Chunky Turtleneck Sweater Knitting Pattern
THIS ARTICLE CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS THAT SUPPORT HANDY LITTLE ME CONTENT AND FREE PATTERNS.This chunky turtleneck sweater knitting pattern is the perfect cozy make for cold-weather days.
Worked in a soft, bulky yarn, this sweater has a relaxed, oversized feel with a warm folded turtleneck and simple shaping, making it a great project if you want to knit a wardrobe staple you’ll reach for again and again.
Pair it with jeans, leggings, or layer it over a dress for an easy, handmade piece that feels both comfortable and classic.
The full pattern is free below, or you can purchase the ad-free printable PDF here.

Before You Get Started
- Before you cast on, it’s helpful to choose your size and think about the fit you’d like.
- This chunky turtleneck sweater is designed with an oversized shape and plenty of positive ease, making it a cozy layering piece for cold-weather days.
- The sweater is knit using jumbo or super bulky yarn and larger needles, so it works up quickly compared to finer-weight garments.
- You’ll need to be comfortable with basic knitting techniques, working simple shaping, sewing pieces together, and picking up stitches for the turtleneck.
- You can keep the sweater classic in a neutral shade or choose a bold color for a statement, handmade piece.

Choosing Your Yarn
For this sweater, I used Crazy Sexy Wool from Wool and The Gang in the shade Confetti Tweed.
This particular color may now be discontinued, but there are still plenty of beautiful shades available if you want to create a similar chunky, cozy look.
The yarn is a jumbo-weight yarn — also known as 18–20 ply — which gives the sweater its thick texture, warmth, and quick-knit finish.

Chunky Turtleneck Sweater Knitting Pattern
Notes
Skill Level – Easy (advanced beginners)
This sweater knitting pattern will work up into the perfect slouchy warm knit you need to stay cozy!
The sweater is knit in stockinette stitch for the main body with ribbed cuffs and a ribbed collar.
Copyright Info
- Please do not copy, sell, redistribute, or republish this pattern.
- If you wish to share this pattern, please provide a link to the pattern page only.
- You may sell items produced using this pattern.
- Do NOT use copyrighted photos for your product listing.
- For the copyright T&C, please read my Terms of Use.

Size Information
Adult/Woman – S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
Bust Size
To fit bust size as follows:
- S – 32 inches/81.28 cm
- M – 36 inches/ 91.44 cm
- L – 40 inches/ 101.6 cm
- XL – 44 inches/111.76 cm
- 2XL – 48 inches/ 121.92 cm
- 3XL – 52 inches/ 132.08 cm
Waist/Bust (Around)
- S – 46 inches/ 116.84 cm
- M – 50 inches/ 127 cm
- L – 54 inches/ 137.16 cm
- XL – 58 inches/ 147.32 cm
- 2XL – 62 inches/ 157.48 cm
- 3XL – 66 inches/ 167.64 cm
Length (Straight – Shoulder to hem)
- S – 27 inches/ 68.58 cm
- M – 27.5 inches/ 69.85 cm
- L – 28 inches/ 71.12 cm
- XL – 28.5 inches/ 72.39 cm
- 2XL – 29 inches/ 73.66 cm
- 3XL – 29.5 inches/ 74.93 cm
Sleeve Length (Underarm to cuff)
- S – 15.5 inches/ 39.37 cm
- M – 16 inches/ 40.64 cm
- L – 16.5 inches/ 41.91 cm
- XL – 17 inches/ 43.18 cm
- 2XL – 17.5 inches/ 44.45 cm
- 3XL – 18 inches/ 45.72 cm
Cuff (Around)
- S – 10 inches/ 25.4 cm
- M – 11 inches/ 27.94 cm
- L – 11 inches/ 27.94 cm
- XL – 12 inches/ 30.48 cm
- 2XL – 12 inches/ 30.48 cm
- 3XL – 12.5 inches/ 31.75 cm
Notes on sizing
The model is wearing a small size (S – 32 inches/80 cm) in the photographs.
The sweater is very oversized, so the small size will also fit a medium-sized person.
There is no need to size up if you think your size might be a snug fit.
The pattern is written for all sizes, starting with the small size, and with changes for different sizes listed in all necessary places.
To follow the pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
Gauge
6 sts x 8 rows = 4×4 inches /10×10 cm In stocking stitch – with the 15 mm (US 19) needles.

Pattern Notes
- The sweater is worked in 4 pieces: Back, Front, and 2 Sleeves.
- Each piece is worked in one stitch pattern (stocking stitch) from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a ribbed lower band.
- Circular needles are used to accommodate the number of stitches.
- Work back and forth on the circular needle as if working on straight needles.

