Crochet Beach Cover Up Pattern

37 Comments

1. great dress and cover up for the beach
   the simple stitches used stand out with chain space between the treble
   the side panel with chain also help make the front and back panel stitches stand out
   worked in white the cover up stands with tan
   this cover up will make feel you are walking the golden sands of the Caribbean

   Reply

   1. Hello Jackie,
      So happy you like it!
      Louise

      Reply

2. I have a question about the pattern:

   “Next row: sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,”

   What does it mean to “pattern to”?
   Thank you!

   Reply

   1. Hello Brittany,
      That means to work in the pattern, so if you have been working in a particular stitch pattern for that section (for example TR – treble crochet) you would continue in that.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise

      Reply

3. hi,what a great pattern. i was wondering,do you think i could make as a beach top pullover coverup.
   shortening to mid hip length?the sizing is perfect, i think just adjusting the hem on bottom would work.the cotton yarn used wb beautiful for hot summer days.
   tx so much for your beautiful patterns.

   Reply

   1. Hello Jen,
      Yes, you could make the length shorter by working fewer rows and stopping at a length you are happy with.
      I”m so happy you like the pattern 🙂
      Louise

      Reply

4. I’m having trouble with my gauge. I’m using lion brand 24/7 cotton (what I had available) with the 5mm hook, and my 9 treble sts across are only 2 1/4”. The label for this suggests a 4mm hook, but if I use that I feel like my gauge will be even more off. Any suggestions?

   Reply

   1. Hello Shannon,
      You could try a larger hook size? 5.5 mm (US 9)?
      That will probably give you the correct gauge…
      I hope that helps,
      Louise

      Reply

5. What is the purpose of the 8 slip stitches on the shoulders? There’s no clear images of the shoulders.

   Reply

   1. Hello Sarah,
      This is to shape the shoulders a little.

      Reply

6. Beautiful and fun in sun cover. I have one question, I am a large woman with arm issues, do you know of any tutorial that would let me add maybe a sleeve of some type?
   Thank you Louise
   Nancy

   Reply

   1. Hello Nance,
      I am thinking that you could add a double crochet border edging to the sleeves in continuos rounds to make a sleeve and do it to any length you desire.
      Once you have seamed the cover-up together and the armholes are ready, you could add the sleeves.
      For a double crochet border edge – here are some instructions…
      Step 1: Join yarn to sleeve
      Begin at the seam of the sleeve or another inconspicuous spot if the sleeve is seamless. Insert your crochet hook into the edge of the sleeve’s fabric.
      With your yarn, pull through a loop to the front, and secure it with a slip stitch. This attaches the yarn to the sleeve.
      Step 2: Starting chain
      Chain 3. This counts as your first double crochet (DC).
      Step 3: Double crochet around
      Continue to double crochet around the edge of the sleeve. To make a double crochet stitch, yarn over (yo), insert the hook into the next stitch or space, yo and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through two loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo and pull through the last two loops.
      The number of stitches you make will depend on the size of the sleeve and the yarn. Aim for a uniform distribution of stitches around the sleeve to avoid bunching or stretching. A good rule of thumb is to place one DC in the end of each row or in each existing stitch if the edge is already defined.
      Step 4: Work in continuous rounds
      Instead of joining each round with a slip stitch, continue to work in a spiral. This creates a seamless border. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, moving it up as you complete each round.
      Step 5: Continue to desired sleeve length
      Keep working in double crochet stitches for as many rounds as you like to achieve the desired sleeve length. For a simple edging, one to three rounds might be sufficient, but you can make it as long as you like.
      Step 6: Finishing the border
      Once you’ve reached the desired length of your sleeve, you can finish off the edge. To do so neatly in continuous rounds, you can use an invisible join or simply make a slip stitch in the next stitch and then cut your yarn, leaving a tail.
      Weave in the end with a yarn needle to secure it.
      I hope that helps!
      Louise

      Reply

7. Hello, first of all big thank you for this beautiful pattern.
   I have one question. I am still doing the back panel. And after doing tr for ~12 inches (my preference) it says to decrease with trtog. I know how to trtog but since there is no chain between the “trebles” it looks very close and there isnt any gap at all.
   I am an experienced beginner.
   Much love

   Reply

   1. Hello Kiki,

      If you zoom in on the photo of the cover up on the website you will see how those tr2tog look and they are quite close together.

      So it sounds as thought you are doing it correctly.

      Look at the photos for reference and to see if your work looks similar.

      Happy crocheting!

      Louise

      Reply

8. Great pattern, easy to follow! I customized it to make a 30″ tunic (back length) in Lion’s Coboo, using 3 balls for size small, chosen for machine wash/dry, ease of care. The side slits are about 9″ for the tunic. This is a gift, to which I added pretty flip flops and making a fabric beach bag. Think I’ll make one for ME too!

   Reply

9. I’m not exactly sure what it means when it said “Work 1 row of dc evenly down the left side edge, round the lower edge, and up the right side edge, to the start of the armhole shaping, working 2 dc into the end of each of 2 rows and 3 dc into the end of the next row.” could someone help me out

   Reply

   1. Hi Sky,

      Thank you for your question!

