Chunky Cable Knit Sweater Pattern

In this post, you will see a chunky cable knit sweater pattern.

This thick sweater is a great project for knitters who love cables!

Scroll down to view the free pattern or you can grab the printer-friendly ad-free PDF here.

A Cozy Chunky Cable Knit Sweater

This forest green-colored sweater has a simple cable knit design that can be worn again and again during the autumn/winter.

Pair it with skinny jeans, your favorite pair of boots, and a hat while going for a coffee with friends, walking your dog, or for a walk around town.

Oversized and comfy, this sweater will feel extra cozy when there is a chill in the air.

The Yarn I Used

I made the sweater using The Wool (from We Are Knitters) in the color Forest Green.

This yarn color is perfect for fall, but they also have lots of other great colors to choose from.

The yarn weight is jumbo yarn/18-20 ply.

Chunky Cable Knit Sweater Pattern

Grab your inexpensive ad-free, PDF printable pattern in my shop here.

Notes

This sweater knitting pattern will work up into the perfect slouchy warm knit you need to stay cozy!

The sweater features a large cable design on the front, with ribbed cuffs, bell sleeves, and a high ribbed collar.

If you like this pattern, you may also enjoy this oversized chunky knit sweater pattern.

And…if you prefer a cardigan, you may like this chunky cardigan knitting pattern.

You can also grab the beret pattern here – Slouchy Knit Beret Pattern {The Bordeaux}

Copyright Info

• Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern. 
• If you wish to share this pattern, link to the pattern page only.
• You may sell items produced using this pattern.
• Do NOT use copyrighted photos for your product listing.
• For the copyright T&C please read my Terms of Use.

Skill Level – Easy

Size Information/Measurements

Adult/Woman – S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

Bust Size

To fit bust size as follows:

• S – 32 inches/81.28 cm
• M – 36 inches/ 91.44 cm
• L – 40 inches/ 101.6 cm
• XL – 44 inches/111.76 cm
• 2XL – 48 inches/ 121.92 cm
• 3XL – 52 inches/ 132.08 cm

Waist/Bust (Around)

• S – 46 inches/ 116.84 cm
• M – 50 inches/ 127 cm
• L – 54 inches/ 137.16 cm
• XL – 58 inches/ 147.32 cm
• 2XL – 62 inches/ 157.48 cm
• 3XL – 66 inches/ 167.64 cm

Length (straight – shoulder to hem)

• S – 27 inches/ 68.58 cm
• M – 27.5 inches/ 69.85 cm
• L – 28 inches/ 71.12 cm
• XL – 28.5 inches/ 72.39 cm
• 2XL – 29 inches/ 73.66 cm
• 3XL – 29.5 inches/ 74.93 cm

Sleeve Length (Underarm to cuff)

• S – 15.5 inches/ 39.37 cm
• M – 16 inches/ 40.64 cm
• L – 16.5 inches/ 41.91 cm
• XL – 17 inches/ 43.18 cm
• 2XL – 17.5 inches/ 44.45 cm
• 3XL – 18 inches/ 45.72 cm

Cuff (around)

• S – 10 inches/ 25.4 cm
• M – 11 inches/ 27.94 cm
• L – 11 inches/ 27.94 cm
• XL – 12 inches/ 30.48 cm
• 2XL – 12 inches/ 30.48 cm
• 3XL – 12.5 inches/ 31.75 cm

Notes on sizing

In the photographs, the model is wearing a small size (S – 32 inches/80 cm).

The sweater is very oversized so the small size will also fit a medium-sized person and so on.

There is no need to make a size up if you think your size might be a snug fit.

The pattern is written for all sizes starting with the small size – with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.

To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.

Gauge – 6 sts x 8 rows = 4×4 inches /10×10 cm In stocking stitch – with the 15mm (US 19) needles.

Pattern Notes

• The sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and 2 Sleeves.
• Each piece is worked from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a ribbed lower band.
• Circular needles are used to accommodate the number of stitches.
• Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.

The Supplies You Need…

Yarn

• We Are Knitters – The Wool (200g/87 yds/80m) in Forest Green x 6, (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls.
• Use my code – MGM4VHHAT – for 10 off on your WAK yarn order.
• This is a Jumbo weight yarn/18-20 ply yarn.
• *Please note you could substitute this yarn with Super Bulky/Super Chunky/14 Ply Yarn but it is slightly thinner than the yarn used.
• Remember to match any yarn substitute to the main needle size – 15 mm (US 19) knitting needles.

Needles

• 12mm (US 17) knitting needles.
• 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
• I used my set of interchangeable circular needles and a set of 15mm (US 19) circulars also, as there were many stitches to cast on, and it was easier to use the cables.
• I also used spare cables with end caps to hold spare stitches when needed.

Notions

• Tape measure
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Stitch holders x 3 or spare cables with end caps.

