This chunky cardigan knitting pattern is an easy knit for anyone who is looking to make their first garment.
Knit only in garter stitch, the cardigan has simple shaping through increases and decreases.
This is an oversized super bulky knit that will keep you cozy in the coldest of months!
Scroll down for the free pattern or you can purchase a printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.
The Oversized Knit Cardigan Trend
Oversized cardigans are back year after year – and why not?!
They are comfy, cozy, and perfect for wearing around the house or when you are out and about.
Better than wearing an actual blanket in the cold weather, oversized cardigans can be worn with anything from sweats to jeans.
Make Your Own Oversized Cardigan
The chunky oversized cardigan was knit with Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick yarn in the color graphite
It has three sizes-small, medium and large.
If you want it to be SUPER slouchy and even more like a blanket, you could always make it in a size up.
A Cozy Long Cardigan Sweater
The long cardigan sweater pattern uses garter stitch, in a really simple way to create the body of the fabric.
Through increases and decreases, you will shape the back, left front, right front, and collar.
The separate pieces are knit flat and then seamed together to create the garment.
A Chunky Knit Cardigan For Advanced Knitters
As well as being super comfy to wear, this chunky cardigan is a great project for any advanced knitters looking for something to make for yourself on a weekend.
The cardigan is really warm and can be worn around the house in the cold weather, for collecting the firewood or wherever else you want to go.
I wore this on a recent trip to Agios Athanasios, a beautiful place in the mountains in mainland Greece, staying at a lovely traditional-style guesthouse – Guesthouse Papastoikou.
A Long Cardigan That Can Easily Be Adjusted
I wanted to make this cardigan in a dark color, choosing to make the length long, so that it was really cozy and comfy to lounge around in.
Lying on the sofa, drinking coffee, knitting, and watching Netflix with the fire on is made even better when you are wearing something that wraps you up like a blanket!
You could adjust the length, as you may want the cardigan to be shorter or longer depending on your height.
This would mean working more or fewer rows for the back piece, left front, and right front.
More Free Knitting Patterns
If you are new to knitting and want to learn how to knit there are many easy and free patterns on my website, just take a look at my women’s knitting pattern library, with patterns for women, there are also sections for men, baby, kids, pets and the home.
You may also enjoy these posts –
- Rainbow Cardigan Knitting Pattern
- Cotton Comfort Cardigan Pattern
- Cardigan Knitting Pattern (Stay Home)
Chunky Cardigan Pattern
Purchase the printable, ad-free pattern here.
Skill Level – Easy
Notes
- The pattern is written for all sizes starting with the small size – with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.
- To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
- The cardigan is worked in 5 pieces: Back, 2 Fronts, and 2 Sleeves.
- Each piece is worked in garter stitch from the lower edge upwards.
- A circular needle can be used to accommodate the number of stitches.
- If you use circular needles work back and forth as if working on straight needles.
- You can add more rows to make the length of the cardigan longer or fewer rows to make it shorter.
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- Please give pattern credit to Louise Bollanos or tag @handylittleme.
- For the copyright T&C’s please read my Terms of Use.
Sizes + Measurements
- S (Small), M (Medium) L (Large)
- The first number of stitches is for the small size, the following numbers in brackets are for the medium and large sizes.
- For example – cast on 27 – S / 29 -M / 31 -L sts.
To fit sizes –
- Small – 34 – 36 inches / 86 – 91 cm.
- Medium – 38 – 40 inches / 97 – 102 cm.
- Large – 42 – 44 inches / 107 – 112 cm.
Actual Measurement – Approx
- 50 inches/127cm.
- 54 inches/138cm.
- 58 inches/148cm.
Side seam – All sizes = 16 inches/41cm.
Length
- Small – 30 inches/77 cm.
- Medium – 31 inches/79cm.
- Large – 32 inches/82cm.
Sleeve Seam with the cuff turned back = 16.25 inches/41.5cm.
Gauge – 9 sts and 18 rows, to 10 x 10 cm/4×4 inches in garter stitch using size 10mm (US 15) knitting needles.
The supplies you need
Yarn
- 9 (10, 11) balls of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick Yarn (170g/106yds/97m) in Graphite (151).
