Free Easter Bunny Knitting Pattern (Floppy Ears + Cuddly!)
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.Floppy Eared Rabbit Knitting Pattern Free – Make a Cuddly Easter Bunny Toy
You will see a free Easter bunny knitting pattern in this blog post.
This big-eared floppy bunny is a great size for a little one to take with them wherever they go.
The cuddly toy would also make an excellent gift for a baby shower or birthday celebration.
Please scroll down to view the free knitting pattern, or grab the ad-free printable PDF file in my shop here.
Skill Level: Advanced Beginners
This is an easy pattern for those of you who are at the advanced beginner level, and the techniques you will need to know are knit, purl, k2tog, and KFB.
Using mainly the knit stitch and purl stitches, you will make simple increases and decreases to shape the body parts.
Some assembly and seaming are also required to fit the body parts together.
Make A Fluffy Bunny Stuffed Animal
When I make stuffed animals, I tend to stuff them pretty well so they have a good shape.
I didn’t stuff the bunny too much so that her body is still really squishy and floppy, which is better for cuddles.
Perfect for Easter, why not make and give a knitted baby bunny that you know a little one will love?!
Make this bunny softie pattern as a DIY Easter decoration for your grandchild’s or baby’s room.
You could make one or more of these cute bunnies to place in an Easter basket surrounded by Easter eggs.
The Yarn I Used To Make The Floppy-Eared Bunny
- This big bunny has been knit with La Mia mohair boucle yarn in grey and cream (a chunky yarn/bulky weight yarn).
- You can buy this yarn from Hobium Yarns online.
- I used size 7 mm (US 10.5) needles to knit with, even though the yarn label suggests a size 6 mm (US 10) needle.
- The La Mia mohair boucle yarn is quite easy to work with on slightly bigger needles than suggested, as normally, with this type of yarn, it can be hard to see what you are doing!
- I think any fluffy yarn or wool would be ok to use, as many brands have some fluffy textured yarn in their collections.
- Working the rabbit up in a different yarn will still work out, but different yarns give different results (and different sizes).
What Knitters Say:
“I just finished the Easter Bunny Pattern from the site. I used different wool than recommended, so was a bit worried, but am so happy with the results! Now I need to knit a lamb so both granddaughters have Easter gifts.“
Angela boyd
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
This pattern is great for any advanced beginner knitter.
- Knitting cast-on methods
- Knitting Lessons
- How to cast on knitting
- How to cast off knitting for total beginners (step by step)
- How to knit garter stitch
- How to knit the purl stitch (for beginners + a video tutorial)
- How to knit stockinette stitch (for beginners)
- How to read knitting patterns for beginners
- Knitting abbreviations and terms (US and UK)
- How to knit rib stitch
- How to substitute yarn in a knitting pattern
Easter Bunny Pattern Information
Notes
Skill Level – Easy Knitting Pattern (For advanced beginners)
- The bunny rabbit is a quick knit in boucle yarn, and the simple design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
- It is possible to make the bunny with other yarn weights/types and needles that can be used with your preferred yarn choice.
- But if you use a lighter weight yarn than suggested, for example, a worsted weight yarn, the bunny will be smaller than the size given.
- The La Mia Boucle yarn is suggested for the texture it has, which will make the bunny very fluffy, large, and floppy.
- But any yarns you have in your stash can also be substituted.
- You can use the long tail cast-on method.
- The bunny is made in separate pieces and stitched together.
Easy To PRINT PDF PATTERN
Grab The Ad-Free PDF Pattern
Scroll down to view the free pattern with ads or grab the PDF in my shop. This is easy to print out with no ads!
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, please provide a link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- In all product listings, please credit Handy Little Me (Louise Bollanos) as the designer.
- Do NOT use copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.
Size Information
- Height = 19 inches (from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet)
- Width = 6.5 inches (body, not including the arms).
- This may vary depending on how much stuffing you use.
Gauge – 10×10 cm/4×4 inches = 20 sts x 14 rows
The Supplies You Need…
Yarn
- 5 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour grey L031
- 1 x La Mia Mohair Boucle Yarn – 50g (50m) in the colour cream L193
- Scraps of pink yarn (worsted or Aran) for the nose.
- Yarn Substitute – Rowan Soft Boucle.
- Yarn weight – chunky/bulky/12-ply.
