Men’s Aran Sweater Knitting Pattern

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Quick Pattern Facts

About This Men’s Aran Sweater Pattern

This men’s Aran sweater knitting pattern is a classic cable knit jumper with a timeless fisherman sweater look.

The design features an intricate cable panel on the front, back, and sleeves, with ribbed lower bands, ribbed cuffs, and a ribbed collar.

Instead of a honeycomb cable, this design uses a diamond cable as the main feature.

Alongside the central diamond cable, there are simple cable twists, often associated with fisherman’s ropes, and moss stitch borders for added texture.

The result is a warm, textured, traditional-style sweater that can be worn year after year.

Is This Pattern Right For You?

This pattern is best for intermediate knitters or confident advanced beginners who are ready to work with cable stitches, shaping, ribbing, and seaming.

You should be comfortable with:

• Knit and purl stitches
• 1 x 1 ribbing
• Moss stitch / seed stitch
• Basic increases and decreases
• Working cable stitches
• Reading pattern abbreviations
• Working flat in pieces
• Seaming knitted pieces together
• Picking up stitches for the neckline

The sweater is worked flat in four pieces: back, front, and two sleeves.

The pieces are then seamed together, and the neckline is picked up and knitted after joining.

If you are new to cables, take your time with the abbreviations and video tutorials before starting the main pattern.

Sizes Included

This pattern is written for adult sizes and can be made for men or women.

To Fit Chest Size

• 34 inches / 86 cm
• 36 inches / 91 cm
• 38 inches / 97 cm
• 40 inches / 102 cm
• 42 inches / 107 cm
• 44 inches / 112 cm

Actual Finished Measurement

• 38.5 inches / 98 cm
• 40 inches / 102 cm
• 43.75 inches / 111 cm
• 45.25 inches / 115 cm
• 47.25 inches / 120 cm
• 48.75 inches / 124 cm

Full Length

• 27.25 inches / 69 cm
• 27.25 inches / 69 cm
• 28.25 inches / 72 cm
• 28.25 inches / 72 cm
• 29.25 inches / 74 cm
• 29.25 inches / 74 cm

Sleeve Length

• 17.25 inches / 44 cm
• 17.75 inches / 45 cm
• 18 inches / 46 cm
• 19 inches / 48 cm
• 19 inches / 48 cm
• 19 inches / 48 cm

Please note: the sleeve length is adjustable.

In the photographs, the model is wearing a size 42 inches / 107 cm.

The pattern is written for all sizes, starting with the smallest size, with changes for larger sizes listed in parentheses.

To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers for your chosen size before you begin.

Gauge

18 sts x 24 rows = 4×4 inches /10×10 cm over moss stitch – with the 5 mm (US 8) needles.

Supplies Needed

Yarn

I made the sweater using Lion Brand Wool-Ease in the color Natural Heather.

This is a worsted weight / medium #4 yarn and is made from 80% acrylic and 20% wool.

You will need:

• Lion Brand Wool-Ease – (85g/197 yds/180m) in Natural Heather
• 6, (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls
• Approx: 1,182 (1,379, 1,379, 1,576, 1,576, 1,773) yards
• Approx: 1,080 (1,260, 1,260, 1,440, 1,440, 1,620) meters

You can substitute another worsted weight, medium #4, or aran weight yarn that matches the gauge.

Always make a gauge swatch before starting, especially if you are substituting yarn.

Needles

You will need:

• 4 mm (US 6) knitting needles.
• 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles.
• Cable needle.

I used interchangeable circular needles because there are many stitches to cast on, and it was easier to hold the weight of the work.

You will work back and forth on the circular needles as if working on straight needles.

You may also find spare cables with end caps useful for holding stitches when needed.

Notions

You will also need:

• Tape measure
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Stitch holders x 3 or spare cables with end caps

Construction Notes

This men’s Aran sweater is worked flat in four pieces:

• Back
• Front
• Sleeve 1
• Sleeve 2

Each piece is worked from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a ribbed lower band.

The sweater has raglan sleeves, which means each sleeve extends toward the collar and creates a diagonal seam from the underarm to the neckline.

Once the pieces are complete, they are seamed together using mattress stitch.

The neckline is created by picking up stitches after the main pieces are joined, then knitting in 1 x 1 ribbing to create the neckband.

The Design Inspiration

This fisherman knit sweater design was inspired by an Aran knit sweater seen worn by actor Graham McTavish in the TV show Men In Kilts.

Although this type of sweater is usually associated with Aran Island knitwear rather than Scottish clans, Aran-style sweaters have sometimes been worn with a kilt.

The main feature of this design is the diamond cable panel, with simple cable twists on either side and moss stitch borders for texture.