Materials
Yarn
- Wool And The Gang – Crazy Sexy Wool (200g/87 yds/80m) in Confetti Tweed x 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) balls.
- This is a Jumbo weight yarn/18-20 ply yarn.
- *Please note you could substitute this yarn with Super Bulky/Super Chunky/14 Ply Yarn, but it is slightly thinner than the yarn used.
- Remember to match any yarn substitute to the main needle size – 15 mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Yarn substitute – Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool or The Wool from We Are Knitters.
- Learn how to substitute yarn here – How To Substitute Yarn In A Knitting Pattern
Needles
- 12 mm (US 17) knitting needles.
- 15 mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- I used my set of interchangeable circular needles and a set of 15 mm (US 19) circulars, as there were many stitches to cast on, and it was easier to use the cables.
- I also used spare cables with end caps to hold spare stitches when needed.
Notions
- Tape measure
- Darning needle
- Scissors
- Stitch holders x 3 or spare cables with end caps.

Abbreviations
- Beg = Beginning
- CO = Cast on
- Cont = Continue(ing)
- Dec = Decrease (Cast off)
- Foll = Following
- K = Knit
- K2tog = Knit the next two stitches together
- KFB = Knit into the front and back of the stitch (increase)
- P = Purl
- P2tog = Purl the next two stitches together
- Rem = Remaining
- Rep = Repeat
- RS = Right side
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- St, St = Stocking Stitch (K 1 row, P 1 row)
- WS = Wrong side
Stitch pattern notes
1 x 1 ribbing = K1, P1 (It is obtained by alternating knit and purl stitches in one row and “knitting by pattern” in every next row.
This means that we make a knit stitch when the previous row stitch looks like V and make a purl stitch when the previous looks like a bump.)
Cast On: an even number of stitches.
- Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): (k1, p1) till the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows.
Print & Stitch
Purchase the ad-free PDF pattern
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Sweater Pattern Instructions
This pattern is written as a free knit pattern for advanced beginner knitters, combining simplicity with just enough challenge to keep things interesting.
Knit flat (back and forth) primarily on circular knitting needles, making it an easy project for those looking to tackle their first sweater.
Choosing the right size is made easy with clear instructions and options for adjusting fit.
Whether you’re drawn to chunky knit sweater patterns or experimenting with different patterns, this turtleneck design is a versatile addition to any handmade wardrobe.

Back
With 12 mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15 mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Row 1 (RS): Knit to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Purl to the end of the row.
Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
Still working in stocking stitch…
- Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, K to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, P to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.
Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts.
Work in st, st and cont to dec 1 st each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.
End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.
Leave these sts on a spare needle/stitch holder or cable with end caps.


Front
With 12 mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 48) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15 mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Row 1 (RS): Knit to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Purl to the end of the row.
Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5) inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Raglan
Still working in stocking stitch…
- Row 1 (RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, K to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of the row, P to the end of the row. 32 (34, 36, 36, 38, 40)sts.
Then dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 28 (30, 32, 32, 34, 36) sts
Work in st, st and cont to dec 1 st at each end of every foll 3rd row until 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain.
End on a WS row, so that the next section starts on an RS row.
- On the next RS row, K 6 sts, then place the central 8, (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts for the neck onto a stitch holder, then place the remaining 6 sts onto another stitch holder.
- There will be 6 sts on either side of the neck.
- Each side of the neck will now be worked separately.
Shape Neck
Keeping the raglan shaping correct, work the following:
- Row 1: P 1 row.
- Row 2: K to last 4 sts, K2tog twice.
- Row 3: P1 row.
- Cast off rem 4 sts.
With RS of work facing you – place the 6 sts from the st holder onto the needles and rejoin the yarn for the other side of the neck.
Reverse the shaping as follows:
- Row 1: P1 row.
- Row 2: K2tog twice, K to the end of the row.
- Row 3: P to the end of the row.
- Cast off the rem 4 sts.

