Easter Bunny Pattern {Floppy Ears + Cuddly!}
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.I really wanted to make an Easter bunny pattern to share with you all and here it is!
A good while ago I made a smaller bunny and even though I really like it, I think this one is better because she’s bigger and fluffier.
A great size for a little one to take with them wherever they go, this big-eared floppy bunny will make a super cool best friend.
Easy To PRINT PDF PATTERN
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An Easter Bunny Pattern For Advanced Beginners
This is an easy pattern for those of you who are advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are knit, purl, k2tog, and KFB.
Using mainly knit and purl stitches, it will also introduce you to decreasing and shaping.
There is also some assembly and seaming required, to fit the body parts together.
Make A Fluffy Bunny Stuffed Animal
When I make stuffed animals, I tend to stuff them pretty well, so they have a good shape.
I didn’t stuff the bunny too much, so that her body is still really squishy and floppy, which is better for cuddles.
Perfect for Easter, why not make and give a knitted baby bunny that you know a little one will love?!
Make this bunny softie pattern as a DIY Easter decoration for your grandchild’s or your baby’s room.
You could make one or more of these little guys to place in an Easter basket surrounded by Easter eggs.
What Knitters Say:
“I just finished the Easter Bunny Pattern from the site. I used different wool than recommended, so was a bit worried, but am so happy with the results! Now I need to knit a lamb so both granddaughters have Easter gifts.“
Angela boyd
The Yarn I Used To Make The Floppy Ear Bunny
- This big bunny has been knit with La Mia mohair boucle yarn in grey and cream.
- You can buy this yarn from Hobium Yarns online.
- I used size 7 mm (US 10.5) needles to knit with, even though the yarn label suggests a size 6mm (US 10) needle.
- The La Mia mohair boucle yarn is quite easy to work with on slightly bigger needles than suggested, as normally with this type of yarn it can be hard to see what you are doing!
- I think any fluffy yarn or wool would be ok to use, as many brands have some sort of fluffy textured yarn in their collections.
- Working the rabbit up in a different yarn will still work out, but obviously different yarns give different end results.
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
This pattern is great for any advanced beginner knitters.
- You should be comfortable casting on and casting off, as well as knitting in garter stitch.
- Knitting cast-on methods.
- You should be comfortable working the purl stitch.
- You should also be comfortable reading knitting patterns.
- And understanding knitting abbreviations and terms.
- How to substitute yarns in a knitting pattern.
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Easter Bunny Pattern
Notes
The bunny knits up quickly in boucle yarn and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
The bunny knits up quickly in boucle yarn and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
It is possible to make the bunny with other yarn weights/types and needles that can be used with your preferred yarn choice.
But if you use a lighter weight yarn than suggested the bunny will be smaller than the size given.
The La Mia Boucle yarn is suggested for the texture it has, which will make the bunny very fluffy, large, and floppy.
But any yarns you have in your stash can also be substituted.
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- In all product listings please credit Handy Little Me (Louise Bollanos) as the designer.
- Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C please read my Terms of Use.
Skill Level – Easy
Size –
- Height = 19 inches (from top of the head to bottom of the feet)
- Width = 6.5 inches (body not inc arms) This may vary depending on how much stuffing you use.
Gauge – 10×10 cm/4×4 inches = 20 sts x 14 rows
The Supplies You Need…
Yarn
- 5 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour grey L031
- 1 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour cream L193
- Scraps of pink yarn (worsted or Aran) for the nose.
- Yarn Substitute – Plymouth Yarn Arequipa Boucle.
- Yarn weight – chunky/bulky/12-ply.
Needles
Notions
Other Materials
- Pom Pom Maker – Clover Large – 2-1/2 inches.
- Toy safety eyes – They are around 0.5 inches/1.5cm.
- Polyfill stuffing.
Abbreviations / Knitting Abbreviations List
- Approx = Approximately
- Beg = Begin(ning)
- Cont = Continue(ing)
- Dec = Decrease
- Inc = Increase
- K = Knit
- KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch (to increase)
- K2tog = Knit 2 sts together
- M1 = Make one st
- M1p = (make one stitch purl – to increase on a purl row)
- P = Purl
- Rem = Remaining
- Rep = Repeat
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- St St = stocking stitch – knit 1 row, purl 1 row
Pattern
Yarn A – Grey / Yarn B – Cream
Legs – Make 2
- With Yarn A – Cast on 12 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1, -rep to the end of row. (23sts)
- Row 3 – P row.
- Row 4 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (24 sts)
- Row 5 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (25 sts)
- Row 6 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (26 sts)
- Row 7 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (27 sts)
- Row 8 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (28 sts)
- Row 9 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (29 sts)
- Row 10 – *K7, M1* rep from * to * to end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
- Row 11 – P row.
- Row 12 – K row.
- Row 13 – P row.
- Row 14 – K13, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K13. (31sts)
- Row 15 – Purl row.
- Row 16 – K12, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K12. (29 sts)
- Row 17 – Purl row.