      Let me help clarify that part of the pattern for you.

      When it says, “Work 1 row of dc evenly down the left side edge, round the lower edge, and up the right side edge, to the start of the armhole shaping,” it means you’re crocheting a border along the edges of the garment.

      Start by working double crochet (dc) stitches evenly along the left edge, continuing around the bottom edge, and then up the right edge until you reach the point where the armhole shaping starts.

      The next part, “working 2 dc into the end of each of 2 rows and 3 dc into the end of the next row,” refers to how you should space the stitches as you crochet along the edges.

      For every two rows along the edge, you will work 2 double crochets into the ends of those rows, and then for the third row, you will work 3 double crochets.

      This creates an even border that aligns nicely with the rows of the fabric.

      I hope this clears things up, but if you have more questions, feel free to ask!

      Happy crocheting!

      Louise

      Reply

10. Hi I have a question what does it mean (Next row: sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts) I’m confused

    Reply

    1. Hello Victoria,
       Great question! That part of the pattern is letting you know how many stitches to slip stitch (sl st) across at the beginning of the next row—this helps shape the piece.
       The numbers in the parentheses refer to the stitch counts for different sizes.
       So depending on the size you’re making, you’ll sl st across either 6 or 8 stitches to start the row.
       For example, if you’re making one of the smaller sizes, you’ll sl st over 6 stitches; if you’re making one of the larger sizes, it’ll be 8.

       Reply

       1. Thank you for responding.i have Another question when I measure my work (16 inches) before the decrease it doesn’t seem long enough, do you have any pictures showing what it should look like?

          Reply

          1. Hello Victoria, You’re so welcome—happy to help! 😊
             If your piece measures 16 inches before the decrease and it feels a bit short, you’re not alone—this can depend a lot on your height or how you’d like the cover-up to fit.
             It’s designed to be more of a midi length, but feel free to add a few extra rows before decreasing if you’d like more coverage!
             As for photos, the blog post includes a few images that show how the cover-up should look at various stages. 💕🧶

             Reply

11. Hoping you can help me! I have completed both the front and back sides of the beach cover up, but I’m confused as to how to join the shoulder seams together. When each of the shoulders is shaped, you end up on each side and each shoulder with a 1 row higher “bump” than the rest of the shoulder. When the shoulders are joined together, are we to join the bumps on the front to the bumps in the back, or are the bumps on the back supposed to be joined with the part of the shoulder that doesn’t contain the bump on n the front? This probably isn’t worded well, but I hope you can follow my meaning! Thank you! I’m really looking forward to finishing this!

    Reply

    1. Hi there Rebecca! Thanks so much for your question—and for making the beach cover-up pattern, I’m so glad to hear you’re nearly finished!

       Yes, I understand exactly what you mean about the “bump” that results from shaping the shoulders.

       When you’re joining the shoulder seams, you should align the bumps on the front piece with the corresponding bumps on the back piece.

       These raised rows result from the shaping process and should match up when sewn together, giving you a smooth and even seam across the shoulders.

       Use a whip stitch or slip stitch seam (whichever you prefer), going through both loops of each stitch to keep it neat and secure.

       This method helps maintain the shape and structure of the garment once it’s worn.

       I hope that helps!

       Louise

       Reply

       1. Hi there, I’m so close to finishing, and can’t figure out the joining at the shoulders! I see where the 2 “bumps” will connect, but what about the portion that is slip stitched over and creates an indent? It makes a space where the arm holes should connect so I’m at a loss- thanks in advance for your help!

          Reply

          1. Hi Dana,

             Thank you so much for your message—and well done on getting so close to the finish line!

             For the shoulder join: yes, you’re exactly right that the two “bumps” align to create the main join point.

             As for the section with the slip stitches that creates an indent—that part is meant to shape the neckline.

             You won’t be joining across the entire edge—just at those outer “bumps” to form the shoulders.

             The indent you’re seeing is where the neckline opens up, and the space below that is what forms the armholes—so you’re on the right track!

             Once the sides are seamed, the armholes will naturally take shape below the joined shoulders.

             I hope that helps!

             Warm wishes,
             Louise

             Reply

12. Hi again, I have another question on this section sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) ( sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,” )
    I know to do tr after I slip st at the beginning but what do I do here ( sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,” )

    Reply

    1. Hi Victoria,

       Thanks so much for your question — I’m happy to help!

       In that line:
       “sl st over 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, pattern to last 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts, turn,”
       – the numbers in brackets refer to different sizes.

       Once you’ve slip stitched across the beginning stitches (to shape the armhole), you then:

       Work in pattern (following the same stitch pattern as before).

       Continue until you have 6 (or 8 depending on your size) stitches remaining at the end of the row.

       Then stop, and turn your work — you don’t crochet into those last 6/8 stitches.

       This creates shaping at both ends of the row (for the armholes or neckline), and the slip stitches help raise your starting point.