- Total yardage – S – 954 / M – 1,060 / L – 1, 166
- Total meters – S – 873 / M – 970 / L – 1,067
- Total grams – S – 1,530 / M – 1,700 / 1,870
- Yarn weight – Super Bulky 06/super chunky/14 ply
- Yarn weight guide
Abbreviations / Knitting Abbreviations List
- Alt – Alternate
- Beg – Beginning
- CO – Cast on
- Cont – Continue
- Foll – Following
- Garter st – knit every row
- K – Knit
- M1 – Make one stitch (increase)
- K2tog – Knit two stitches together (decrease)
- Sts – Stitches
- Rep – Repeat
- RS – Right side
- WS – Wrong side
- W+T – Wrap and turn – Short row shaping
Pattern Instructions
Back
- Cast on 50 (54, 58) sts and beg with a wrong side row, work 69 rows in garter stitch.
- Mark each end of the last row with a stitch marker, for the side seams.
- Work in garter stitch for a further 44 (46, 48) rows.
Shape the shoulders
- Cast off 4 (4, 3) sts at the beg of each of the next 2 rows.
- 3 (4, 3) sts at the beg of each of the following 2 rows.
- Then cast off 3 (3, 4) sts at the beg of each of the next 8 rows.
- Cast off the rem 12 (14, 14) sts.
Left Front
- Cast on 27 (29, 31) sts and beg with a wrong side row, work 59 rows in garter stitch.
Shape the collar
- Row 1 – K to last 3 sts, M1, K3. 28 (30, 32) sts.
- Rows 2-8 – Work a further 7 rows in garter stitch.
- Row 9 – Rep row 1.
- Row 10 – K 1 row.
- Mark the end of the last row – to show the end of the side seam.
- Rows 11-16 – Work a further 6 rows in garter stitch.
- Row 17 – K to last 3 sts, M1, K3.
- Rows 18-24 – Work a further 7 rows in garter st.
- Rep the last 8 rows (17-24) twice more, then row 1 again. 33 (35, 37) sts.
- Work a further 2 (4, 6) rows in garter stitch, ending with a RS row.
Shape the extra length on the collar
- 1st and 2nd turning rows: K10, for 1st row, W+T, then K to end for 2nd row.
- Work 2 rows in garter stitch across all sts.
- Rep the last 4 rows, 3 times more.
- Work 3 rows in garter st.
Shape the shoulder
- Cast off 4 (4, 3) sts at the beg of the next row.
- Cast off 3 (4, 3) sts on the foll alternate row, then 3 (3, 4) sts on the next 4 alternate rows. 14 (15, 15) sts.
- Work a further 7 (9, 9) rows in garter st for the back of the neck extension.
- Cast off.
Right Front
- Cast on 27 (29, 31) sts and beg with a wrong side row, work 59 rows in garter stitch.
To shape the collar
- Row 1 – K3, M1, K to end of the row.
- Rows 2 – 8 – Work 7 rows in garter st.
- Row 9 – Rep row 1.
- Row 10 – K 1 row.
- Mark the beg of the last row – to show the end of the side seam.
- Rows 11 -16 – Work a further 6 rows in garter st.
- Row 17 – K3, M1, K to end of row.
- Rows 18 – 24 – Work a further 7 rows in garter st.
- Rep the last 8 rows twice more and then row 1 again – 33 (35, 37) sts.
- Work a further 3 (5, 7) rows ending with a WS row.
Shape the extra length on the collar
- 1st and 2nd turning rows: K10, for 1st row, W+T, then K to end for 2nd row.
- Work 2 rows in garter stitch across all sts.
- Rep the last 4 rows, 3 times more.
- Work a further 3 rows in garter st.
Shape the shoulder
- Cast off 4 (4, 3) sts at the beg of the next row.
- 3 (4, 3) sts on the foll alternate row, then 3 (3, 4) sts on the next 4 alternate rows – 14, (15, 15) sts.
- Work a further 6 (8, 8) rows in garter st for the back of the neck extension.
- Cast off.
Sleeves – Make 2
- Cast on 24 (26, 28) sts and beg with a RS row, work 32 rows in garter st.
- Cont in garter st and taking extra sts into garter st as they occur – inc 1 st at each end of the next row and the 8th foll 6th rows. 42 (44, 46) sts.
- Work a further 3 rows in garter st.
- Cast off
Making Up
- Join the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the back neck extensions across the back of the neck, joining the cast on and cast off edges together with an invisible seam.
- Stitch the cast-off edge of sleeves between the markers on the back and fronts.
- Join sleeve seams, reversing the seam for approx 14 rows at the lower edge for fold back. (Both sleeves will have turned over cuffs)
- Join the side seams.
- Fold the collar and cuffs over to the right side.
I love seeing your finished projects!
If you enjoyed making the cardigan, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme.
If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook page and share a photo! I’d love to see your work!