- Row 18 – K7, cast off the rem sts until you have 7 sts left to knit on the left needle, K those 7 sts. (You should have 14 sts left with a gap in between).
- Row 19 – P row.
- Row 20 – Inc 1 st at each end of the row. (K the row) (16sts)
- Rows 21 – 33 – Cont in st, st for 13 rows. (Starting with a P row and ending with a P row)
- Row 34 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2. (12 sts)
- Row 35 – Purl row.
- Row 36 – K2tog, K1, rep to the end of row. (8 sts)
- Row 37 – P2tog – rep to the end of row.
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the leg seam and leave an opening at the bottom of the foot for stuffing.
Stuff the leg with polyfill stuffing and stitch closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Arms – Make 2
- With Yarn A – Cast on 6 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of row. (11 sts)
- Row 3 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 4 – K1, M1, K4, M1, K1, M1, K4, M1, K1. (15 sts)
- Rows 5 – 11 – Work 7 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 12 – K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1. (11 sts)
- Rows 13 – 15 – Work 3 rows, inc (m1p) 1 st at each end of the next row. (13 sts) (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Rows 16 – 25 – Work 10 rows in st st – ending on a P row.
- Row 26 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1. (9 sts)
- Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to end of row. (6 sts)
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the arm seam and leave an opening at the top of the arm for stuffing.
Stuff the arm with polyfill stuffing and stitch closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Body – Make 1
- With Yarn A – Cast on 15 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (29sts)
- Rows 3 – 7 – Beg with a P row, work 5 rows in st st.
- Row 8 – *K7, M1* – rep from * to * to the end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
- Rows 9 – 11 – Work 3 rows in st st.
- Row 12 – K16, M1, K1, M1, K16. (35 sts)
- Rows 13 – 17 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 18 – K15, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K15. (33 sts)
- Rows 19 – 21 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 22 – K14, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K14. (31 sts)
- Rows 23 – 25 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 26 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (21 sts)
- Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (14 sts)
- Row 29 – Purl 1 row.
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the body seam and leave an opening at the top of the body for stuffing.
Stuff the body with polyfill stuffing and stitch closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Head – Make 1
- With Yarn A – Cast on 7 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (13 sts)
- Rows 3 – 4 – Rep the last two rows once more. (25 sts)
- Rows 5 – 7 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 8 – *K1, M1, K3* Rep from * to * till the end of the row. (31 sts)
- Rows 9 – 21 – Work 13 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 22 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row. (21 sts)
- Rows 23 – 27 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog, rep to the end of the row. (14 sts)
- Row 29 – Purl 1 row.
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the head seam to the end of the nose.
You need to seam from both ends and leave a small gap in the middle to stuff the head.
The nose is the pointy end and the back of the head is the more rounded curved end.
I would seam the nose first, then add the facial features – eyes/mouth, etc.
Then seam the from the back, leaving a hole in the middle to stuff.
Once stuffed – seam that hole closed.
Once the head is stitched onto the body, you won’t be able to see that hole seaming on the head at all.
Weave in any loose ends.
Ears – Make 2
- With Yarn A – Cast on 8 sts.
- Rows 1 – 38 – K 38 rows.
- Row 39 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (6 sts)
- Row 40 – K row.
- Row 41 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (4 sts)
- Row 42 – K row.
- Row 43 – K2tog, K2tog. (2 sts)
- Row 44 – (underside of ears) – Change to yarn B and K row.
- Row 45 – KFB, KFB. (4 sts)
- Row 46 – K row.
- Row 47 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (6 sts)
- Row 48 – K row.
- Row 49 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (8 sts)
- Row 50 – K row.
- Row 51 – K row.
- Rows 52 – 87 – Cont to work in garter stitch (knit every row) for another 35 rows.
- Cast off.
Cut a long length of yarn and start to stitch the ear seams together (using an invisible seam).
Once seamed, they will be ready to attach to the head.
Weave in any loose ends.
Making Up The Bunny
- Stitch the legs to the lower half of the body and the arms to the upper half.
- Thread the darning needle and push through one leg, then through again and into the body, then through the other leg and back through.
- Keep going until the legs are securely fastened.
- Do the same for the arms.
- Stitch the head into place – thread the needle through the body/neck first, then stitch through the head, keep doing this until the head is secure.
- The ears should be stitched onto either side of the head.
- Lastly, I attached the pom pom tail, this helps the bunny to sit down and balance.
As for stuffing the bunny, I used a polyfill toy stuffing, not the clumpy type, as you don’t want bits here and there.
The ears have an opening so you can decide if you want to stuff them or not, I didn’t because I wanted them to be floppy.
The bunny is supposed to be soft, squishy, and cuddly, so don’t worry about it looking perfect or that every piece has to be stuffed to look exactly the same, etc.
Share your work with us…
I love seeing your finished projects!
If you enjoyed making the floppy bunny, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme.
If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook group and share a photo.
I’d love to see your work!
Happy Knitting! xoxo
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