr into the last st. 75 (81, 87, 93, 99, 105, 111, 117)

Continue without further decreases until the work measures 25 inches from the start of the setup row, finishing on a wrong side row.
(* You can adjust the length here – if you want to make it shorter or longer)

Shape Armholes

Next row: sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,

Next row: 4 ch for first tr and ch, 1 tr into next tr, 1 ch, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, patt to the last 7 sts, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, 1 tr into next tr, into last st.

Rep the last row twice more – 57 (63, 69, 75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts. **
Cont without further dec until the armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulders and Back of Neck

Next row: sl st over 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts, patt over 13 (13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts, fasten off.

Miss the next 15 (21, 27, 33, 27, 33, 39, 45) sts for neck edge, rejoin yarn into next st, patt over 13 (13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts.

Fasten off.

You should have 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts remaining for the shoulder edge.

The Edging

With the right side of the work facing you, rejoin the yarn at the start of the armhole shaping.

Work 1 row of dc evenly down the left side edge, round the lower edge, and up the right side edge, to the start of the armhole shaping, working 2 dc into the end of each of 2 rows and 3 dc into the end of the next row.

Work 2 more rows in dc, working 3 dc into each corner st and turning with 1 ch.

Fasten off.

bucket hat crochet pattern

Front

Work exactly as instructions for the back from ** to **.

Cont without further dec until armhole measures 2 inches less than back armhole to shoulder shaping.

Next row: Patt across 18 (20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts, turn,

Cont over these sts as follows:

Next row: 4 ch for the first tr and ch, 1 tr into next tr, 1 ch, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, patt to end.

Cont without further dec until armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.

Shape Shoulder

Next row: sl st over 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts, patt to end, fasten off.

Miss 21 (23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35) sts for neck edge, rejoin yarn to rem 18 (20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts, and work to correspond with the other side, reversing all shaping

Work the dc border around the sides and lower edge the same as for the back piece.

crochet beach cover up side panel view

Finishing

Join the shoulder seams by backstitching.

The Neckband

With the right side of the work facing you, rejoin the yarn.

Work 1 row of dc evenly around the neck edge, turn with 1 ch.

Work 1 more row of dc.

Fasten off.

The Armhole Edges

Work the armhole edges in the same manner as the neck.

Side Seams

Join side seams using the mattress stitch, leaving 10 or 12 inches open at the lower edge of each side seam.

Helpful Resources

This pattern is great for advanced beginners.

You might also want to make matching accessories…

You may also want to make a matching beach bag and a bucket hat to take with you on vacation!

View those patterns here:

crochet beach cover up and bucket hat

Could you share your work with us?

If you enjoyed making the crochet beach cover-up, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme or #handylittleme.

If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook group and share a photo.

I’d love to see your work!

Free Crochet Patterns

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33 Comments

  1. great dress and cover up for the beach
    the simple stitches used stand out with chain space between the treble
    the side panel with chain also help make the front and back panel stitches stand out
    worked in white the cover up stands with tan
    this cover up will make feel you are walking the golden sands of the Caribbean

  2. I have a question about the pattern:

    “Next row: sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,”

    What does it mean to “pattern to”?
    Thank you!

    1. Hello Brittany,
      That means to work in the pattern, so if you have been working in a particular stitch pattern for that section (for example TR – treble crochet) you would continue in that.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise

  3. hi,what a great pattern. i was wondering,do you think i could make as a beach top pullover coverup.
    shortening to mid hip length?the sizing is perfect, i think just adjusting the hem on bottom would work.the cotton yarn used wb beautiful for hot summer days.
    tx so much for your beautiful patterns.

    1. Hello Jen,
      Yes, you could make the length shorter by working fewer rows and stopping at a length you are happy with.
      I”m so happy you like the pattern 🙂
      Louise

  4. I’m having trouble with my gauge. I’m using lion brand 24/7 cotton (what I had available) with the 5mm hook, and my 9 treble sts across are only 2 1/4”. The label for this suggests a 4mm hook, but if I use that I feel like my gauge will be even more off. Any suggestions?

    1. Hello Shannon,
      You could try a larger hook size? 5.5 mm (US 9)?
      That will probably give you the correct gauge…
      I hope that helps,
      Louise

  5. What is the purpose of the 8 slip stitches on the shoulders? There’s no clear images of the shoulders.

  6. Beautiful and fun in sun cover. I have one question, I am a large woman with arm issues, do you know of any tutorial that would let me add maybe a sleeve of some type?
    Thank you Louise
    Nancy