Happy Knitting! xoxo
carol jacks says
Hi been searching and searching for the 8 oversized sweater knitting patterns can you advise
Kind regards
Carol
handylittleme says
Hello, you can find that post here – https://www.handylittleme.com/2017-9-19-8-stylish-ideas-for-your-fall-oversized-knits/ I hope that helps! 🙂
Samantha says
Hi Louise, you say befor shaping is this before the extra length on the collar?
Tks
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Samantha, before shaping is when you knit up to shaping the collar on the fronts and on the back piece before you start to shape the shoulders. I hope that helps! 🙂
Kasthuri Krishnan says
Hi, Thank you for the beautiful pattern, I completed it and trying to sew everything together. Could not
Follow the neck extension sewing together. Is there a video of yours available. Also, can I use crochet stitch
And join all pcs or needle?
Once again, I want to thank you for this pattern, I made it for my Grand daughter.
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Kasthuri,
The neck extension needs to be stitched up at the back of the neck.
You will see those two seams at the very top of each front piece when you have seamed up your fronts to the back.
There is an image in the post to show you what that looks like with the collar turned up.
You will seam the neck extensions with the neat edge on top, so when the collar lies flat you only see the right side/neat edge.
You can crochet the pieces together if you wish, some people have done this with success. Others prefer to use the mattress stitch.
I hope that helps and thanks so much for your kind words, I’m happy you enjoyed the pattern.
Louise 🙂
Cindy Kanwar says
I am finishing up the last sleeve. THIS has been a joy to knit. Question about blocking. Do you suggest blocking? I am using the Lion’s Brand Thick and Quick yarn. If you suggest it – do it before or after I put it all together? What do you usually do?
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Cindy, I didn’t block the cardigan, as I felt like it didn’t need it.
With the wool ease thick and quick I would have thought it wouldn’t need blocking as it will have quite a nice heavy drape without it.
But – if you think it needs it, then yes do it.
If you want to do it I would probably block before stitching the pieces together.
I hope that helps and I’m so happy you enjoyed the pattern!
Louise
Cindy Kanwar says
Thanks! Just looking for permission to not do it either! It does not appear to need it. no curling up at edges and all seems to come out the same size.
Cindy Kanwar says
I have another question regarding stitching up the sleeve seam. You say
in the instructions “Join sleeve seams, reversing seam for approx 14 rows at lower edge for fold back.”
Not sure what reversing seam means? I had planned on just stitching the whole seam and folding the sleeve back for a cuff? Thanks for being there to help us!
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Cindy,
Reversing the seam means that when you get to where you want to fold the cuff over – you need to seam from the other side.
This is because when you fold the cuff over you will see a neat seam.
If you don’t do that – you will see the inside seam edge on the right side.
I hope that makes sense!
Louise 🙂
Cindy Kanwar says
Thanks… it makes sense now.. appreciate it. Your patterns think of everything!
Louise Bollanos says
Hi Cindy, no worries, I hope you enjoy wearing your new cardigan!
If you are on Facebook – you can drop a photo in the Handy Little Me Facebook group 🙂
Thanks,
Louise
Riley says
I absolutely love this pattern and am very excited to make this sweater for myself and a friend of mine. I have a couple of questions first the type of yarn my friend wants it out of is a bulky yarn but it’s 270g how many balls of it will I need to make the large size? I have 12 and am hoping that is enough. Secondly I don’t have size 9 knitting needles and can’t find them anywhere that isn’t crazy expensive. Could you do this pattern with the size 8 and just add a little more rows and stitches to make it bigger or should I try and just get the size 9 needles?
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Riley,
To make this pattern as it is – you would have to use the needle sizes stated in the pattern.
If you only use size 8mm (US 11) needles, you will have a tighter knit fabric and the cardigan will not be as oversized or long.
If you want to use that needle size matched with the bulky yarn – you will need around 1,870-2000g for the large size, possibly more, as I have not made the cardigan using this weight of yarn and the smaller needle size.
Let me know how it goes!
Louise
Jean Bernard says
In the shoulder shaping for the front panels, when you say decrease on alternate rows do I knit after the first row of decrease and then do the 3rd row as a decrease? Or do I decrease at the beginning of the second every row?
Louise Bollanos says
Hello Jean,
Decrease 4 (4/3) stitches at the beg of next row, refers to decreasing sts at each end of the next row (this is a right side row).
Then work the next row (the wrong side row) without decreasing.
Then on the next right-side row, you would do another decrease on each end again – 3 (4/3) sts on every following alternate row).
I hope that helps!
Louise