The finished sweater has a classic, heritage-inspired look while still being practical, wearable, and warm.

A Symbol Of Traditional Irish Sweaters

Traditional Aran sweaters are known for their beautiful stitch patterns and rich symbolism.

Many knitters have used Irish knitwear as inspiration because of the warmth, comfort, texture, and meaning these pieces can bring.

A hand-knit Aran sweater makes a meaningful project because it combines practical warmth with traditional stitch design.

Whether you are knitting this for yourself or as a gift, the texture and heritage of the design give it a classic look that can be worn for years.

What Do The Stitches In Aran Knitting Represent?

The most commonly seen stitch pattern in an Aran sweater is the cable, which has many variations.

Cable stitches are often said to symbolize fishermen’s ropes and are commonly worked in vertical columns.

Lattice or basket stitches are associated with the fisherman’s basket and are said to represent hopes of safety and good luck while at sea.

The diamond stitch represents the shapes of fishing net mesh and is often seen as a traditional symbol of wealth and good fortune.

Moss stitch is said to symbolize abundance and growth. In this design, moss stitch is used on either side of each main cable panel to add texture and balance.

Related Post: 12 Traditional Irish Aran Knitting Stitches And Meanings

How To Wear An Aran Sweater

A fisherman sweater is a timeless design that can be worn again and again during autumn and winter.

Wear it with jeans, boots, and a beanie or cap for an easy cold-weather outfit.

The finished sweater is warm, cozy, and practical, with a classic look that works well for everyday wear.

It’s the kind of knit that feels at home on countryside walks, winter weekends, and chilly days when you want something comfortable but still special.

Helpful Resources

This pattern is great for intermediate knitters.

If you need help with any of the techniques, these tutorials may be useful:

• Knitting cast-on methods
• Knitting Lessons
• How to cast on knitting
• How to cast off knitting for total beginners (step by step)
• How to knit garter stitch
• How to knit the purl stitch (for beginners + a video tutorial)
• How to knit stockinette stitch (for beginners)
• How to read knitting patterns for beginners
• Knitting abbreviations and terms (US and UK)
• How to knit rib stitch patterns (1×1 and 2×2 ribbing)
• KFB knitting – How to make an increase
• How to knit two stitches together (K2tog)
• 8 Cable Stitch Knitting Patterns

Men’s Aran Sweater Knitting Pattern

Grab your inexpensive, ad-free, PDF printable pattern in my shop here.

Notes

Skill Level – Intermediate

This Aran sweater knitting pattern creates a classic cable knit sweater that is warm, textured, and timeless.

The sweater features an intricate cable design on the front, back, and sleeves, with ribbed lower bands, ribbed cuffs, and a ribbed collar.

Please note: this pattern was updated in May 2025.

Related Post: Outlander Men’s Knits

Copyright Info

• Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern. 
• If you wish to share this pattern, please provide a link to the pattern page only.
• You may sell items produced using this pattern.
• Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
• For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.

Abbreviations

• Beg = Beginning
• CO = Cast on
• Cont = Continue(ing)
• Dec = Decrease
• Foll = Following
• Inc = Increase (normally with KFB)
• KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch
• K = Knit
• K2tog = Knit the next two stitches together
• K3tog = Knit the next three stitches together
• M1PL = Make one stitch purlwise left
• P = Purl
• P2tog = Purl the next two stitches together
• PM = Place marker
• PSSO = Pass slipped stitch over
• Rem = Remaining
• Rep = Repeat
• RS = Right side
• SL = Slip one stitch
• SSK = Slip, slip, knit
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• SM = Slip marker
• WS = Wrong side
• Work each stitch in the manner it presents = This means to work each stitch as it faces you – you will knit the knit stitches and purl the purls.

Cable Stitch Abbreviations

• C4B – (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
• C6B – (cable 6 back) – slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
• C4L – Cable 4 left by slipping the next 3 sts to the front on cable needle, K1, K3 from the cable needle.
• C4R – Cable 4 right by slipping the next st to the back on the cable needle, K3, K1 from the cable needle.
• C4LP – Cross 4 left by slipping the next 3 sts to the front on the cable needle, P1, K3 from the cable needle.
• C4RP – Cross 4 right by slipping the next st to back on the cable needle, K3, P1 from the cable needle.

Video Tutorials

Learn how to C4R and C4L here.

Learn how to C4LP and C4RP here.

Stitch Pattern Notes

1 x 1 ribbing

K1, P1 (It is obtained by alternating knit and purl stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row.

This means that we make a knit stitch when the previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch when the previous looks like a bump.)

Cast On: even number of stitches.

• Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.

Repeat these two rows.

Moss Stitch

British Moss Stitch / Seed Stitch requires you to alternate knit and purl stitches row-by-row.