    1. Hello Nance,
      I am thinking that you could add a double crochet border edging to the sleeves in continuos rounds to make a sleeve and do it to any length you desire.
      Once you have seamed the cover-up together and the armholes are ready, you could add the sleeves.
      For a double crochet border edge – here are some instructions…
      Step 1: Join yarn to sleeve
      Begin at the seam of the sleeve or another inconspicuous spot if the sleeve is seamless. Insert your crochet hook into the edge of the sleeve’s fabric.
      With your yarn, pull through a loop to the front, and secure it with a slip stitch. This attaches the yarn to the sleeve.
      Step 2: Starting chain
      Chain 3. This counts as your first double crochet (DC).
      Step 3: Double crochet around
      Continue to double crochet around the edge of the sleeve. To make a double crochet stitch, yarn over (yo), insert the hook into the next stitch or space, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through two loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo and pull through the last two loops.
      The number of stitches you make will depend on the size of the sleeve and the yarn. Aim for a uniform distribution of stitches around the sleeve to avoid bunching or stretching. A good rule of thumb is to place one DC in the end of each row or in each existing stitch if the edge is already defined.
      Step 4: Work in continuous rounds
      Instead of joining each round with a slip stitch, continue to work in a spiral. This creates a seamless border. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, moving it up as you complete each round.
      Step 5: Continue to desired sleeve length
      Keep working in double crochet stitches for as many rounds as you like to achieve the desired sleeve length. For a simple edging, one to three rounds might be sufficient, but you can make it as long as you like.
      Step 6: Finishing the border
      Once you’ve reached the desired length of your sleeve, you can finish off the edge. To do so neatly in continuous rounds, you can use an invisible join or simply make a slip stitch in the next stitch and then cut your yarn, leaving a tail.
      Weave in the end with a yarn needle to secure it.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise

  7. Hello, first of all big thank you for this beautiful pattern.
    I have one question. I am still doing the back panel. And after doing tr for ~12 inches (my preference) it says to decrease with trtog. I know how to trtog but since there is no chain between the “trebles” it looks very close and there isnt any gap at all.
    I am an experienced beginner.
    Much love

    1. Hello Kiki,

      If you zoom in on the photo of the cover up on the website you will see how those tr2tog look and they are quite close together.

      So it sounds as thought you are doing it correctly.

      Look at the photos for reference and to see if your work looks similar.

      Happy crocheting!

      Louise

  8. Great pattern, easy to follow! I customized it to make a 30″ tunic (back length) in Lion’s Coboo, using 3 balls for size small, chosen for machine wash/dry, ease of care. The side slits are about 9″ for the tunic. This is a gift, to which I added pretty flip flops and making a fabric beach bag. Think I’ll make one for ME too!

  9. I’m not exactly sure what it means when it said “Work 1 row of dc evenly down the left side edge, round the lower edge, and up the right side edge, to the start of the armhole shaping, working 2 dc into the end of each of 2 rows and 3 dc into the end of the next row.” could someone help me out

    1. Hi Sky,

      Thank you for your question!

      Let me help clarify that part of the pattern for you.

      When it says, “Work 1 row of dc evenly down the left side edge, round the lower edge, and up the right side edge, to the start of the armhole shaping,” it means you’re crocheting a border along the edges of the garment.

      Start by working double crochet (dc) stitches evenly along the left edge, continuing around the bottom edge, and then up the right edge until you reach the point where the armhole shaping starts.

      The next part, “working 2 dc into the end of each of 2 rows and 3 dc into the end of the next row,” refers to how you should space the stitches as you crochet along the edges.

      For every two rows along the edge, you will work 2 double crochets into the ends of those rows, and then for the third row, you will work 3 double crochets.

      This creates an even border that aligns nicely with the rows of the fabric.

      I hope this clears things up, but if you have more questions, feel free to ask!

      Happy crocheting!

      Louise

  10. Hi I have a question what does it mean (Next row: sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts) I’m confused

    1. Hello Victoria,
      Great question! That part of the pattern is letting you know how many stitches to slip stitch (sl st) across at the beginning of the next row—this helps shape the piece.
      The numbers in the parentheses refer to the stitch counts for different sizes.
      So depending on the size you’re making, you’ll sl st across either 6 or 8 stitches to start the row.
      For example, if you’re making one of the smaller sizes, you’ll sl st over 6 stitches; if you’re making one of the larger sizes, it’ll be 8.

      1. Thank you for responding.i have Another question when I measure my work (16 inches) before the decrease it doesn’t seem long enough, do you have any pictures showing what it should look like?

        1. Hello Victoria, You’re so welcome—happy to help! 😊
          If your piece measures 16 inches before the decrease and it feels a bit short, you’re not alone—this can depend a lot on your height or how you’d like the cover-up to fit.
          It’s designed to be more of a midi length, but feel free to add a few extra rows before decreasing if you’d like more coverage!
          As for photos, the blog post includes a few images that show how the cover-up should look at various stages. 💕🧶

  11. Hoping you can help me! I have completed both the front and back sides of the beach cover up, but I’m confused as to how to join the shoulder seams together. When each of the shoulders is shaped, you end up on each side and each shoulder with a 1 row higher “bump” than the rest of the shoulder. When the shoulders are joined together, are we to join the bumps on the front to the bumps in the back, or are the bumps on the back supposed to be joined with the part of the shoulder that doesn’t contain the bump on n the front? This probably isn’t worded well, but I hope you can follow my meaning! Thank you! I’m really looking forward to finishing this!