Abbreviations

• Beg = Beginning
• CO = Cast on
• Cont = Continue(ing)
• C6F = (cable 6 front)- slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
• C6B = (cable 6 back) – slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 3, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
• Dec = Decrease (Cast off)
• Foll = Following
• K = Knit
• K2tog = Knit the next 2 stitches together
• M1 = Make one stitch
• P = Purl
• P2tog = Purl the next 2 stitches together
• Rem = Remaining
• Rep = Repeat
• RS = Right side
• St(s) = Stitch(es)
• St, St = Stocking Stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row)
• WS = Wrong side

Stitch Pattern Notes

1 x 1 ribbing = K1, P1 (It is obtained by alternating knit and purl stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row. This means that we make a knit stitch when the previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch when the previous looks like a bump.)

Cast On: even number of stitches.

• Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.

Repeat these two rows.

Sweater Pattern

Back

With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge.

Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.

• Row 1 (RS): Knit to the end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): Purl to the end of the row.

Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan

Still working in stocking stitch…

• Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, K to the end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, P to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.

Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts.

Work in st, st and cont to dec 1 st each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.

End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.

Leave these sts on a spare needle/stitch holder or cable with end caps.

Front

With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge.

Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles and work the following:

• Row 1 (RS): K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), P2, K12, P2, K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).
• Row 2 (WS): P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), K2, P12, K2, P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).
• Row 3 (RS): K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), P2, C6B, C6F, P2, K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).
• Row 4 (WS): P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), K2, P12, K2, P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).
• Row 5 (RS): K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), P2, K12, P2, K10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).
• Row 6 (WS): P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16), K2, P12, K2, P10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 16).

These 6 rows form the cable stitch pattern.

Cont to repeat rows 1 – 6 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape Raglan

Still working in the established cable stitch pattern…

• Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row.
• Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, work in patt to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.

Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.

End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.

• On the next RS row, work in patt for 6 sts, then place the central 8, (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts for the neck onto a stitch holder, then place the remaining 6 sts onto another stitch holder.
• There will be 6 sts on either side of the neck.
• Each side of the neck will now be worked separately.

Shape Neck

Keeping the raglan shaping correct, work the following:

• Row 1: Work in patt to the end of the row.
• Row 2: Work in patt to last 4 sts, P2tog, K2tog twice. (Depending on your rem sts you may have to K2tog twice)
• Row 3: Work in patt to the end of the row.
• Cast off rem 4 sts.

With RS of work facing you – place the 6 sts from the st holder onto the needles and rejoin the yarn for the other side of the neck.

Reverse the shaping as follows:

• Row 1: Work in patt to the end of the row.
• Row 2: K2tog, P2tog, work in patt to the end of the row.(Depending on your rem sts you may have to K2tog twice)
• Row 3: Work in patt to the end of the row.
• Cast off the rem 4 sts.

Left Sleeve

With 12mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 14 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge.

Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.

• Row 1 (RS): *K1, M1 – rep to the end of the row. 27 (31, 31, 31, 35, 35)
• Row 2 (WS): Purl to the end of the row.
• Row 3 (RS): Knit to the end of the row.

Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 2 and 3 until the piece measures 15.5 (16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

*At this point check that you are happy with the length of the sleeves – they should start just below the underarm. If you need to make them longer, work more rows, but if you prefer a shorter sleeve you may need to pull out (frog) a few rows.

Shape Raglan

• Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, K to end. 25 (29, 29, 28, 32, 31)
• Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, P to end. 23 (27, 27, 25, 29, 27)
• Row 3: Dec row (RS): Cast off 1 st, K to last 2 sts, cast off 1 st. (2 sts decreased)
• Row 4: (WS): P to the end of the row.
• Rep rows 3 and 4 until you have 7 sts.
• Cast off 4 sts – K to the end of the row.
• P to the end of the row.
• Cast off rem 3 sts.

Right Sleeve

Work as for the left sleeve until you have 7 sts left on the needle.

Shape Raglan

• K 3 sts, cast off the rem 4 sts, break yarn, and secure.
• Rejoin the yarn to the first stitch and P to the end of the row.
• Cast off rem 3 sts.

Making Up

Tutorial

You can find a mattress stitch tutorial here. – Mattress Stitch – How To Seam Knitting

Tip

It’s best to work on a large surface (like a dining table or desk) so you can lie the pieces out flat and see where you will be seaming.

Step 1

Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 2

Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 3

Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.

Make sure the right sides are facing you.

Step 4

Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.

With the RS of work facing you, use the 12mm (US 17) knitting needles and do the following:

• Pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
• Then K across the 8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts from the stitch holder at center front.
• Then pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
• Finally K across the 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts from spare stitch holder at the back.

Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.

Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 6 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.

Cast off the rem sts in rib.

Step 5

Join rem back raglan seam and cont up the neck ribbing.

Step 6

Join side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.

Then you can weave in any leftover loose ends.

I also like to use a lint roller to clean the garment afterward in case of any fluff, pet hair, etc!

Could you share your work with us?

I love seeing your finished projects.

If you enjoyed making the sweater, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, be sure to tag me @handylittleme or #handylittleme to be featured.

If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook page and share a photo.  

I’d love to see your work.

Happy Knitting!