Outlander Claire’s Blue Cardigan Knitting Pattern
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.In this post, you will see Outlander Claire’s Blue Cardigan Knitting Pattern.
Inspired by the blue cardigan seen worn by Claire in the final episode of Outlander season 5 – ‘Never My Love’ this pattern will allow you to create a textured knitted cardigan in Irish moss stitch with silver buttons.
Knit with raglan sleeves, this cardigan is fairly easy to construct and seam.
Scroll down to see the free pattern or Get the ad-free, printable PDF pattern with all-important photos and step-by-step tutorials HERE.
Claire’s Blue Cardigan
Claire’s knitted blue cardigan definitely stood out as one of the main knitted pieces from season 5.
I chose an Aran/ worsted/10 Ply yarn from Cascade Heathers as my yarn choice for this cardigan in ‘Sapphire‘.
The cardigan is fitted so for a bit more comfort I would suggest knitting it in a size up.
Irish Moss Stitch
This Irish moss knit stitch pattern is just so great to work up.
This 4-row repeat knit stitch pattern is a variation of the Seed Stitch and has a really great texture.
American moss stitch or double moss stitch are other terms used for this pattern.
Related Post: How to knit seed stitch for beginners
Shop The Outlander Pattern Ebooks
- The Ultimate Outlander Knitting Pattern Collection – With 39 Knitting Patterns.
- The Complete Outlander Knitting Pattern Bundle – With 55 Knitting Patterns
Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this pattern:
- Knitting cast-on methods.
- Knitting Lessons
- How to cast on knitting
- How to cast off knitting for total beginners (step by step)
- How to knit garter stitch
- How to knit the purl stitch (for beginners + a video tutorial)
- How to knit stockinette stitch (for beginners)
- How to read knitting patterns for beginners
- Knitting abbreviations and terms (US and UK)
- How to knit rib stitch
- You should also know how to yarn over.
Notes
Skill Level – Intermediate
The cardigan knits up quickly and the design makes for a relaxing and enjoyable knit.
- The pattern is written for all sizes starting with the small size – with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.
- To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
- The cardigan is worked in 9 pieces: Back, 2 x Fronts, 2 Sleeves, 2 x pocket linings and 2 x pocket tops.
- Each piece is worked in Irish moss stitch.
- A circular needle is used to accommodate the number of stitches.
- Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.
- When you see ‘work in patt’ in the instructions, this means to continue in the current pattern stitch.
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern with pattern credit going to Handy Little Me (Louise Bollanos).
- Do NOT use copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C please read my Terms of Use.
Gauge – 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4 inches = 18 sts and 22 rows in Irish moss stitch.
Measurements / Sizes
To Fit Bust
Inches – 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42
cms – 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107
Actual Measurements (Approx)
Inches – 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 / 44
cms – 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 / 112
Sleeve Seam (Approx)
Inches – 16 / 16 / 16.5 / 16.5 / 17 / 17
cms – 41 / 41 / 42 / 42 / 43 / 43
Length (Approx)
Inches – 25.75 / 26 / 26.75 / 27.15 / 27.5 / 28
cms – 65 / 66 / 68 / 69 / 70 / 71
The Supplies You Need…
- Yarn – Cascade 220 100g/200m/219 yds 100% wool – Sapphire (9332)
- Quantities – S 32/34 = 4-5 M 36/38 = 6-7 L 40/42 = 7-8
- Yarn weight – Worsted/Aran/10 Ply (Medium Weight 04)
Yarn Notes
- Knit with a single strand the Cascade yarn produces a lightweight knit that is fitted. You may consider going up a size from your bust size for a better slightly looser fit.
- For a heavier look or an oversized cardigan, you should knit with a heavier yarn weight (Bulky/Chunky/12 Ply and 6mm (US 10) needles).
Needles
5.5mm (US 9) knitting needles – I used my interchangeable circular needles on a 100cm/40″ cable as there were many stitches – I did not join in the round to knit.
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- 2 Stitch holders or spare needles/DPNs
Buttons
Buttons x 6 in silver – measuring 0.75″ /2cm diameter or larger.