For an odd number of cast-on stitches, you simply start the next row with the stitch you ended with on the previous row.

Be careful if you end on a knit stitch and start on a purl stitch; you’ll end up creating a rib stitch pattern.

Cast on an even number of stitches (multiples of two).

1st Row: * k1, p1, repeat from * to end.

2nd Row: * p1, k1, repeat from * to end.

Continue repeating rows 1 – 2 until you have completed your desired number of rows.

Now, you will continue in the following cable pattern:

• Row 1 (RS): P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P9, C6B, P9, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 2 (WS): Work in moss stitch (K1, P1) to the first marker, SM, then work each stitch in the manner it presents, slipping the markers until you get to the final marker, SM, and work in moss stitch (P1, K1) to end.
• Row 3: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4R, C4L, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 4: Rep Row 2.
• Row 5: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P7, C4R, K2, C4L, P7, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 6: Rep Row 2.
• Row 7: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P6, C4R, K4, C4L, P6, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 8: Rep Row 2.
• Row 9: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P5, C4R, K6, C4L, P5, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 10: Rep Row 2.
• Row 11: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, C4R, K8, C4L, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 12: Rep Row 2.
• Row 13: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P3, C4R, K10, C4L, P3, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 14: Rep Row 2.
• Row 15: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P2, C4R, K12, C4L, P2, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 16: Rep Row 2.
• Row 17: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P2, C4LP, K12, C4RP, P2, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 18: Rep Row 2.
• Row 19: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P3, C4LP, K10, C4RP, P3, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 20: Rep Row 2.
• Row 21: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, C4LP, K8, C4RP, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 22: Rep Row 2.
• Row 23: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P5, C4LP, K6, C4RP, P5, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 24: Rep Row 2.
• Row 25: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P6, C4LP, K4, C4RP, P6, SM, P2, C4B, P2, SM, P4, C6B, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 26: Rep Row 2.
• Row 27: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P7, C4LP, K2, C4RP, P7, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 28: Rep Row 2.
• Row 29: P1, K1 to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4LP, C4RP, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, K1, P1 to end.
• Row 30: Rep Row 2.

Rows 1-30 form the cable pattern; rep those rows until your back piece measures 17.25 (17, 17.25, 17, 17.25, 17) inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan

Still working in the cable pattern as established…

• Row 1 (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 82 (86, 93, 97, 100, 104) sts.
• Row 2 (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 78 (82, 88, 92, 94, 98) sts.
• Row 3 (RS): K1, SSK, work in patt to the last 3 sts K2tog, K1.
• Row 4 (WS): P2, work in patt to the last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 working in the established pattern and forming new patterns as the stitches decline until you have 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts left.

Leave these rem sts on a spare needle/stitch holder or cable with end caps.

Front

Work as given for back until you have 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 58) sts.

Shape Neck

Next Row (RS): K1, SSK, work in patt for 11 sts, leave rem 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts on a stitch holder.

Working on these 13 sts only, proceed as follows:

Next row: (WS): P1, P2tog, patt to last 2 sts P2.

Work 4 rows, dec 1 st at the raglan edge as before in every row, AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at neck edge in every row.

Next Row: K1, SL, K2tog, PSSO.

Next Row: P2tog. Fasten off.

With the right side facing work on the rem 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts, slip 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sts onto a stitch holder, rejoin the yarn to the rem 14 sts and work in patt to the last 3 sts, dec 1 stitch at the raglan edge as before, K2tog, K1.

Next Row (WS): Work in patt to the last 3 sts at the neck edge, P2tog, P1.

Work 4 rows, dec 1 st at neck edge in every row AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st at the raglan edge as before in every row.

Next Row: K3tog, k1.

Next Row: P2tog. Fasten off.

Sleeves (Make 2 The Same)

With 4 mm (US 6) knitting needles CO 38 (38, 42, 42, 46, 46) sts.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending with a RS row.

Next row: Rib 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7), (M1PL, Rib 1) 32 times, Rib 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7). 70 (70, 74, 74, 78, 78) sts.

Change to 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles and proceed as follows:

• Row 1 (RS): Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts, PM, P4, C6B, P4, PM, P2, C4B, P2, PM, P9, C6B, P9, PM, P2, C4B, P2, PM, P4, C6B, P4, PM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
• Row 2 (WS): Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts to marker, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K9, P6, K9, SM, K2, P4, K2, SM, K4, P6, K4, SM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
• Row 3: Work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts to marker, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P8, C4R, C4L, P8, SM, P2, K4, P2, SM, P4, K6, P4, SM, work in moss stitch for 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5) sts.
• Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Keeping continuity of patt set (following the original cable pattern for the back piece) and working the moss st patt set at the beg and end of each row.