       I hope that helps,
       Louise

       Reply

13. Hi, Louise! I’m stuck on shaping the shoulders and back of neck of the back panel. I did the row that says “sl st over 8, patt over 13 sts, fasten off.” Now I’m confused as to how to do the next step: “Miss the next 27 sts for neck edge, rejoin yarn into
    next st, patt over 13 sts.” Does ‘miss’ mean skip 27 sts and then rejoin the yarn in the next stitch? I’m just afraid that I’m not doing this part right because I can’t see what it’s supposed to look like at this point. I can see the end result pictures of the whole project, but I can’t see the back of the neck in the photos. (This is my first major work btw!) At this point, the work is starting to look almost like a halter top (if the back was the front). Is that right? I have the little “ledges” of 3 tr sts to shape the armholes, then decrease rows. The last row I worked has 28 sts which includes the 8 sl sts, 7 tr sts (pattern over 13 sts), and the stitches on the last row after the fasten off. I guess I just don’t know where to start again after I’ve fastened off. I hope this all makes sense and I really look forward to your advice. Thanks!

    Reply

    1. Hi Autumn! Thank you so much for your thoughtful message—and huge congrats on taking on your first major project! 🎉 That’s a big achievement, and it sounds like you’re doing really well so far 😊

       You’re exactly right about the instructions: when it says “miss the next 27 sts for neck edge,” that means you’ll skip those 27 stitches—they form the space for the neckline. Then, you’ll rejoin your yarn into the next (28th) stitch and continue working the pattern over the next 13 stitches for the other shoulder.

       From your description, it does sound like it’s starting to take shape properly! The back will indeed look a bit like a halter top at this stage—those “ledges” of 3 tr sts help shape the armholes just as you noted. So you’re definitely on the right track.

       Don’t worry if it’s a bit hard to visualize—once both shoulders are worked, and the front panels are added and sewn together at the shoulders, the shape will become much clearer.

       You’ve got this! And I’m so glad you’re enjoying the pattern so far 🧶🌞 Let me know if you need any more help!

       Reply

       1. Hi again, Louise! Thank you so much for responding so quickly! But unfortunately I’m still stuck. I think I made a mistake earlier in the piece that’s causing issues where I’m at now; shaping the neckline. Would I be able to email a photo of my work to you to clarify if I did make a mistake earlier? Thank you!

          Reply

          1. Hi there, Autumn! Of course—please feel free to email me a photo of your work, and I’ll take a look to help you figure out what’s going on. I’d be happy to help you get back on track! 😊 Looking forward to seeing your progress! 🧶✨

             Reply

14. Hi I’m stuck at this part what does it mean

    Rep the last row twice more – 57 (63, 69, 75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts. **
    Cont without further dec until the armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.

    Reply

    1. Hi Victoria, Thanks for your question — happy to help 😊

       Here’s what that section means:

       “Rep the last row twice more – 57 (63, 69, 75, 77, 83, 89, 95) sts.”
       → You’ll repeat the previous row two more times. After that, you should have the number of stitches indicated in parentheses for your chosen size. For example, if you’re making the third size, you’ll have 69 stitches after repeating.

       “Cont without further dec until the armhole measures 6 (6, 6, 6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5) inches, ending on a wrong side row.”
       → This means keep working in the established stitch pattern without doing any more decreases until your work measures the specified armhole depth for your size. Be sure to stop after completing a wrong side row (this helps with shaping later on).

       Happy crocheting! 🧶🌞

       Reply

15. Hello, I’m on the back panel at the row after the slip stitches, and my question is do I continue slip stitching over to the first trb of the pattern? Instructions says to do the turning chain 4 and trb in 1st treble.
    thank you

    Reply

    1. Hi Holly!

       After completing the slip stitches, yes — you’ll work the turning chain 4 and then make a treble (trb) into the first treble of the pattern row, continuing as established.

       The slip stitches were just to shape the neckline and won’t be repeated in the following rows.

       Hope that helps, and happy crocheting! 😊

       Reply

16. For row 3: “patt to last 7 sts, work next tr2tog, 1 ch, 1 tr into next tr, 1 ch, 1 tr into the last st”, am i supposed to have a roughly 1 inch gap now? if i keep going with the pattern until i get to my last 7 stitches, (assuming that’s what you meant), i’ll have 4 more stitches not yet worked in, so then i tr into the very last stitch (assuming thats the 3rd of 4th chains i created at the beginning), which creates a gap… i just don’t know what that gap would be there for if it’s supposed to be there at all.

    Reply

    1. Hi Jay,

       Yes, in Row 3, when you “patt to last 7 sts” and then follow the instruction to work the tr2tog, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr into the last st, you will notice a small gap forming—and that’s totally expected!

       That gap is part of the openwork shaping in the pattern. The 1 ch spaces between the stitches are what create the light, airy texture of the cover-up and allow for that lovely drape.

       You’re absolutely right that your last stitch will go into the top of the turning chain—and that small space you’re seeing is part of the design.

       It might look a bit confusing at first, but as you continue, these open areas form a consistent and intentional lace structure.

       I hope this helps clarify it.

       Happy crocheting!
       Louise 💛

       Reply