Abbreviations
- Alt – Alternate
- Beg – Beginning
- CO – Cast on
- Cont – Continue
- Dec – Decline (cast off sts to decline for the raglan seams)
- DPN – Double-pointed needle
- Foll – Following
- K – Knit
- P – Purl
- Patt – Pattern
- PM – Place marker
- Rem – Remaining
- Rep – Repeat
- RS – Right side
- St – Stitch
- SM – Slip marker
- WS – Wrong side
Back Piece
Using size 5.5mm (US 9) needles cast on 72 (76, 80, 84, 88, 92) sts.
- Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P1: Rep from * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): K the knit sts and P the purl sts to the end of the row.
Rep row 2 until the piece measures 2.5 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row as the last row you work.
Next start working in the Irish moss st (double moss st) pattern as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 3 (RS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 4 (WS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
Continue to work the Irish moss st pattern until the work measures 17 inches from the CO edge, ending with row 4 of patt.
Mark each end of the last row with a closed st marker to denote the beg of the raglan seams.
Shaping The Raglan Armholes
- Dec 1 st at each end of the next and every foll 4th row until 54 (60, 62, 68, 72, 78) sts remain.
- Then dec 1 st at each end of every alt row until 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38) sts remain ending with the 4th row of the Irish moss st patt.
- Mark each end of the last row with a closed stitch marker.
*Please note – when asked to work ‘every alt row’ this means that you will decrease 1 st at each end of every right side row.
Then work the next row – the wrong side row without decreasing.
Then on the next right side row, you will do another decrease at each end again.
Continue working this way until you meet the pattern requirement.
Shape The Shoulder Sections
- Cast off 6 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows.
- Cast off the rem 22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) sts.
Pocket Linings x 2
Make 2 pocket linings as follows:
- Cast on 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts and work in the Irish moss stitch patt (or double moss st) for 5.5 inches ending with row 1 of the patt on one pocket lining and row 4 of patt on the other pocket lining.
- This is because you will need to work row 2 of the patt when you join the pocket lining to the left front and row 1 when you join the other pocket lining to the right front.
- Leave these sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
- *Please note if you leave them on a spare needle or DPN this is easier.
Left Front
Cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts.
- Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P1: Rep from * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): K the knit sts and P the purl sts to the end of the row.
Rep row 2 until the piece measures 2.5 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row as the last row you work.
Next start working in the Irish moss St (double moss st) pattern as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the last 8 sts, pm, K1, P1 to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the marker, sm, K1, P1 to the end of the row.
- Row 3 (RS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to marker, sm, K1, P1 to the end of the row.
- Row 4 (WS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the marker, sm, P1, K1 to end of the row.
Continue to work the Irish moss st pattern (the 4 patt row rep above) slipping the marker when you come to it, until the work measures 8 (8.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with row 1 of patt.
Pocket Lining
For The Full Pocket Lining Step By Step Photo Tutorial Click Here – How To Knit A Pocket
- Now it is time to cast off the top edge of the pocket.
- Make sure you pull the sts tight when you move from the working needle to the spare needle and back.
- Next row: Work the 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts in row 2 of patt, then cast off 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts in patt, cont in patt to marker, sm, K1, P1 to end.
- Next row: You will work across the first 14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 18) sts in patt on the working needle, then across the 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts on the spare needle (the pocket lining sts), then across the second set of sts on the working needle 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts all in the patt.
- Now you will cont to work on the left front in the patt (you are now on row 4 of patt) until you have worked 17 inches from the CO edge, ending with row 4 of patt.
- Place a closed st marker on the side seam edge of the last row worked.
Shape Raglan Armhole
- Cont to work in the established patt (the Irish moss st 4 row rep patt).
- Dec 1 st at side seam edge on the first row, then keeping in patt, cont to dec 1 st on every foll alt row until 14 sts rem.
- Mark end of the last row with a closed st marker (at the side seam edge).
Shape Shoulder Section
- Cast off 6 sts at the beg of the next row, removing marker and cont in patt on the rem 8 sts.
- Cont to work 1 x 1 ribbing on the remaining 8 sts for 5.25 (5,25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75) inches.
- Cast off.
The Right Front – Buttonholes
Buttonholes – You can see a tutorial with images and more information here – How To Knit A Buttonhole.
On the ribbed section of the right front collar, you will need to work buttonholes.
I have worked 6 buttonholes using the following buttonhole rows from working rows 1 and 2 in the in the 4 stitch rep patt:
- Row 1 (RS): P1, K1, P1, K1, Cast off 1 st, P1, K1, P1, K1, sm, *K1, P1* rep from * to * the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* rep form * to * to marker, sm, P1, K1, P1, K1, CO 1 st, K1, P1, K1.