Starting with the 5th row you will now increase.

Row 5: Inc 1 st at each end of next row (working in cable patt as established).

Cont to increase 1 st at each end of every foll 8th (6th, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row to 82 (84, 90, 92, 94, 96)sts. Make new moss st patts at either side of the main cable patt as you increase.

Cont without shaping until the sleeve measures 17.25 (17.5, 18, 19, 19, 19) inches or the length required, ending with a WS row.

*Please note – you can adjust the sleeve length here to make it longer or shorter according to your own preferences.

Making Up / Finishing

Seaming Tutorial

You can find a mattress stitch tutorial here – The Mattress Stitch – How To Seam Knitting

Tip

It’s best to work on a large surface (like a dining table or desk) so you can lay the pieces out flat and see where you will be seaming.

Blocking

I would recommend blocking the pieces before seaming or after, but blocking will make sure the size is correct.

Related Post: Blocking Knits – How To Block Knitting Guide

Step 1

Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 2

Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 3

Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 4

Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.

With the RS of work facing you, use the 4mm (US 6) knitting needles and do the following:

Work across the 28sts left on the st holder at the top left sleeve as follows: (K1, K2tog) 9 times, K1, pick up and knit 6 sts evenly along the left side of neck, work across 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30)sts left on the stitch holder at front of the neck as follows: K1 (2, 3, 0, 1, 2), K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6) times, K1 (2, 3, 0, 1, 2), pick up and knit 6 sts evenly along the right side of neck, work across the 28 sts left on the st holder at the top right of the sleeve as follows: (K1, K2tog) 9 times, K1 and work across 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts left on the stitch holder at the back of the neck as follows: K3 (4, 5, 2, 3, 4), K2tog, (K2, K2tog) 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8)times, K3 (4, 5, 2, 3, 4). 92 (96, 100, 100, 104, 108) sts.

Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 4 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.

Cast off.

Step 5

Join rem back raglan seam and cont up the neck ribbing (reversing the seam for the rem half, so it looks neat when turned over).

Step 6

Fold neck ribbing in half to WS and catch down loosely on the WS. This creates a folded-over collar (crew neck) with a neat edge.

Step 7

Join side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.

Then, you can weave in any leftover loose ends.

I also like to use a lint roller to clean the garment afterward in case of any fluff, pet hair, etc.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this men’s Aran sweater pattern free?

Yes, the full men’s Aran sweater knitting pattern is free to read on this page.

If you would prefer a clean, ad-free copy to print or save, you can purchase the printable PDF pattern in my shop.

What skill level is this Aran sweater knitting pattern?

This pattern is best for intermediate knitters.

It includes cable stitches, moss stitch, ribbing, shaping, seaming, and picking up stitches for the neckline.

What yarn do I need for this men’s Aran sweater?

The sample sweater was made using Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Natural Heather.

This is a worsted weight / medium #4 yarn made from 80% acrylic and 20% wool.

You can substitute another worsted weight, medium #4, or aran weight yarn if you can match the gauge.

What needle size do I need?

You will need 4 mm / US 6 and 5 mm / US 8 knitting needles.

You will also need a cable needle for the cable stitch patterns.

Circular needles are helpful because there are many stitches to hold, but the sweater is worked back and forth as if using straight needles.

What sizes are included?

The pattern includes sizes to fit chest 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, and 44 inches.

The actual finished measurements range from 38.5 inches to 48.75 inches.

Is this sweater worked flat or in the round?

This sweater is worked flat in four pieces: back, front, and two sleeves.

The pieces are then seamed together, and the neckline is picked up and knitted after joining.

Does this pattern use cable stitches?

Yes, this sweater uses several cable stitch patterns.

The main design feature is a diamond cable panel, with simple cable twists and moss stitch texture.

What is the difference between an Aran sweater and a fisherman sweater?

An Aran sweater is a traditional cable knit sweater associated with the Aran Islands.

A fisherman sweater is a similar style of warm, textured sweater often linked with working fishermen and coastal knitwear.

The terms are often used together because both styles feature classic cable stitch patterns, texture, and practical warmth.

Can I knit this Aran sweater for women too?

Yes, this sweater can be knitted for men or women.

Choose the size based on chest measurement and the amount of ease you would like in the finished sweater.

Grab The Inexpensive PDF Pattern In Other Languages

The PDF pattern is also available in other languages.

• French 
• Spanish 
• Dutch

Knitted Aran Sweater Patterns

If you enjoy knitting Aran sweaters, you may also like these patterns in the shop:

• Stormbraid Sweater Knitting Pattern – Men’s Aran Cable Sweater (PDF)
• Fisherman Sweater Knitting Pattern

Knitted by Our Community

See how knitters have brought this pattern to life with their own yarn choices and style.

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