- Total meters needed for the bunny = 300m
Needles
- Set of 7 mm (US 10.5) Knitting needles
- You can use a circular needle or single point needles for this project, the pieces are knitted back and forth (not in the round).
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle/yarn needle
- Scissors
Other Materials
- Pom Pom Maker – Clover Large – 2-1/2 inches.
- Toy safety eyes – They are around 0.5 inches/1.5cm.
- Polyfill stuffing.
Knitting Abbreviations
Knitting Abbreviations And Terms (US And UK)
- Approx = Approximately
- Beg = Begin(ning)
- Cont = Continue(ing)
- Dec = Decrease
- Inc = Increase
- K = Knit
- KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch (to increase)
- K2tog = Knit 2 sts together
- M1 = Make one st
- M1P = Make one stitch purl – to increase on a purl row.
- P = Purl
- Rem = Remaining
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right side
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- St St = stocking stitch – knit 1 row, purl 1 row
- WS = Wrong side
Pattern Instructions
- Main Color – Yarn A – Grey
- Contrast color – Yarn B – Cream
Legs – Make 2
- With Yarn A – Cast on 12 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – *K1, M1, – rep to the end of row. (23sts)
- Row 3 – P row.
- Row 4 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (24 sts)
- Row 5 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (25 sts)
- Row 6 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (26 sts)
- Row 7 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (27 sts)
- Row 8 – K1, M1, cont to knit row. (28 sts)
- Row 9 – P1, M1, cont to P row. (29 sts)
- Row 10 – *K7, M1* rep from * to * to end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
- Row 11 – P row.
- Row 12 – K row.
- Row 13 – P row.
- Row 14 – K13, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K13. (31sts)
- Row 15 – Purl row.
- Row 16 – K12, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K12. (29 sts)
- Row 17 – Purl row.
- Row 18 – K7, cast off the rem sts until you have 7 sts left to knit on the left needle, K those 7 sts. (You should have 14 sts left with a gap in between).
- Row 19 – P row.
- Row 20 – Inc 1 st at each end of the row. (K the row) (16sts)
- Rows 21 – 33 – Cont in st, st for 13 rows. (Starting with a P row and ending with a P row)
- Row 34 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2. (12 sts)
- Row 35 – Purl row.
- Row 36 – K2tog, K1, rep to the end of row. (8 sts)
- Row 37 – P2tog – rep to the end of row.
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the leg seam, and leave an opening at the bottom of the foot for stuffing.
Stuff the leg with polyfill stuffing and stitch it closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Arms – Make 2
- With Yarn A – Cast on 6 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of row. (11 sts)
- Row 3 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 4 – K1, M1, K4, M1, K1, M1, K4, M1, K1. (15 sts)
- Rows 5 – 11 – Work 7 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 12 – K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1. (11 sts)
- Rows 13 – 15 – Work 3 rows, inc (m1p) 1 st at each end of the next row. (13 sts) (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Rows 16 – 25 – Work 10 rows in st st – ending on a P row.
- Row 26 – K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1. (9 sts)
- Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to end of row. (6 sts)
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the arm seam, and leave an opening at the top of the arm for stuffing.
Stuff the arm with polyfill stuffing and stitch closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Body – Make 1
- With Yarn A – Cast on 15 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (29sts)
- Rows 3 – 7 – Beg with a P row, work 5 rows in st st.
- Row 8 – *K7, M1* – rep from * to * to the end of the row, K1. (33 sts)
- Rows 9 – 11 – Work 3 rows in st st.
- Row 12 – K16, M1, K1, M1, K16. (35 sts)
- Rows 13 – 17 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 18 – K15, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K15. (33 sts)
- Rows 19 – 21 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 22 – K14, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K14. (31 sts)
- Rows 23 – 25 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 26 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (21 sts)
- Row 27 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row, K2. (14 sts)
- Row 29 – Purl 1 row.
Cut a length of yarn around 8′′ and thread through the rem sts, stitch the body seam, and leave an opening at the top of the body for stuffing.
Stuff the body with polyfill stuffing and stitch it closed.
Weave in any loose ends.
Head – Make 1
- With Yarn A – Cast on 7 sts.
- Row 1 – Purl 1 row.