You will cast off 1 st in row 1 and then cast on 1 st in row 2 to make the buttonhole.
- The buttonholes were measured by adding closed st markers to the left front at 3 inches apart.
- They were then worked opposite on the right front.
- You will work the buttonhole rows into the right front when you are knitting.
- You can adjust the measurement of the buttons (greater than 3 inches apart if you wish) or add more buttons.
- You can also add fewer buttons or larger-sized buttons – this is up to you!
- If your yarn allows, you may not even need buttonholes, they may just fit through the ribbing.
The Right Front
Cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) sts.
- Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P1: Rep from * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): K the knit sts and P the purl sts to the end of the row.
Rep row 2 until the piece measures 2.5 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row as the last row you work.
Next start working in the Irish moss St (double moss st) pattern as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): *P1, K1* for 8 sts, pm, K1, P1 to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the marker, sm, P1, K1 to the end of the row.
- Row 3 (RS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to marker, sm, P1, K1 to the end of the row.
- Row 4 (WS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to the marker, sm, P1, K1 to end of the row.
Continue to work the Irish moss st pattern (the 4 patt row rep above) slipping the marker when you come to it, until the work measures 8 (8.5, 8.5, 9, 9, 9.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with row 3 of patt.
- *Remember to decide where you want to work your buttonhole rows.
Pocket Lining
- Now it is time to cast off the top edge of the pocket.
- Make sure you pull the sts tight when you move from the working needle to the spare needle and back.
- Next row: Work 14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 18) sts in row 4 of patt, then cast off 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts in patt, cont in patt across the second set of sts on the working needle 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts all in the patt.
- Next row: You will work across the first 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts in patt on the working needle, then across the 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 24) sts on the spare needle (the pocket lining sts), then across the second set of sts on the working needle 14 (15, 16, 16, 17, 18) sts all in the patt.
- Now you will cont to work on the right front in the patt (you are now on row 2 of patt) until you have worked 17 inches from the CO edge, ending with row 4 of patt.
- Place a closed st marker on the side seam edge of the last row worked.
- *Please see the pocket lining tutorial for the left front with images if you need help.
Shape Raglan Armhole
- Cont to work in the established patt (the Irish moss st 4 row rep patt).
- Dec 1 st at side seam edge on every alt row until 14 sts rem.
- Mark end of the last row with a closed st marker (at the side seam edge).
Shape Shoulder Section
- K1, P1 to marker, sm, K1, P1 to end, turn the work,
- Cast off 6 sts at the beg of the next row removing the marker, P1, K1 to end on the rem 8 sts.
- Cont to work 1 x 1 ribbing on the remaining 8 sts for 5.25 (5,25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75) inches.
- Cast off in patt.
Sleeves
Cast on 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60) sts.
- Row 1 (RS): P1, *K1, P1: Rep from * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): K the knit sts and P the purl sts to the end of the row.
Rep row 2 until the piece measures 2.5 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row as the last row you work.
Next start working in the Irish moss st (double moss st) pattern as follows:
- Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): *K1, P1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 3 (RS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
- Row 4 (WS): *P1, K1* Rep from * to * to the end of the row.
Continue to work the Irish moss st pattern until the work measures 16 (16, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17) inches from the CO edge, ending with row 4 of patt.
- Mark each end of the last row with a closed st marker.
Shape Raglan Top
- Dec 1 st at each end of the next and every foll 4th row until 42 (44, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts remain, then 1 st at each end of every alt row until 10 sts remain, ending with row 4 of patt.
- Mark each end of the last row with a closed stitch marker.
- Work a further 6 rows in patt.
- Cast off.
Pocket Tops x 2
Cast on 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts
- Row 1 – K1, P1 to the end of the row.
- Row 2 – Knit the knits and purl the purls (K1, P1).
Cont to work in 1×1 ribbing until the piece measures 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9) inches.
- *Please note – you may make the pocket tops longer or shorter depending on your own preference*
- Cast off in rib.
Making Up The Cardigan
For the full step-by-step photo tutorial showing you how to make up this cardigan please click here – How To Make Up Claire’s Blue Cardigan (Tutorial)
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