Left Sleeve
With 12 mm (US 17) knitting needles CO 14 (16, 16, 16, 18, 18) sts.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until the piece measures 2 inches from the CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 15mm (US 19) knitting needles.
- Row 1 (RS): Knit to the end of the row.
- Row 2 (WS): Purl to the end of the row.
Cont to work in stocking stitch, repeating rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 4 inches from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Shape Sleeves
Row 1 (RS): KFB into the first and last stitch of the row. (2 sts increased)
Rep row 1 (increasing 2 sts) on every foll 8th (6th, 6th, 4th, 4th, 4th) row, 3 (3, 3, 4, 5, 5) more times. 22 (24, 24, 26, 30, 30) sts.
Cont to work in patt until sleeve measures 15.5 (16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches from the CO edge.
*At this point check that you are happy with the length of the sleeves – they should start just below the underarm. If you need to make them longer, work more rows, but if you prefer a shorter sleeve you may need to pull out (frog) a few rows.
Shape Raglan
- Row 1(RS): Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, K to end.
- Row 2: Cast off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the row, P to end.
- Row 3: K to the end of the row.
- Row 4: P to the end of the row.
- Row 5: Dec row (RS): Cast off 1 st, K to last 2 sts, dec 1 st. (2 sts decreased)
- Row 6: (WS): P to the end of the row.
- Rep rows 3-6 until you have 14 sts.
- Now work rows 5-6 only until you have 6 sts.
- Cast off 3 sts – K to the end of the row.
- P to the end of the row.
- Cast off rem 3 sts.

Right Sleeve
Work as for the left sleeve until you have 6 sts left on the needle.
Shape Raglan
- K 3 sts, cast off the rem 3 sts, break yarn, and secure.
- Rejoin the yarn to the first stitch and P to the end of the row.
- Cast off rem 3 sts.

Making Up
You can find a mattress stitch tutorial here – Mattress Stitch – How To Seam Knitting
Tip
It’s best to work on a large surface (like a dining table or desk) so you can lie the pieces out flat and see where you will be seaming.
Step 1
Seam the back right raglan sleeve seam using the mattress stitch. Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 2
Join the right sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 3
Join the left raglan sleeve seam to the front raglan seam using the mattress stitch.
Make sure the right sides are facing you.
Step 4
Leave the left-back raglan seam open for now.
With the RS of the work facing you, use the 12mm (US 17) knitting needles and do the following:
- Pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
- Then K across the 8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14) sts from the stitch holder at the center front.
- Then pick up and knit 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) sts from the side front neck edge and top of the sleeve.
- Finally, K across the 20 (22, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts from the spare stitch holder at the back.
Please note the neck is now worked back and forth – not joined in the round.
Work in 1 x 1 ribbing (K1, P1) for 6 inches (or your desired length), ending with a WS row.
Cast off the rem sts in rib.
Step 5
Join rem back raglan seam and cont up the neck ribbing.
Step 6
Join side and sleeve seams using the mattress stitch.
Then, you can weave in any leftover loose ends.
I also like to use a lint roller to clean the garment afterward in case of any fluff, pet hair, etc!

Share Your Make
I love seeing your finished projects on social media.
If you enjoyed making the quick knit oversized sweater, I’d love to see yours on Instagram, tag me @handylittleme or #handylittleme to be featured.
If you are on Facebook, stop over to the handylittleme Facebook group and share a photo.
I’d love to see your work.
Happy Knitting!
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Hi Louise,
Just wondering which is the wool brank . shade the model for this is wearing, cannot seem to find it in any of the links you provided – it’s a wonderful site, and thank you very much; delighted to find –
Hello Tricia,
The yarn I used for this sweater was Crazy Sexy Wool from Wool and The Gang in the color Confetti.
I think they discontinued this color but they have many other colors to choose from, including greys.
You could also have a look at The Wool from We Are Knitters which is a very similar yarn.
I hope that helps and happy knitting!
Louise
Hello, I have knit your patterns before and I really like your designs. I have 9 x 80g balls of Stylecraft Life Super Chunky and would love to knit the Cozy Turtleneck Sweater, it is the nicest pattern I have found. I understand the pattern uses Jumbo and I have scrambled my brains trying to work out how to substitute the yarn and adjust the pattern instructions. Please can you help? I would really appreciate your advice. Many thanks.
Regards, Susan.
Hi Susan, thank you so much — I’m really happy you’ve enjoyed my patterns!
You can try Stylecraft Life Super Chunky, but because this design was written for jumbo yarn, the most important thing is to meet the pattern gauge with a swatch.
If you can match the gauge, you can follow the pattern as written.
I’m sorry, but I can’t work out or rewrite the pattern measurements/instructions for a different yarn thickness.
If your swatch doesn’t match gauge, you’d need to change needle size (if possible) or choose the size that best matches your finished measurements.
If you share your swatch result (stitches per 10cm) and the size you’re aiming for, I’m happy to advise which direction to go with your needles/size.
Hi Louise,
Thank you for your reply. I have decided to save my sanity and have found a pattern to suit the wool weight I already have but I will definitely aim to knit this pattern another time. Thank you again.