- Row 2 – K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. (13 sts)
- Rows 3 – 4 – Rep the last two rows once more. (25 sts)
- Rows 5 – 7 – Work 3 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 8 – *K1, M1, K3* Rep from * to * till the end of the row. (31 sts)
- Rows 9 – 21 – Work 13 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 22 – K1, K2tog – rep to the end of the row. (21 sts)
- Rows 23 – 27 – Work 5 rows in st st. (Starting with a P row and ending on a P row)
- Row 28 – K1, K2tog, rep to the end of the row. (14 sts)
- Row 29 – Purl 1 row.
Cut a yarn tail of around 8′′ and thread through the remaining stitches, and stitch the head seam to the end of the nose.
You need to seam from both ends and leave a small gap in the middle to stuff the head.
The nose is the pointy end, and the back of the head is the more rounded curved end.
I would seam the nose first, then add the facial features – eyes/mouth, etc.
Then, seam it from the back, leaving a hole in the middle to stuff.
Once stuffed – seam that hole closed.
Once the head is stitched onto the body, you won’t be able to see that hole seaming on the head at all.
Weave in any loose ends.
Floppy Ears – Make 2
The start of each ear piece is the section that is seamed to the head; you work up to the tip of the ear and then begin the contrasting color.
- With Yarn A – Cast on 8 sts.
- Rows 1 – 38 – K 38 rows.
- Row 39 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (6 sts)
- Row 40 – K row.
- Row 41 – K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (4 sts)
- Row 42 – K row.
- Row 43 – K2tog, K2tog. (2 sts)
- Row 44 – (inner ear/underside of ears) – Change to yarn B and K row.
- Row 45 – KFB, KFB. (4 sts)
- Row 46 – K row.
- Row 47 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (6 sts)
- Row 48 – K row.
- Row 49 – KFB, K to last st and KFB. (8 sts)
- Row 50 – K row.
- Row 51 – K row.
- Rows 52 – 87 – Cont to work in garter stitch (knit every row) for another 35 rows.
- Cast off.
Cut a long length of yarn and start to stitch the ear seams together (using an invisible seam to connect the inner ear and outer ear together).
Once seamed, they will be ready to attach to the head.
Weave in any loose ends.
Make the second ear to match.
Making Up The Finished Bunny
- Stitch the legs to the lower half of the body and the arms to the upper half.
- Thread the darning needle and push through one leg, then through again and into the body, then through the other leg and back through.
- Keep going until the legs are securely fastened.
- Do the same for the arms.
- Stitch the head into place – thread the needle through the body/neck first, then stitch through the head, and keep doing this until the head is secure.
- The ears should be stitched onto either side of the head.
- Lastly, I attached the fluffy bunny tail – the pom pom tail, which helps the bunny to sit down and balance.
The Bunny Stuffing
As for stuffing the bunny, I used a polyfill toy stuffing, not the clumpy type, as you don’t want bits here and there.
The ears have an opening so you can decide if you want to stuff them or not; I didn’t because I wanted them to be floppy.
The bunny is supposed to be soft, squishy, and cuddly, so don’t worry about it looking perfect or that every piece has to be stuffed to look exactly the same, etc.
Grab the knitted bunny PDF pattern in my shop here; it’s ad-free!
More Free Knitting Patterns
You can find more knit projects, great gifts, and free Easter knitting patterns to inspire you, including cute bunny rabbits, knit bunny hats, Easter baskets, Easter chicks, Easter decor, Easter bunnies, and more.
- 25 Free Easter Knitting Patterns (Easy Ideas)
- Bunny Softie Pattern (Easy To Knit)
- Easter Bunny Egg Cozy
- Bunny Slippers For Baby (Perfect For Easter!)
- Easter Bunny Hat {Knit Flat}
- Bunny Ears Headband {With Knitted Ears}
- Easter Craft Activities {For Kids}
- Easter Chick Slippers Pattern {+ Loop Stitch Tutorial}
- Bunny Tea Cosy Pattern
- Bunny Ear Hat (Easy Pattern)
- Stuffed Bunny Pattern {With Crochet Overalls}
- Bunny Booties Knitting Pattern
- 21 Free Knitted Bunny Patterns For Easter Gifts
- 17+ Free Knitted Chicken Patterns
Could you share your work with us?
I love seeing your finished projects on social media.
If you enjoyed making the floppy bunny, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme.
If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook group and share a photo.
I’d love to see your work.
Happy Knitting!