    1. Hi there Rebecca! Thanks so much for your question—and for making the beach cover-up pattern, I’m so glad to hear you’re nearly finished!

      Yes, I understand exactly what you mean about the “bump” that results from shaping the shoulders.

      When you’re joining the shoulder seams, you should align the bumps on the front piece with the corresponding bumps on the back piece.

      These raised rows result from the shaping process and should match up when sewn together, giving you a smooth and even seam across the shoulders.

      Use a whip stitch or slip stitch seam (whichever you prefer), going through both loops of each stitch to keep it neat and secure.

      This method helps maintain the shape and structure of the garment once it’s worn.

      I hope that helps!

      Louise

  12. Hi again, I have another question on this section sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) ( sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,” )
    I know to do tr after I slip st at the beginning but what do I do here ( sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,” )

    1. Hi Victoria,

      Thanks so much for your question — I’m happy to help!

      In that line:
      “sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,”
      – the numbers in brackets refer to different sizes.

      Once you’ve slip stitched across the beginning stitches (to shape the armhole), you then:

      Work in pattern (following the same stitch pattern as before).

      Continue until you have 6 (or 8 depending on your size) stitches remaining at the end of the row.

      Then stop, and turn your work — you don’t crochet into those last 6/8 stitches.

      This creates shaping at both ends of the row (for the armholes or neckline), and the slip stitches help raise your starting point.

      I hope that helps,
      Louise

  13. Hi, Louise! I’m stuck on shaping the shoulders and back of neck of the back panel. I did the row that says “sl st over 8, patt over 13 sts, fasten off.” Now I’m confused as to how to do the next step: “Miss the next 27 sts for neck edge, rejoin yarn into
    next st, patt over 13 sts.” Does ‘miss’ mean skip 27 sts and then rejoin the yarn in the next stitch? I’m just afraid that I’m not doing this part right because I can’t see what it’s supposed to look like at this point. I can see the end result pictures of the whole project, but I can’t see the back of the neck in the photos. (This is my first major work btw!) At this point, the work is starting to look almost like a halter top (if the back was the front). Is that right? I have the little “ledges” of 3 tr sts to shape the armholes, then decrease rows. The last row I worked has 28 sts which includes the 8 sl sts, 7 tr sts (pattern over 13 sts), and the stitches on the last row after the fasten off. I guess I just don’t know where to start again after I’ve fastened off. I hope this all makes sense and I really look forward to your advice. Thanks!

    1. Hi Autumn! Thank you so much for your thoughtful message—and huge congrats on taking on your first major project! 🎉 That’s a big achievement, and it sounds like you’re doing really well so far 😊

      You’re exactly right about the instructions: when it says “miss the next 27 sts for neck edge,” that means you’ll skip those 27 stitches—they form the space for the neckline. Then, you’ll rejoin your yarn into the next (28th) stitch and continue working the pattern over the next 13 stitches for the other shoulder.

      From your description, it does sound like it’s starting to take shape properly! The back will indeed look a bit like a halter top at this stage—those “ledges” of 3 tr sts help shape the armholes just as you noted. So you’re definitely on the right track.

      Don’t worry if it’s a bit hard to visualize—once both shoulders are worked, and the front panels are added and sewn together at the shoulders, the shape will become much clearer.

      You’ve got this! And I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern so far 🧶🌞 Let me know if you need any more help!

      1. Hi again, Louise! Thank you so much for responding so quickly! But unfortunately I’m still stuck. I think I made a mistake earlier in the piece that’s causing issues where I’m at now; shaping the neckline. Would I be able to email a photo of my work to you to clarify if I did make a mistake earlier? Thank you!

        1. Hi there, Autumn! Of course—please feel free to email me a photo of your work, and I’ll take a look to help you figure out what’s going on. I’d be happy to help you get back on track! 😊 Looking forward to seeing your progress! 🧶✨

  14. Hi I’m stuck at this part what does it mean

    Rep the last row twice more – 57 (63, 69, 75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts. **
    Cont without further dec until the armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.

    1. Hi Victoria, Thanks for your question — happy to help 😊

      Here’s what that section means:

      “Rep the last row twice more – 57 (63, 69, 75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts.”
      → You’ll repeat the previous row two more times. After that, you should have the number of stitches indicated in parentheses for your chosen size. For example, if you’re making the third size, you’ll have 69 stitches after repeating.

      “Cont without further dec until the armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.”
      → This means keep working in the established stitch pattern without doing any more decreases until your work measures the specified armhole depth for your size. Be sure to stop after completing a wrong side row (this helps with shaping later on).

      Happy crocheting! 🧶🌞

  15. Hello, I’m on the back panel at the row after the slip stitches, and my question is do I continue slip stitching over to the first trb of the pattern? Instructions says to do the turning chain 4 and trb in 1st treble.
    thank you

    1. Hi Holly!

      After completing the slip stitches, yes — you’ll work the turning chain 4 and then make a treble (trb) into the first treble of the pattern row, continuing as established.

      The slip stitches were just to shape the neckline and won’t be repeated in the following rows.

      Hope that helps, and happy crocheting! 😊